MDS2106

Sold to Bigboybanshee

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Thanks Climb

thank you ,

Never recieved payment, Reeds and cages back up for sale.....

good seller, shipped very fast

I will also say 13-41 along with pro wedge IIs or 4-snows and you will be kickin some ass...The gearing drop in the front will help with the hole shot and the snows - wedges will swell up to about 25" which cuts down on shifting....

You can change the seal without removing the shift shaft. Drain the trans. fluid and remove the left foot peg, shifter and stator cover , make sure the shift shaft is really clean,screw a couple of drywall screws a couple of rounds into the old seal and pull it will pop right out .Grease up the new seal slide it on and push it into place...

Does anyone run their bike without the clip/plate behind the clutch basket?It seems like it would be alot quicker to split the cases without having to remove the clutch assembly.Does the clip/plate serve as a bearing stop or does it hold the cases together?The mainshaft bearing has a clip to keep it from walking.I guess that other clip is secondary protection????

Mine does...

I think it would help for either.Try it and you will be suprised on the difference on take off and overall traction.

No it won't hurt anything to leave the oil out. That cover looks really good !!!

Bansh-eman,I was letting air out, thinking that more surface area against the sand would give me more traction,Then I read a couple of posts on Planet Sands about adding air in the haulers causes the paddles to be stiffer and not fold over as easily.It really works, even at The Clash of the titans in Sicily Island where the sand is the fluffiest I have ever seen, it picked up the 300' time on my son's bike.

When I had the same setup except for reeds I ran 290 mains at sea level... mark

By varying the position of the spring adjuster on the shock body,spring preload can be changed to best suit rider weight and riding conditions...

It really depends on the sand conditions. We have went as low as 3# and as high as 8 or 9# Contrary to what people believe, with the haulers you get better traction with more air pressure.

Climb,make sure you are using a good guage sometimes the cheap ones give a false reading.I would use the 21cc domes you already have. After my last rebuild, with the 21cc domes I was at 150# on each cylinder.If your compression is actually 110 you are getting close to a rebuild.

The crows foot is like an open end wrench so you can torqe the cylinder base nuts.You cannot get the socket on all of the nuts so you need the crows foot .If you want to torque the cylinder base nuts you will need a crows foot,if you choose to just tighten the nuts with a box end wrench you donot need one.... Mark

I ran across these on e-bay awhile back. Might be worth a try while the joint is still good... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...sspagenameZWD1V

I just snug up the cylinder base nuts with a wrench,After first heat cycle when I retorque the head i also check to make sure the cylinder nuts are still good and snug.You can get by without the crowsfoot but you definately need the clymer manuel!!! crows foot wrench set http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...amp;ProdID=4718 clymer manuel http://cgi.ebay.com/Clymer-Yamaha-Yfz350-B...VQQcmdZViewItem

Between 310 to 330 mains is probably where you will end up..

sold pending payment....

Sent a pm to you Fracas

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