KEVPOPPAPUMP

Yup 2wd aired down is fine! It is 10X better than my 4wd that has hubs with a mind of their own.

I have the Toomey 2:1 air filter setup and have been using metal wire to wrap around the Outerwears so the hot pipes don't burn holes in it. Problem is the Outerwears is getting saturated with filter oil really quickly since the wire presses it against the filter. Its completely covered/half clogged in sand dust in just a few rides. I got some automotive heater hose (buy by the foot kind) and wrapped/hose clamped around the stinger portion that would burn the Outerwears. QUESTION IS: Will automotive heater hose withstand the heat without melting onto ruining my crome stingers? I won't be able to know until T-Day in Glamis and that would suck to find out the hard way.

That was probably part of the complete EVOLUTION BAND power package

The adjuster on the pearch was all the way in, however, there was no slack so that must have been the problem. No matter how much I adjusted stuff, I could not get any slack in the cable to be felt in the lever but thought it would be alright. I was wrong. Suppose to have like 1/4" slack right? I do use ATF Type F and I did the leakdown test already.

The adjuster on the lever was all the way in. I did the job myself so I might have held the arm with a screwdriver or something while moving the screw but don't remember for sure. I did follow the Clymers manual though but sure screwed up somewhere.

I adjusted it like 3x before finally putting on the cover. The adjuster was in all the way fully clockwise at the lever. At the adjuster screw on the pressure plate, I forget which way the adjuster was to go but it was basically as far is could go. There was no loose play in the cable to be felt in the lever no matter how much I adjusted it. The arrow went so slightly past the arrow but I thought it would be alright. WELL, obivously it wasn't

Dan has his own extreme clutch but he said it is for drag racing and might be too stiff for some people. He recommended the Barnette or EBC so I think I'll try the EBC EP Race Kevlar kit.

I can't bring myself to order another Barnette Dirt Digger clutch so I think maybe this time around I will order the EBC Kevlar clutch kit once Rocky Mountain gets it in stock. I did hear some sort of negative about this kit. Something about Kevlar ruining the basket or was it only on a billet basket? As for the jetting, once I get this clutch issue done with, I'll toss in the 32.5 pilots since I'm already at 30 with one turn out. While I'm waiting on parts, I'll relocate my coolant overflow to the front. At least do something productive to this stubborn Shee!

Well I popped my clutch cover off and found my brand new Barnette Dirt Digger clutch worn to hell. The little ridges on the friction plate are nearly non existent now and the metal plates have burn marks on opposite ends. WTF? I torqued the spring bolts in sequence and steps as well as pre-soaked all the clutch parts like the manual stated as well as aligned the clutch arm arrows. Could it be the ATF Type F that I've been using since day 1? The usual cherry red fluid was burnt and looking like grape juice. Anyone have any reccomendations on a clutch to replace my Barnette Dirt Digger?

I know I should've listed all the details of what I already tried when tuning out in Glamis but didn't want to write a long novel but: - I originally started with the stock needles and it ran so fat around half throttle that adjustment went on till it couldn't be leaned out anymore (c-clip on 1st pos. or top of needle). I paid its price in GOLD for the DYNOJET needles at vendor row in Glamis because I was out of ideas on fixing up the midrange. It is better than stock but still not what should be normal IMHO. - If I go any smaller on the pilots, it runs too lean to get the quad moving in 1st. With this 30 pilot and 1 turn out, throttle starting out is perfect. I talked to Dan and he believes its the clutch not holding like SDD did already mention. I will check it out but that doesn't seem right to me since 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears seem flat (i.e. screams but still cant hear the engine hitting power band) even though quad is moving, just not fast. Plus when I installed the Dirt Digger clutch, I triple checked the clutch setting. If anything, a buddy said he'll give me 3k for my F'ed up Banshee but I'd rather not go that route eventhough frustration makes me act on bad decisions.

Stock setup so 14 in front and whatevers stock in rear.

Nah, I installed a Barnett Dirt Digger Clutch kit during the rebuild and it grabs fine. I did play with the pilot screws and that didn't help either.

Just got back from the most dissapointing trip to Glamis ever. Everthing out there destroyed me from YFZ 450s, Raptors, and piped Banshees. Here are the mods: Patriot Duner Port, welded crank, shaved head, Delta V-Force 2's, Toomey T5's, Toomey 2:1 filter, +4 timing, TORS removed, Dynojet needles, 340 main, 30 pilot, and 140-145 psi compression. Here are the problems: 1st gear pulls like mad, then 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, all feel flat and exactly the same. You would swear your in the same gear from 2nd-4th. The engine is screaming and the quad ain't going like is should. Then 5th and 6th gear the quad pulls really hard like it should. Plugs look darker tan with 360 mains and get lighter shades of tan down to the current 340 main. There is also a flogging stuttering problem form 0 - a little over 1/2 throttle. Sometimes in 1st gear the engine will loose power, start flogging, and die. I tried leaning out the needles and no help at all. I emailed Dan @ Patriot but I know he's busy and I need to get this thing moving by Turkey Day in Glamis.

The Clymers manual states to warm up the engine to normal operating temperature then do compression check by kicking till the gauge stops going any higher.

There are so many different places to stay while in Glamis. It all depends what kind of weekend you go on. If it is a normal non-holiday weekend you should have no problem staying on the harder grounds of Gecko Road right off the highway. During holidays, Gecko Rd and Vendor Flatts get pretty full quick so you would prolly have to find a spot in one of the washes. Key thing is if you like it mello, check out your neighbors before setting up camp. Holiday weekends bring out the thug life gangstas. Camping next to them will only have the BLM sitting around your camp daily. MOST IMPORTANTLY: now more than ever, buy a permit from the machine or BLM station first thing. Setting up camp first then buying the permit after will get you a ticket now! I have never been to the other side of Glamis so I couldn't tell you about Buttercup.

Bring your full face helmet cause you a gonna get roosted! I'm a ported now with more bling bling! That don't meen shit, it's all about the rider. I will still kick your ass!!!!!!!! No you won't!!!! I've been taking private Banshee riding lessons

Bring your full face helmet cause you a gonna get roosted! I'm a ported now with more bling bling!

I've seen these things before but never really seen or heard actual results. It's hard to believe that an obstruction in the intake could make power. In a car engine it has shown to be pretty useless, i.e. Tornado air insert. So at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle you make more power but at WOT wouldn't it just be a minor obstruction?

I previously used Castor 927 up until Patriot did my port work. Dan recommended using a non-synthetic for break in so I used Yamalube 2R for the first tank. Now I picked up a gallon of Torqo GP7 full synthetic, which Dan also recommended. Torqo is readily available from the place I shop at and its pretty darn reasonable for a gallon! He also recommended Motul but that stuff is way too expensive. The guys I ride with use Super M, Castor 927, and Yamalube 2R from what I've seen.

The idle kit is just a gold taper screw with locknut. From what I have experienced, no wrench fits the locknut and if its not tight it'll rattle its way right out of the carb. Its a minor PITA to adjust the idle but maybe someone here will post a tip on idle adjustment with the TORS kit.

Since I have had both the 916 and Alien setup I'll comment on em. The 916 setup looks killer IMHO and the Alien setup looks quality as well. The taillight comment is right on but who cares, you can always get a nice led setup on Ebay if you have a 02+ big brake light Banshee. The performance between the two is unnoticeable. I have yet to hear a better sounding pipe on a Banshee than the DMC. They have awesome mid power but not as much on top compared to my T5's

No I have never heard of Soledad Canyon in Canyon Country but it sounds like one the now burned spots. How is the riding there and yeah please post the directions if you wouldn't mind. I am printing out all the directions so when I spontaneously choose to go ride I can know how to get there. Thanks for that Blue Duece, that sounds like an awesome spot and not too far from me! Is there a charge for entrance and are there any specific hours of operation?

Both Dumont and Octillo are too far to go riding for the day, at least from where I am coming from, the South Bay.

Vito's Performance or Toomey sells them. I have a Vito's and its fine. The only thing I kinda don't like is the idle kit adjuster screws but both brands are the same.

A Banshee might meet the standards with 3 catalytic converters on each pipe