KEVPOPPAPUMP

Well I sold my 02 Patriot Racing Ported Banshee on ebay. I will miss her as Shee was my first. Thank you to everyone here that helped out with all the technical ??'s I posted over the years. At first I was selling the Banshee to get either a YFZ450 or 450R but now am considering getting a bike instead. So it looks like a new CR450F will be on top of my list with a quad following after just for Glamis! See you around!

If you can, get to Harrah's around 11pm every Tuesday and Wednesday night at the Carnival Court (Only Outdoor Bar on the Strip). There you will find Las Vegas's #1 Lounge Singer, Cook E Jarr! Hard Rock is always a nice place to hang out and drink at night. That circle bar sure attracts alot of female talent on weekends! If gambling is your thing, O'Sheas is the awesome hole in the wall hang out. It is the little place next door to the Flamingo Hilton. Since you can't visit gentlemen's clubs, you'll be missing out on Cheetah's and OG. Cheetah's has some world class women!

I was hoping at least $4k Would you guys reccommend Ebay or my local Recycler Classified? Figured I might make some extra cash on an up to 300 mile delivery charge? Shoot if $2k is all I could get, I would just let the dealer bend me over and put 2 hands on my shoulders on a trade in

I am 98% certain on selling the Banshee after one last farewell Glamis trip for her and getting an ugh umm, YFZ450. I am just wondering what I should expect to get on ebay for her. Shee's a 2002 Black/White in great condition with clean plastics: - Fresh complete top end/New bottom end seals - Wiseco .010 over pistons - Patriot Duner Port/matched case port/shaved head, & welded crank - V-Force 2 reeds - Toomey T5's Chrome, billet hangers & collars - Toomey 2:1 airfilter setup - TORS elim. kit - adj. timing plate - new EBC clutch - Gold ATV X-Ring chain - Pro Design billet shifter There is probably more stuff to list but these are the major upgrades to her.

My 02 was super reliable until I decided to mod stuff. More HP = weak parts failing. Bottom line, stock is reliable and modded requires more bullet proofing of weak areas. As of right now, I can't wait to get my Shee up and running so I can sell it. That might change once I ride her again though

So since my ball and rod welding incident, I ordered the Clutch Pressure Plate Thrust Bearing kit (2 washers, 1 pancake bearing) from Vito's. It does not come with any instructions and I am now nearing installation of the kit. Anyone here done or know how to install this kit?????

Cool, thanks boon!

Is there supposed to be a little free play on the gear that is rivited to the clutch basket. If I hold the clutch basket in one hand, I can turn the gear with my other hand about 1/8" back and forth but not very easily. Is this normal???

ok will try

What is the special tool that I need to remove the clutch arm pilot bearing in the top half case? I have been pounding for hours and the race is still not budging. The only thing that I have managed to do is really mess up the clutch arm bore's smooth finish with screwdriver pitts and gouges

Damm all you guys have great rates on ATV insurance. Last time I checked with various agents in Los Angeles, even with a multi-vehicle discount, cheapest was around $850 a year. Progressive wanted more like $1600! I figured, if it got stolen it would probably be cheaper to just buy a new one rather then get raped on insurance. What would they give me for my 02 if it got stolen anyway? Prolly $2500 tops!

That happened to me first time I took off the flywheel with the Motion Pro tool. The threads are soft for a reason. Rather strip the tool or the flywheel itself? Now I make sure the tool threads are as far in as it goes with a channelock. First time was hand tight so the threads ripped off in shreads!

what kind of wax do you use now? I have been using the maxima stuff. I was using the Bel Ray chain guard white stuff until now. It works good but it made my gold chain look white All my buddies use Honda chain lube. It doesn't fling, lasts super long, applies clean, and stays clean after multiple rides. Thumbs up to Honda for an awesome chain lube!

Well, TUSK is advertising in Dirt Bike Magazine about all their parts. All TUSK parts carry a lifetime warranty! Guess you can't go wrong with the clutch kit now huh? Maybe they'll start making chains next!

How in the world do you remove the pilot bearing in the top of the case for the clutch arm lever? I have been pounding away with screwdrivers and punches and have only been able to get the bearings out. The outer race is stuck in there and not budging. Should I just go out and get the pilot bearing removal tool that the Clymer's manual says to use or is there any other way?

1) Applied Racing Ball bearing clutch lever: POS weak stripping adjuster and crappy pearch cover mounting screws that fall out. Also does not accept Motion Pro brand clutch cable at adjuster. 2) White Brothers boost bottle: gets in the way of wiring and constantly rubs wiring so you have to wrap the wires in more electrical tape. 3) Maxima Crystal Clear chain lube: says it is clean and does not fling, BS! It makes the chain look good until you ride in dirt/sand, then it flings on everything imaginable and collects dirt/sand like crazy. 4) Maxima Chain wax: This stuff is so tacky it makes the chain links so tight you'll think something is wrong with the chain. 5) Evolution Powerband: created so much HP that the shift lever, ball, and rod were destroyed

Same problem here so I just bought some $50 Harbor Freight ramps and drive it up and over the humps into the back of the truck. When I go ride there are always others that I ride with to help me load it. I will never buy a compact truck again as long as I own quads. Full size from now on. You should see how loaded this Ranger is when I drive to Glamis for a weekend.

I have both the Barnette springs and the EBC "heavy duty" springs. The Barnette springs are way more stiff. The EBC's are only 10% stiffer over stock. The EBC springs felt like stock at the clutch lever so I used the Barnettes instead. All depends on you application I guess.

I'm pretty sure I wore it out but my buddy was riding it down Olds Hill when it fubared. I assume it was too much unnecessary clutch pull on my part. I already ordered the pancake bearing kit from Vito's. As for the pic of the needle bearing, it looks perfectly fine until you spin it. It makes a serious grinding noise and doesn't spin like it should. The shift forks were also hard to get off and don't move smoothly on the shafts so I did order new shafts hoping it'll solve that problem. It took some serious effort to get the shift forks out.

I am starting to believe that most all name brand clutches (Stock, Barnette, EBC, Alba, Toomey, Vito's. etc.) perform the same providing that heavy duty clutch springs are used. Can anyone prove this theory wrong? Most people here seem to use Barnette with no problems. There are also people that use the Toomey or even stock setup with heavy duty springs with no problems. I bet even with my mods, the Tusk setup with Barnette springs would perform similarly too my EBC race EP Kevlar clutch. Lets see: I paid $143 for the EBC and the Tusk is only $29 w/o springs. I bet 5 Tusk kits would outlast the 1 EBC clutch kit. for the price. I might have to try this

Well I learned why not to over do it with the case sealant. Took damm near an hour of pounding to get the cases split. It seems that along with the heat that built up from the ball and rod, the needle bearing on the end of the countershaft (shaft that ball/rod are in) is shot. The ball and rod came out with a little tapping with a punch and mallet. The end of the rod that moves the arm is mushroomed slightly.

I am running the 8 plate EBC Kevlar Racer EP clutch setup. It seems as though the steel plates are thinner than stock specifications to make up for the extra friction plate. When I put only 7 plates on there, the pressure plate was too far into the basket or at least more than the pics in the Clymers showed. The clutch arm arrows seemed to adjust just fine with the 8 Plates so thats what I went with. I use about 1.8 quarts of ATF Type F in the trannie. Maybe now I'll start using 2 quarts. The guys I ride with told me to run stock plates with the o-rings and Barnette springs. I've already spent $235 on 2 clutches in 1 month so I'm not to keen on spending more on another clutch.

Cool I'll post the results when the job is done. My buddy has all sorts of air tools and specialty tools so maybe I'll ask him to give a brother a hand

Well I have an 18v cordless 1/2 inch chuck drill or can use my buddies air drill. Would that do or you talking about a drill press found at machine shops? As far as slop goes: If I hold the basket and try to turn the gear, it'll move about 1/4 inch with some strong hand effort. Is this the slop you are talking about? If I pay the $189 from Rocky Mountain, I don't want to have to pay another hundo to a machine shop guy to put the gear on. Sorry for the millions of ???'s I've been asking.

I special ordered the pancake bearing and washer kit from Vito's. It cost $8 and should be here next Friday.