KEVPOPPAPUMP

Would a dremel be able to cut through?

I tried to move the clutch arm but that thing was welded stuck. At least I was able to drive back to camp shifting with no clutch. It would've been a sad site seeing my Banshee getting towed by a Sea Doo (DS650 Baja). I will post a pic of my clutch arm that is burnt and worn to hell once I get the rod and ball out. The 3 parts together should make a horrid pic. Should be up next Sunday or maybe even this Sunday.

Harbor Freight snap ring pliers are crap! I have been through Harbor Freight (cracked tip), NAPA (strong but too much angle to grip), Channelock (cracked tip & stripped bit holder), and Craftsman. Craftsman snap ring pliers with interchangeable tips hold up the best. I have taken off my T5 silencer caps many times changing back and forth between Hush Kit and regular tips.

Did you just replace the ball and rod? Or did you do the pancake bearing or ceramic ball mod?

When you buy a Hinson clutch basket, does it include the drive gear on the back of it? If not, how do you remove the drive gear off the stock basket (special tools)? Reason I ask is, the pics I see online at Rocky Mountain etc. do not show the drive gear.

Another thing that was recommended was to drill a hole on the left side of the case and plug it with a bolt so if the rod and ball was not too severly stuck, you could at least tap it out rather than rely on a magnet. I had a really strong magnet so the rod must be mushroomed badly. Anybody know what this actuator kit is that TDR sells for $200? The description says "eliminates stock rod and ball assembly" but there is no pic.

I was there and it was definately less congested than previous T-Days. Olds on Friday night was mellow. China Wall was pretty cool on Saturday afternoon. Since my Banshee was out of commission, I was riding my buddies Bombadier DS 650 Baja. The Sea Doo (thats what we call it) is heavy but dunes like a Cadillac! I wish my Banshee sucked up the whoops like the Sea Doo!

I don't roll down with the clutch pulled in, however, I am guilty of sitting at the start line with the clutch in waiting for a race. I am just now starting to hear people say it is bad to use the clutch too much. Lesson learned a little too late for me! Maybe if neutral was easier to engage, I'd use it more. I do have a modified shift star with back cut neutral from MP Racing and don't notice any difference from stock.

Alright, I'd like to thank those on the board that helped me get my clutch arm arrows aligned correctly! I just got back from a 2nd dissapointing Glamis trip in a month. The only upside was getting 3 good passes on Olds with the new Patriot port work. The power increase was awesome! After just a few passes, the clutch arm got stuck and wouldn't budge. I got back to camp and pulled the clutch cover, hub, and basket. The fluid looked good but the adjuster screw, ball, and rod didn't. The were all welded together and could not be extracted with a magnet. The arm was extremely worn and burnt where it contactls the rod. So I talked to a builder from Atomic Racing and he stated that this is a common problem that he sees all to frequently. The clutch heats up from holding it in too much causing the ball to weld to the rod and the rod smashes like a mushroom from friction pushing the arm. The solution is to use a Honda bearing or add one if I heard correctly. I forget exactly what he said the kit consists of but it utilizes a Honda part or design. This builder sells the kit for $75. He also stated something like Honda addressed this poor age old design by changing it on the 1988+ 250R's. So after rebuilding my motor just 2 months ago, its time to split the cases again just to fix this poor Yamaha design with a better Honda part. WTF!

I run the Toomey 2:1 and the only thing that sucks is having to wrap the outerwear with wire or zip ties so it won't melt on the pipe. As far as the filter coming off while riding, where is it coming apart from? I use automotive hose clamps on everything from the intake manifolds back. The Toomey large clamp for the filter to the rubber works good providing that you firmly snap the filter into the rubber. If it doesn't snap in then it will come out. I could see a problem if you used the stock Yamaha clamps to fasten the rubber to the carbs.

ILL SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE THE EXACT LEVER FOR 15 BUCKS INSTEAD OF PAYING 40 FOR A E Z PULL I'd be interested: tell me what I need to buy and what to do with the parts. That would make a great post for Tips & Tricks! Oh well, after this T-Day in Glamis, my left hand/forearm will be worked out good!

I just bought the Applied Racing Ball bearing clutch lever. The "ball bearing" sold me on thinking it would be smooth instead of sandy crusty feeling like the stock one. OH, its smooth, light, and hard as hell to pull especially since I have heavy duty clutch springs! Guess you can't beat the stock heavy lever for better leverage. Maybe next lever will be an easy pull one. I just couldn't find one online.

I only remember the 3 comparisons on the back: straight coolant, 50/50 with water wetter, and water wetter and distilled water. I didn't see anything about Dexcool in particular and was sort of hesitant to just dump it in when I refill my radiator. I'll check it out today when I hit up the shop.

Is Redline Water Wetter compatible with coolant such as Dexcool (orange color)? My temp gauge reads around 180-190 when riding hard in Glamis but it has gotten as high as 195. At that point I shut it down. I already have one of those inline coolers but I was looking at Water Wetter last time at the shop and was curious if I should try it.

Cool thanks for researching that Meat! I will take that extra plate/fiber out tonight.

Yep. I could be wrong, its berry berry late but Im pretty sure there should only be 7 plates and 7 frictions in the basket. You need to run the special fancy Hinson setup to run the 8 plate setup. And its just not a regular ol' Hinson clutch basket, you need the special Hinson 8 plate basket and 8 plate hub. I dont know if this is going to help your adjustment problem, but I do know that you have too many plates in there. It would be 6 plates and 7 frictions. I've seen the Hinson 9 plate basket but not the 8 plate. On the EBC package, it just stated that there was an extra plate for better clutch performance. I'll pull the extra plate/friction disc out tomarrow and see whats going on again.

Yeah I thought that but the adjustment is off the same amount either way. Do you think I should take out the extra friction and steel plate?

OK I tried it the way you described but when I go to the lever to take out the slack, I can basically back the adjuster all the way out and there is still way too much slack.

Yes, Dan at Patriot is the man! As busy as he is as a one man operation he still provides excellent customer support. See you in Glamis on T-Day! If my Shee gets dialed in, hope to run you at Olds.

All the parts are there and the arm is seated. If I push the arm all the way forward then adjust the screw to get the arrows aligned, then pull on the lever, the arm arrow still passes the case arrow. I ordered a new cable and lever so if that dont work I officially give up'.

I just bought 2 new adjusters just in case and checked out the ball and shaft and they look fine. The arrows are still not lining up. Here is what I am doing: - Screw the adjuster on the pearch all the way in clockwise. - Have the clutch lever pulled in all the way and held there. - Move the adjuster in the middle of the flywheel clockwise trying to get the arm arrow to move back to match up with case arrow. - The arm arrow will not move back far enough to match the case arrow. The arm arrow is passing the case arrow when clutch lever is fully pulled in. - With the adjuster screw all the way fully clockwise, the arm arrow is still about 1/8th inch past too far of the case arrow. This is the same exact adjustment that burned up my last brand new Barnett clutch in 3 hours of riding. This is rediculous! I am ready to pay a shop WHATEVER it will cost to get this thing right by T-Day! Sad part is Trinity Racing or CT are the only shops I know of locally.

OK this is my second clutch in about 3 hours of riding. Now I got the EBC 8 plate setup and I cant get this clutch mechanism arrow adjustment any better than when I had the Barnett setup. The arm arrow goes past the arrow on the case. I can't tighten the adjuster screw anymore cause its stripped so any ideas on what to do??? I'm sure it isn't a clutch cable stretch problem cause the arrow would not reach the arrow on the case if so.

In my never ending nightmare of working on my Banshee, now the clutch has found its way to slow my progress for completion by T-Day in Glamis. Installing my EBC Kevlar Race EP clutch was supposedly to be cake but....... CAUTION: Do not over torque the clutch spring bolts on the pressure plate! I have 2 different 3/8ths torque wrenches (one inch lbs/one ft lbs) and none have 7.5 lbs. So I figured since it skipped from 4.5 lbs to 10lbs, that 10lbs would be fine. Well one spring bolt broke as I torqued it causing the broken half to get stuck in the inner clutch hub. NO PROBLEM, I'll just drill it out. Well that was an easy way to destroy the inner clutch hub threads. So the two local Yamaha dealers to me have to special order everything and it always takes at least 4-5 business days. LUCKILY, Bert's in Covina (aka MEGA CYCLE MALL) had the bolts and inner hub in normal stock. This place rocks! If you haven't been there, it is no joke the size of most Wal Marts. The place was packed and every saleman has a customer. People were buying quads like there was no tomarrow. Anyway, I hope this story serves as a WARNING to not overtorque bolts on your Banshee!

The PRM cargo rack does sit above the rear fender and not sticking out like the Armadillo and the likes. PRM cargo rack holds two gas cans on each side and a cooler in the middle. Its pretty trick! Maybe Alexbrooke can send you a pic

I saw exhaust repair tape at PepBoys but I don't want to put it on the chrome since it sets permanent. Header wrap would be nice but at $40 a roll it is kinda pricey. BTW where do they sell that silicone hose that pipe manufactures use on pipes they sell?