BigRed350x

Good tips! I'm itching in my pants to get this thing running again with the stroker and cub.

Damn bro, sorry to hear it. When I camp somewhere for more than a day I usually take a big military surplus baracks tent. Sleeps 6 people I think. We can pull our bikes inside the tent with us at night. That and the red healer alarm are a pretty good deterant. If that's not enough, all the guns we are usually shooting off around our camp lets people know what the other anti-theft option is. Hope you find them!

However you wanna do it. I've done a shit ton of these and pull everything off the inspect it. If you are just splitting the cases for shits and giggles that's fine, but you need to inspect everything, which is why I take everything off. I will continue to pull everything out after I wash it. Good tips though. I've done so many of these I don't have any problems with it going smoothly any more. To avoid any problems though, everyone should have a clymers manual, they go over all this in far more detail.

That's all for now. I am going to go wash everything and then I will go over putting it back together with new fancy stuff later.

Just lift the crank out. Remember to remove the two seals at either end of the crank. remove the little clip thingy that lines up the bearing. Here's the trans. Keep your parts organized in baggies!!

Smack the cases with a rubbler mallet a couple times to break that seal between them. Smack them all the way around front and back and get them lose. Lift the top case off. Here's the inside. Here's the tranny.

remove the stator plate and the stator. Push this little rubber seal through the case. slide the plugs back out through the case and get the stator out of your way. Here's another side shot. remove the timing key from the crank Flip that big ol hog over. If you didn't pull that little ball bearing out from the inside of the clutch , watch out for it when you tip it over. I lost mine. lol Stupid me. Losen all those nuts on the bottom in a criss cross pattern a little bit at a time. Flip it back over. Losen the bolts you can see below. Compare the next two pics and you can see which ones to remove.

OK, next is the stator cover & all that crap. remove the nut that holds the flywheel in place. Put a dab of grease on that little indentation there before you try and use your flywheel puller. Thread in the primary part of the puller (reverse thread) Once that is tight, put in the secondary and use an impact gun on it until your flywheel pops off. I stick that nut inside the flywheel since it's magnetic and you won't lose it. remove the 3 bolts that hold the stator. Here you can see how I modded my stock stator plate to advance my timing.

Next up is the kickstarter. This whole thing comes out as an assembly, and you can take it apart once out, but I'm not going to do that. Grab that big spring and lift it off that little peg. Rotate the entire assembly clockwise to release the keyed notch behind the springs & stuff. Pull the kickstarter assembly out. Here's another side shot. There is a little C shaped clip that holds the two case halves together and holds the tranny bearing in place. We need to remove that. Not the baffle, but the little C shaped clip below it. Losen the two philips head screws and take it out. Oh yeah, here's that smaller washer that sits behind the Idler gear. Forgot that one.

Pull that gear out. This main drive gear has a shaft attached to the back of it. remove the square key. Next is the idler gear. Here's a side shot remove the C Clip that holds the idler gear in place. You should NEVER reuse these, just buy a new one. remove the washer next. Then the idler gear.

Here's a shot of the clutch basket. Notice that bronze colored bearing in there. That will come out if you want it to, but I'm not messing with it. Here's a shot without the basket. Remove the bearing that the clutch basket rides on. There is also a smaller washer behind that, but I didn't take that one out. Next pull off the two gears on the crank. This little nut has a really high torque on it on some bikes. Mine was one of them. I had to smack on my wrench to get it off. Here's the nut. Take the washer off too. Here's your water pump gear. These both slide right off. Here you can see the large square key that holds your main drive gear.

OK next you will want to hammer down the little nut locker that is in there. Here's a little trick if you do this out of the frame. Feed your chain into your sprocket and bind it up like it were going to bust your case (or case saver in my case). This will lock up the tranny and the clutch so you can losen that nut. Here's the nut. Get the washer behind it too. Now remove the inner hub. Remove the thick washer behind that. Now remove the outer hub/basket or whatever you wanna call it.

Pictures for part two will be up later tonight. I don't care if you post replies & stuff, but wait till all the pictures are up. The last pictures in the set will be of the tranny. When you see those, post away. That way people don't get all upset and mad like what happened to chase.

Sorry, I was at work when i made that post. Work stress gets to me during the day and I am generally not a happy camper. Sorry.

How about... not slipping off the pegs. I've had ATV's for 12 years and have never slipped off the pegs. I don't understand why that is a problem for people. Maybe my fat ass is too heavy to slide off. The only time I run nerfs in the sand is when a girl wants a ride. And my nerfs have the webbing cut out of them, because I would always get my feet caught in them when I would shift or use the brakes. They are huge pain in the ass, and I would run them into stuff down at walden, which really fucks you up in a hillclimb when you are going in and out of trees. There's no need for them unless you are in MX and have people smashing into the side of your bike off the line.

Keep in mind that this is just removal. Installation is a lot more critical, since you have to have the clutch plates aligned right. There is a certain way you have to put the plates in, or it won't grab right.

It's ok, he will burn in hell.

Shit, I haven't even gotton into anything yet. That's all basic stuff. You have to do the clutch stuff to change a clutch so you should get good at that. Wait until the re-assembly when you have to get everything lined up right... fun fun fun. The idler gear and kick starter are fun too. It's all pretty simple once you've done a few. I've done this about 12-15 times since i got into banshee's. We even did this once in the back of a guys truck at walden when he blew a tranny. I changed out his tranny with one another guy had. Try to do it at the sand dunes and keep everything clean. lol

You will either need the special yamaha tool (gay) or air imapact tools to get that big nut off of there. I will continue all this tomarrow or the next day for you all. I will do the flywheel first thing tomarrow for you. That is a really simple task. Then I will jump back over the other side to show how to remove all the shift linkage, shift star, idler gear, kick starter gears, etc. Stay Tuned. I will just ADD to this post with the work I do each so, I WON'T be creating a new post for each day, so make sure you check back to this post tomarrow night or Sunday morning for the next little bit. - Jared If anyone wants better pictures of anything along here, tell me and i will get them. I will also be doing a re-assembly walk-through as well.

Here you can see the inner and outer hubs. Slide the adjustment bolt/nut/carrier thingy out. It will come right out. This as far as i got tonight before my light burned out. There is a small ball bearing behind that adjust bolt/nut/thingy so watch and make sure that it doens't fall out when you pull that part out. i will get more pictures tomarrow as I continue the tear down.

Losen these a little bit at a time, to keep your clutch level across all the plates to avoid damage. Next, slide off the outer hub. Here is with the hub removed and you can see the clutch plates. Since i am replacing my clutch i don't really care about what shape its in, so I am just going to remove it as a whole. So i just grab the whole stack and pull it right out. There are metal and fiber plates in there. i will go over how to install the clutch back in when I do the re-assemble pictures later.

Here's a side shot of the clutch assembly. First, losen that little phillips head screw in there. Hold the lock nut with a wrench and losen the screw with your screwdriver. OK, now since i do everything on a bench and not in the frame, i do this to keep the engine from turning over when i work on it. It's hard on your rods, so only do this when you have to keep something from moving, then take it back out. Next, take out that little nut in there, and the washer behind it. Now go up on top of the case and remove the little bracket that holds the clutch arm in place. Now remove the clutch arm. It just pulls right out. Now losen the six bolts that hold your clutch springs. Again, do these in a criss cross pattern.

Ok onto the clutch. This scares a lot of people, but it is really a simple job. There isn't much to the clutch on these bikes. But if you don't get it right, it will haunt you. Pull the clutch cover bolts... My water pump cover is already off in these pics... I had to use my super tool again to get the cover off the gasket. (it was stuck, but came right off with a little help. I move my engine to the edge of my desk to drain the rest of the oil. You can tell by the color of my oil that my clutch needs to be replaced. The gray color means something ont he clutch is slipping and/or burning and/or rubbing off into the oil. it's not a milky consistancy, that's how i know it's not coolant in the oil. I also run some different additives to my oil that will change the way it looks if its contaminated at all, when I get water in my oil it will turn red. Here is the clutch cover taken off... Here is looking at the clutch.

Just slide the wristpin bearing out of the rod. These come right out with no trouble at all. Do the other side... Now you should just have the rods sitting there... Here are the pistons. Notice the pattern of the carbon on the top. This is how your pistons should look once your bike is set up right. You can see right where the transfers are blowing and the exhaust is pulling the burned gasses out based on the pattern on the top of each piston. Thse pistons came out of my bike that had approx. 75 hours of HARD riding on them. I would have no problem putting these back in another bike with a new set of rings.