blowit

Dan, could you post up the dyno sheet on those cylinders? I might know a guy interested. Thanks Brandon

Would like to know more about your setup but sounds like to got a nasty detonation condition where you either ran the carb bowls dry or lean. The bike would not shut off because it was dieseling. Pump fuels and alky are more common on this than race fuel. brandon

If it makes you feel better, I have never scraped any cylinder in my life and my first banshee port job pulled 55HP on an inertial chassis dyno. Enough study on the subject before you ever touch a tool is key. I will admit there is an "art" or more appropriately called, "experience" in operating porting tools accurately and in a controlled fashion. You sound like you are going about it the right way so keep your nose in the books and don't tackle the whole job at once. Take it one port or area at a time. :thumbsup: Brandon

I was not trying to discourage but merely pointing out that more homework needs to be done. I remember when I was learning porting and asked the guy who I started learning from how much duration will make a certain 250 happy. He replied with, "about 2mm". I knew at that point that i had learned what I could from him but I was getting over his head. He learned from the school that most did and that is, keep going until it runs like crap. Then you have found the limit. Those theories make absolutely no sense especially when real math is applied. You can calculate to a nats ass what your engine will do if you have a calculator and know how to use it. That being said, if you do not understand fluid dynamics, there is another book in there to read. I think everything came together for me with my OEM performance schooling. That is not an option for everyone but there are plenty of books out there that have NOTHING to do with porting that will educate in port flow behaviors. In short, aerodynamics, fluid dynamics, and thermodynamics. I would say anything less would be working ports old school and blindfolded. Brandon

You missed the book on port timing. Anyone that ports a cylinder bases on mm's is going to have problems. You either need to work the trig or do some more reading regarding timing. Brandon K, that sounded harsh, my bad.

Lighting coil in stator is bad. Use meter to verify no ACV from yellow wire coming from stator to chassis ground while running. B

Wow, then tear it apart and rebuild it again! This is a cut from our site. Probably could use some refinements but gets our views across. Q: How do I break in my new or rebuilt engine? A: This really depends on many factors so we will go through steps for new engines from OEM and fully rebuilt engines. OEM engines are run minimally at the factory and are never fully broke in. Anytime a new or rebuilt engine is started, it is best to bring it up to operating temps (around 10min) keeping the rpms around 2k, then allowed to cool to room temp. This allows the first uniform expansion of heated parts and allows stress areas to

I have to ask, why does one need to "float" the ground? I am just curious on that. We have had no issues creating DC power within .05% by using the OEM setup with full bridge rectification. Is the RS reg/rect setup differently? I mean, the voltage is potential energy and potential from ground to hot will be the same as "floated" ground to hot. Also, something we started doing years ago was re-routing the OEM light switching to kill the power to the reg without the lights on thus inducing an open line condition thus no potential and no wire heating. This also allows the OEM reg to handle the RS stator with no problems. The switch tolerates the higher voltage without any arc decay of the switch.

I think so many, myself included, have damn near wrote novels by now on the same subjects. To the point one could build a Banshee from scratch with the resources on the site. Granted not too many do a search or many things would not get asked so many times. 3-4 similar posts in the same page is too many. I was hoping someone would help with tech documents from a neutral standpoint and help everyone. I have plenty of tech data I have my my site that I refer to for people asking questions. I think even common web links on certain subjects would go a long way. Which ever, I am simply throwing out a suggestion but granted, it would reduce the amount of posting on the forum.

Every other tech forum has Sticky posts that cover the majority of posts. Man does this forum need it. Hate to throw piss on anyone's campfire but I really think this could help a lot of guys get going quicker and reduce the repetitive posts on , "low compression, loss of spark, miss on one cylinder, plugs are black, how much timing, what size jet, what fuel, what oil, what seat cover?". I think this would really benefit from a hot topics area. Any takers? Brandon

Who'd ya talk to? Good to hear some people care. B

And there ya go! exactly my sentiments. Whahooo, your daddy has more money than I do, now can you "ride" that mountain of dollars????? I have been in dealer sales, racing, building, you name it. It always phases me that all dudes that have fast bikes feel like "da man" until they have to do something other than twist and hold on!! I mean no disrespect to the true drag guys here because this is not about the real drag guys. "Posers" as we call them or "squids". I think I was actually looked at as a tool on a quad in the dealer says until I showed up to a scramble race years ago on a 300EX against Banshees. I was there for fun and fun it was. 3rd out of 21 on a turd! Just think if I had a 400EX. I have also experienced the tools at the dunes on there modded Banshees... Wow did I have fun when I hit the trails with one of the first 400 suks with knobbies! HS, if I had a dollar for every Banshee I passed. I think I was on a high that day and really liking the handling of that 400. I am showing my age now!! Moral of the stories, fast rides can still get smoked by fast riders.

We were hoping for staggering flow data with ID dimpling in R&D but it simply induced too much turbulence in an ID environments. One of the things we were able to establish was the rapid changes in velocity and the pressurized air, does not seem to work with dimples. Now, my aerospace Eng may not agree with me but I feel that the irregular surfaces and inconsistent methods for dimpling cause the most problem. All in all, an increase in eddy currents or boundary layer and decrease in flow. If we had better ways to test the surfaces, we might be able to make it work but too many months in R&D for us. As far as airplane wings, you are spot on. I love seeing knife edge this and that. Makes no sense either. Sub-sonic air - super sonic fixins. Coming from aerospace, I learned airflow before porting. One thing that is kind of neat is to look at the nose of "most" aircraft. pointy means super sonic, bullnose means sub sonic. Of course there are other reasons for sharp, irregular edges too.. B

Not real sure but I heard it was the "in" thing to do. :biggrin: B

Not sure why you want to make it slower but it is your baby. Roughing your ports will NOT make your bike faster. If you want prrof of that, next time you are at a pro MX race, ask one of the OEM teams to show you a cylinder. "If" you get that accomplished, you will learn a lot. Those are the guys that truely understand porting. When I attended Kawasaki school of performance, this was all on the table. Also, polishing the exhaust without the addition of porting it, will yield very little gain. I would not recommend you take your engine apart for this. If is already apart, I guess, why not. Brandon

We have never found that rough intake ports increase atomization, only increase the boundary layer and increase fuel pooling. Ultimately, air flow depends largely on port shape and surface finish. The rougher it is, the less it flows. Our testing included many tool and sanded finishes. We noted specific changes in velocity patterns and negative pressure levels within the port as well. We are convinced the best place to induce maximum atomization it at the point of combustion through the Xfer tunnels and head design. It would be a given that smooth finishes that extends well into the micro finishes is desired in the exhaust to maintain maximum velocity and negative wave activity in the exhaust tract. Brandon

Parking brake sensor. Simply adjust the parking brake so the little lever on the clutch perch returns completely and that should fix you up. It will induce a rev limiter circuit when the PB is on or not adjusted properly. Brandon

Long rod = a longer con rod Stroker = longer stroke from TDC to BDC B

Soundsl like a hairy ride to me! Hold on when it hits! Brandon

Don't ride at night! Brandon

Guys, gaging the condition of an engine by compression alone is like rolling a bowling ball down the lane blind folded. We would pull a motor down, no question at 110psi. About 90% of the time, when the rings are worn enough to allow that much blow-by, the pistons are generally worn out too. You can save yourself a crank by at least opening it and mic'ing everything. Can't tell you how many broke pistons we see. Guess you could always run er till she blows too. Brandon

That is kinda where I was headed. I am wondering if your choking circuit is causing problems. If you can dribble some raw fuel into the carb throats and get a good response, you will know what is up. Remember that the air screws are critical to good starting and may need constant adjustment for a large ambient air delta. Brandon

I think so! Hard to tell lately while bring new machines online this winter. Day and night just kind of merge together right now. I trust all rookies are in good hands though! Brandon

I agree with banshee guy, trans is probably fine. the things you are talking about have nothing to do with the trans. Hard clutch pull, bent leverage arm, those are things only associated with the clutch. If your clutch was not fully disengaging, that would cause the clutch ball to weld, but that is it. What happens when the clutch pack wears from slip is it gets tight and could have smoked and then tried to weld some plates or the clutch ball. Check all that and go from there. Brandon

where is this adjuster??? What does it adjust???