FireHead

If it is reasonably close to 13.5" long, then I will take it. :thumbsup:

I might be a little off with the time frame that design change happened. It may have been longer ago than one year. There is a big thread over on PS about it. :thumbsup:

Astroglide? :ermm:

You would like to see a 5mil rub wouldn't you............. sick bastard. :biggrin:

The YFZ450 shocks are longer than OEM Banshee shocks. The maximum angle that the ball joint stud can move in relation to the it's body is generally the limiting factor in ho far down your a-arms can move in relation to the chassis. Normally, you shock runs out of down ward travel first before you reeach the angular limit of the ball joint. However, if this winds up not being the case and the ball joints are limiting your suspension travel, then the ball joints will wear out very quickly and can break quite easily. Ball joints breaking are one of those things that can kill you, so it' best to be checking to see whats actually going on with the front end of your bike before you start bolting things together. :thumbsup:

Post a picture please. :thumbsup:

The Pirate Hooker (Bansh-eman) is correct. However, it is worthwhile to point out that Hinson made a slight design change to their Banshee pressure plate about a year or so ago that made it much easier to use a DD lock up clutch with it. If you run in to one of the older plates, then there isn't much you can do to make it work other than sell it on eBay and buy a new one or and OEM plate. :geek:

Mine work great! I wound up hjaving TCS rework the valving on them, but they were prettty good to begin with. The onlt catch is that htey are longer than OEM Banshee shocks, so you will need to make sure your ball joints do not wind up being you suspension travel limiting device. :geek:

Word.

Check the torque on the cylinder head nuts. If that is ok, then you need to look at replacing the o-rings on top of the domes. :thumbsup:

FYI: Twister is putting in their 5mil cranks without touching the cases. :thumbsup:

Do not put Loctitie on Nylock nuts! Most types of Loctite will degrade the nylon in the Nylock nuts, thus defeating the purpose of both, the Loctite, and the Nylock nut. :thumbsup:

What is the lengths of the Marvin Shaws?

You need way more than .25" of thread depth........... I would go for atleat and inch. :thumbsup:

After looking at the pictures of your arms, disregard what I said previously........... I don't think you have Janssen arms there. Atleast they don't look like any Janssen arms that I have ever seen before.

On Janssen arms, the upper heim joint does not use a cotter pin. Instread they use a nylock nut. Somehow that kind of nut did not get back on there at some point. :thumbsup:

Word. There is only one person on here that I know that is actually running one, and he had to make a new suspesnsion linkage and modify his frame. :thumbsup:

I would suspect you grew an air leak somewhere on the left side....... :thumbsup:

Word. You do not have a 75mm diameter piston. :thumbsup:

email returned...... :thumbsup:

I might want it, but not without pictures first.......... :thumbsup:

Word. :thumbsup:

Technically, it could sort of have something to do with drafting........... if you had a set of prints for your engine, but most people do not have access to things like that (including most engine shops). :geek:

No need to balance. All you have to do is make sure the pins and mains are clocked properly and spin true. :thumbsup:

Word. I have the carbs on my red bike out to 30mm, I had to do a bunch of weirdo stuff to make that work. :geek: