FireHead

Cheap ass................ :biggrin:

The penetrant method is definetly useful for informal and field crack checking. I like the mag-particle method for unused parts, but if you have parts that have run in an engine and had a ferrous part fail near it, then you can get all kinds of hokey results. :geek:

6061 T6 can be stress relieved/aged, but it is not always done and that nomenclature doesn't say either way. Usually you'll have another four numbers after it. 2000, 5000, and 6000 series ally is nice to use on a developement engine as you can easily weld it. If I was making premium domes for a a race engine, then I would be using 7075. :geek:

Bump.

PM's Returned. :thumbsup:

Completely sold. :thumbsup:

I think you mean the Cheetah used the CR reeds............ :thumbsup:

He asked me if I wanted to be the goat, and I told him no.

Generally we use an x-ray method to check for cracks in parts like that. A dye might work if the crack was prominent enough. :geek:

I have seen cracking that started near the top of the spark plug thread. It was due to overtightening and too thin of steup up to that area. I had one dome crack begining at the o-ring groove and heading up, but that was again due to having too thin of area in that region. I had several other failures that broke due to design or something that I was doing with them. I will get pictures when I get back home. :geek:

..........as does the circumference of the tire. :geek:

Dave is having a goat rope at his house on the 4th of July............... :ermm:

I thought you could get a 78mm Cheetah?

PM's Returned.

PM's Returned.

The 10mil engine will be less reliable due to the increased power outoput beating up the drivetrain. If you go with billet cases and a robust clutch/trans., then you probably won't have a problem. :geek:

The funny thing about white is around engines, is that it doesn't stay white long. It either gets crap baked on it, turns yellow from heat, or otherwise discolors. :geek:

Jared is awesome! He definitely put the peanut butter on the beagle. :biggrin:

You will lose a good bit of your gas charge and some oil if you do that. In other words fon't do it unless you are ok with having to send your shock back to Elka. If it were me, I would put the resevoir where Elka recommends. :geek:

Word. I love that song! :biggrin:

How about $200 shipped? :smile:

Call LSR for the tool, or ask them for their newer rod ends that don't require reaming (I am not sure if the shank threas is the same).

It depends on what kind of power your 10mil is making. The one I had went through a few different sets of tires ending with 80" 14 paddle extremes which still were not enough. I really needed some 82" 16 paddle stagered extremes. :geek:

You usually have to tap them in a bit........... An OEM Yamaha key is probably all you want to use. There is so much variance in generic woodruff keys that it's not worth trying something else............ :geek:

Bump.