DGFUNNY70

So what did you pay for those carbs.

I used to run the 100:1 mix for a year or so seemed to work ok then switched to 50:1 dominator seems to work just fine everyone I know uses it and has never had a problem with rust what so ever. I also used to run the Belray gear saver till I split my case that stuff gets sticky like honey after a while now I run torco.

Yep Redline Racing they are in sweethome Oregon I was very pleased with the whole experiance. Here's his website http://www.redline-racing.net/ the phone #541-367-2543. Cameron was always there to help and ready to ansewer my questions. I shipped him my engine he was able to build my engine and have it back in plenty of time before my trip and on the way to the dunes I was able to stop by and throw it on the dyno. :thumbsup:

Lets see if I've got this straight there going to charge you to what I think they consider a down grade from tr-6's to t-5's. How old are your tr-6s pipes that could play into it but I was in your same sitiuation and they traded me my tr-6's for t-5's for free just cost me fright. My Tr-6's where not very old and I only had them for a short time but they exchanged them for free. If I wanted to upgraded they would have charged me say I had t-5's and wanted to get tr-6's. As far as the two pipes our concered I have always heard the t-5's will work better with port work. I also think they are an excellent choice for a good mid to top end pipe. There are several pipes out there that will come on later and pull longer and harder than the t-5. So if they won't swap you out for free you could look in to other pipes and make your choice then there's always ebay for your tr-6's.

WHAT ARE YOU USEING FOR FUEL. ALSO I HAVE BOTH THE DYNA AND THE RICKY STATOR TIMING PLATE AND STATOR. WHEN I WENT TO THE DYNO THERE WAS LESS THAN A HORSE POWER DIFFERENCE ON MY SET UP BETWEEN THE 3 POWER CURVES AND 5 DEGREE'S BUT IF YOU CAN FIGURE OUT WHY YOU HAVE DETONATION I WOULD JUST STICK WITH THE DYNA. I KNOW I SAID THERE POWER CURVES BECUASE THE 4TH WAS THE STOCK SETTING I USED WITH THE FIVE DEGREES TIMING.

I really couldn't say I never let my gas run that low I always filled up before it ran dry and most of the time I never let it get to reserve I fill up everytime I leave camp no matter how much fuel I have in my tank but I belive the "RUN" tube is a bout 2.5 to 3 inches long so it would last quiet a while

WAIT I MEAN TO SAY IT WAS MISSING OFF THE PETCOCK IT WAS ACTUALY FLOATING IN THE GAS TANK.

I WOULD SAY THAT YOU

Sorry I disagree but a four strokes power comes on lower in the rpm range than a 2 stroke. As far your tire spin idea that is traction issue not a horsepower or torque issue. Most of all I can't see a bike that has 1/3 more horse power getting spanked unless he's running no traction at all.

Also every engine is different and when they start making horsepower and torque all depends on the engine.

That

There are many different things that come in to play tires, weight and gearing for instance but Horsepower is horsepower the measurement doesn

WHERE TO GO GET MY BIKE POWDER COATED AND ABOUT HOW MUCH TO DO FRAME, A-ARMS, HUBS, AND SWING ARM?

Fuel supply line is 1/4" and the fuel over flow lines are 1/8" fish tank hose at walmart works great for that.

THE WASHER THAT GOES ON THE IDLER GEAR IS FLAT ON ONE SIDE ON THE INSIDE OF IT.

THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT WILL CONTACT JEFF AT F.A.S.T VERY SOOON.

THE ONE STOP SPORT SHOP IS NEXT TO THE TEXCO ON YOUR RIGHT SIDE AS YOU ARE LEAVEING TOWN.

YES YOU ARE RIGHT MOSES LAKE BELIEVE ME I'M NOT THINKING STRAIGT AFTER FINDING THIS PROBLEM.

Has anyone here used the yamaha shop or parkers in coos bay for anything more than general repairs and what did you think also what about the one stop sport shop in reeds port do any major mods there.

Here are my mods 1992 Banshee - 2+1 A-Arms, A-T Dual Rate Shocks, 4 Over Swing Arm and Re-valved Shock, Exposed Air Filters, Bored Stock Carbs, G3 Reeds, After Market Manifold, Dune Port, Cool Head 18cc, Hot Rod Crank, T-5 Pipes, Dyna Ignition, HO Ricky Stator, 14/43 Sprockets, 20x10x10 10 Paddle

Well I was going to send my jugs off to Jeff at F.A.S.T. and have him do his Dune port new pistons and rings also get some 33pwk's. When I took off my side case cover to install my modded shift star I found a funny washer in the bottom of the case. Now I know from before hand that the shift idler gear clip was in a pretty bad way so I looked there first sure enough the clip was gone. I knew that this could be a problem because before the drive shaft was slightly chipped but it was still enough I thought it should hold WRONG. Now I know with out a doubt that I will have to have the case split and replace the drive shaft. I figured while I have the bike completely apart should I run this bike to the next level. I primarily ride in the moose lake sand dunes Washington state. Twice a year we make a trek down to the Oregon sand dunes. I'm one of only three banshees in our group and the most heavily modified in the group. Their are a few 450 and a couple of Raptor so my bike is pretty much top dog. We all like to spend a majority of our time riding threw the trees and climbing hills and out of hole's. We make it down to boxcar about two or three times to goof around and do a little drag racing nothing to serious. So I want to have the best set up for trial riding and climbing out of holes. I have seen allot of people switching to the cub motors but it sound's like mostly for dragging correct me if I

Last september we where at the dunes and my brother had just pulled his raptor on too the beach and snap his chain broke. He was on level ground and wasn't doing anything crazy and come on it's a raptor. When the chain broke it took out the top mount on his case saver and made the case saver unuseable. Now I'm using primary drive chain and sprokets with no problems knock on wood. Has any one else had a primary drive chain break or was this just a flook. Also has any one used the Ek chain and sproket kit off of magicracing.

Have any of you guys used the super lights from cascade inovations. I have been looking at getting them or a similar setup where there seems to be more tire than rim. Has any one compared running a smaller wheel with a bigger tire and what the result was. Vrs going with a larger wheel like a 10in with the 10x10x20 tire.

I have been thinking of doing this mod for a long time also. I ride primarly in the dunes and most often where I think I would use this the most is in the OR dunes. Now the reason I was thinking of getting one is when climbing some trails with twist and turns in 2nd gear I have to get out of the powerband to make some of the turns. Then I have to clutch it a little to get it back up into the powerband thus bringing the front tires off the ground and this usally throws me off course. I figured having the ligthend flywheel would maybe help me get back into the power band after letting off so I wouldn't have to clutch it as much. I currently have 10x10x20 10 paddle extreem with 14 41 gearing. I was planning to do some things to it soon such as the shift star and going to 14 43 gearing at the same time doing the lightend flywheel but if it is going to make me clutch it alot more I wonder if it's worth it. I have also thought about a less aggresive tire that would let me ride up in 2nd gear.

I don't think you will hurt any thing but your pocket book a little not much though beucase race gas is pretty close to the cost of super now. Also race gas burns slower not faster than say super the higher the # of octane is the higher its restiance to detination for higher compression bikes this is esential also if you where to advance your timeing you would benifit from the longer burn