DGFUNNY70

JJH J = 3' 00' Taper Degrees J = 25.40 L1 H = 2.435 Dia N68A A = 1' 35' Taper Degrees H = 24.25 L1 R = 2.75 Dia Dia = If I understand this right the JJH is richer on 1/8 to 1/4 throttle. Taper = JJH and richer from 1/4 to wide open throttle with most effect on 3/4 throttle. L1 = The N68A needler is richer from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle more effect on 1/4 throttle. So am I right in saying the JJH is the richer needle and does any one have the specs on the N80F needle.

I changed the size of my tires from 20" to 22" I also changed my gearing but not enough. I bought new gears better ratio and reused the other chain because I had only used it about 10 hours or so. I took the bike out for a ride everything was going ok but the chain was a little loose so I tightened it a little. We then took off for the lake and on the way the master link fell out and the chain was wrapped around the axle. I would not usually reuse a chain except in a pinch I was wondering if anyone here would reuse the chain or buy a new one.

I was just wondering if any one has ever gotten a good plug reading using amsoil dominator at 50:1. If no then is there a good synthetic that you have gotten a good plug reading with and at what ration or is better to use a non-synthetic. Thanks in advance.

I took my water pump apart today becuase I plan to replace it with a billet pump either from pro design or mull havent decided yet. When I was spining the water pump I noticed that the shaft of the water pump seemed to spin more in the bearing then the actually bearing spining itslef does that seem normal.

Remove one POS Ricky Stator and replace with OE stator. Much Thanks AKheathen for your belief in my diagnosis. Well I let this problem persist for far to long my stator wasen't in oe specs let alone Ricky Stator Specs. Ricky Stator Spes Green to Red 10-11Ω White/Green to White/Red 100-110Ω Black to Yellow 0-1Ω If you got time and you have a Ricky Stator you might give this a Read. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In the two years I have had my 4 mill I have dynoed it twice the first time I made about 75 horsepower and it seemed to rev out just like it should. Then about a year later I dynoed it again this time I had changed my reeds from v-force 2 to v-force 3 and I also changed from stock carbs to 30mm oko

In the two years I have had my 4 mill I have dynoed it twice the first time I made about 75 horsepower and it seemed to rev out just like it should. Then about a year later I dynoed it again this time I had changed my reeds from v-force 2 to v-force 3 and I also changed from stock carbs to 30mm oko

I know I am probably over thinking this but how much difference do you think there is between these two tires. I'm thinking by the time you squeeze a 12-inch wide tire on an 8-inch rim it will be about the same height. Also if you are running the standard Douglas wheel what wheel thickness are you running?

Ok I'm Fine with that I may need more octane but I have yet to get an answer about why 5 degrees on timing plate bad and how come when I let the dyna ign module advance my ign problem goes away. Unless the dyna ign module isn

I can tell you about 180lbs compression and a mix of 110 and 91 octane at 50/50 mix. The horse power curves are almost identical. I don't know the squish on this set up.

I ran the bike on the dyno as listed below no problems these problems occurred on the dunes. I am running about 180lbs compression mixing race gas 50/50 running amsoil dominator 40to1. When I ran on dyno as described below there was little to no horse power difference in fact I think we ran it no timing advance at all and the horse power difference was minimal First I ride Bike with Ricky stator adjusted to five degrees dyna box on stock setting runs like crap about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Second I ride Bike with Ricky stator adjusted to five degrees and stock ign box and it runs like crap at or about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Third I ride bike with Ricky stator adjusted to zero and the dyna ign box on setting 2 or 3 and it seems to clear up. I don't see how this could be a jetting issue when I have made different electrical changes as listed above and it seems to run ok for a while maybe I'm wrong. Now as far as racing up and down the hill on the verge of it maybe being to lean or rich but not enough to affect it adversely and then when I get closer to the ocean and its a bit colder and it starts to run ruff maybe a jetting issue and have nothing related to the above problem or maybe it is I don't know.

Well lets begin here I have taken my bike to the dyno on two separate occasions. Both times we tried the dyna control on various different settings as well as the dyna on zero and adding five degrees of timing. It seems that either way it made very little affect on the horsepower it made peek horsepower on the highest setting of the dyna ignition but only .45 horsepower difference. So I decided I would see how the bike ran with five degrees of timing on the dunes with the stock ign box as well as the dyna set at stock level. When I was at mid to 3/4 throttle it would run funny like eeeehhhh!!! with either box. So I set the timing plate back to 0 and ran the dyna box in curve 2 and it seemed to run fine. So that is the way I left it and continued to ride. On one occasion we had road out to box car and started to drag race at this time I was spanking the completion and I did not notice anything unusual. Either that afternoon or the next day we where playing in the middle dunes we were racing on a flat surface and not an incline but closer to the ocean so the air was a bit cooler. This time I might have been lucky to take them off the line let alone win a race the bike seemed to run a Little like before the eeeehhh!!! Like it was not revving all the way out. We then proceeded to the beach and the bike seemed to have good initial throttle but would start to run ruff at 3/4 throttle that I felt was unusually. I have been reading about the Ricky stator (200w) problems and wondered if this sounded like one I purchased this Ricky stator in about 03 to 05. Are there any ways to test the stator other than how you would test the oe stator as well as different resistance or maybe power output? I have read were people have tried alternatives to Ricky stator but I have yet to see any feedback. Or is the stock stator just the best way to go. Any 87 to 94 stock stators out there.

Has any one done a Dyno # comparison on these two carbs. I also would listen to the seat of your pants comparison. Mind you my dyno #'s did not fare so well for the oko's

Just trying this whole poll thing out to see what the norm is.

I talked to a several builders and emailed a few more and I liked Cameron at redline the best so that's where I sent my stuff. I had another guy port my jugs before and was disappointed because it never ran very strong after words. Cameron did a kick ass job and I

Well from what I under stand V-force reeds are hands down the better power adder. They have more reed surface than other reeds and are perfered by most builders. I had a chance to pickup a set of the V-force 3 reeds a few months back $119 brand new (should have bought several sets). So I called Cameron at Redline who built my engine asked his opinion he told me to jump on them they have been more reliable and he's seen a horse or two gain over the 2's. Also like the guy said at the begining your finding less and less of the v2's around.

I ordered mine from rocky mountain atv and the package said t4 t5 on it that may not mean much though. Make sure you install them on the right sides if you look at the clamp they have a lip on the inside and that should go towards the rear the larger opening towards the front. I tryed to put them on the wrong way and I was like this aint f**king right so I called cascade they filled me in on it. Other than that use some dish soap on the rubber hose and you should have them on in no time. I've had other clamps and in my opinion I think these look the most trick.

When I was running stock carbs I had 350 mains and 27.5 pilots with a toomey style six clip needle in the fourth clip postion and the main might have been a tad bit fat but it ran great at sea level. I have now switched to the 30mm oko's and went riding yesterday. So far it seemed to respond best with 162 mains 52 pilot and a N68A needle in the 3rd clip postion. I plan to have it on the dyno this summer to see how close I'am becuase right now Not really able to go much faster than forth gear in the moses lake dunes (too small). My mods are in my sig right now I'm at about 1000 feet above sea level 65 degrees Ferinhit and pulling the front tires off the ground in every gear.

Well I'm going to say you really can't compare the larger carbs to these smaller carbs beucase the larger carbs flow more air and can draw the fuel more efficently than these smaller carbs. I would have to guess that the pilots should be pretty close comparison but mains will most likely vary. The N68A needle is the same needle cameron recomended to me. I also know that cascade sells there 28mm pwk's with them already installed in the carbs. The 30 oko's are I believe a real close comparison to the 28mm. I would tell you cameron has proably got you pretty close to what you need to be jetted at but with so many combonations it will some times take some rejetting. I had him build a 4mil for me last year I was useing stock carbs he told me to run with 350 mains 30 pilots and a toomey needle in the 4th clip postion and it ran flawless we dynoed it on his dyno at 75 rwhp and 44 fpt I was VERY VERY happy. This gave me the power to push the 10 paddle extree's I bought very well. I currently have the 30mm oko's that you are all useing I started out with 162 mains 52 pilots N68A needle in the 4th postion 2 turns out on the air screw. The bike ran ok a little rich so I went down to a 48 pilot and it has cleaned up my mid band considerabley but I feel that I could get it a bit beter so I'm planing to raise my pilot to a 52 again and lower the needle to the 3rd clip postion. then I will agian lower the pilot if it does not respond like I expect. I plan to trought it on his dyno again this summer and do some fine tuning I will let you know what I end up at.

Have any of you used the cascade stuffers on your v-force 3 reeds or just running them like you got them.

lower left frame rail mine was coverd by powder coating.

When mine was leaking trans fluid it was not a fast leak it took time to show on the dipstick The fastest way is two pressure check your lower end is probably by blocking off your exhaust and intake and rig up a way to add air pressure and gauge to make sure it holds pressure for a little while there is a post on here where you are shown step by step how to do it

I would start with cleaning your carbs first to see if that helps and also check carb sink. I agree with the fact that you will smoke more out of the right cylinder if the crank seal is leaking but I'm surpised that it would cause that much run abilty problem. The nut on the right side of my crank was striped out which allowed oil into the cylinder but it still ran great just smoked on the right cylinder.

Second that on good snap ring plyers you'll need them the cheap ones will not do.

I'm not sure what you are trying to say when you say 10 inches wide I'm looking at dogulas whees and the wheel only comes in 8 inch and 9 inchs wide.

What width do most of you get 8" or 9" wide wheels for your 20x10x10 paddel tire riding dunes I'm thinging about 8" for a little more ground clearance and a little more on the top end drag a little but not much