DGFUNNY70

I've had this dilemma before once, twice, three times I've bought the 2's after selling them why because most people will tell you they make power over the 3's. Now they have 4's and their claiming their better pretty sure their not worth up gradeing to but if purchasing new reeds probably the way to go. The 4's are just so new and I figure it will be sometime before the verdict comes out on how they perform. I would love to see a few more dyno comparisons before making the leap. Vforce reeds are the way to go and people seem to run them more than any other reed system out there.

I've had custom cut domes in my bike for years from the last one at about 180lbs compression no issues. So I got ask have you contacted him yet and if no why not I know he'd help ya out.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? CPI's 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N 3) What filter setup? POD's 4) What is your elevation? 1100 feet 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 32.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 340 6.5) What postion is your needle in? 3rd clip 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 80 8) Do you have a port job? Yes / Redline Dune Port 9) What kind of carbs? Stock 10) What size carbs? Stock

Well either I'm gonna need to call Robert Stack, or I pissed someone off, or I'm headed in the right direction I hope its the last one.

Took the bike out yesterday to see how it was going to run made a few changes before leaving to Oregon on Thursday the 16th bike was running great was really happy with it. I did a couple of sixth gear pulls seemed to run strong. Got back to the truck and my brother wanted to take it for a spin he takes off sounds great 5 min later he’s headed back and its running like crap. Feels like a sever miss and will not get into power band this started right after he did a sixth gear pull in which he probably pushed the bike a little harder than I did. Checked the plugs and eventually changed them bike seemed to run a little better maybe new plugs or it cooled off a little. Bike starts and idles fine just feels like its missing under load. Got home checked some stuff out and took it for a test run and it runs better seems pretty strong just feels like its missing a little now. I've checked main jets they were good and tight found no obstructions in them. Checked reeds are in good shape no cracks. Checked fuel flow from tank fuel flows fine. Checked stator it ohms out fine. Plug caps ohm out fine. Spark plug wire to wire ohms out in spec. Coil from spade to spade ohms at .1 to point .2 seems a little off. Checked compression seems to be inline. Plugs are new. No tors never had it completely disconnected. Recently check bottom end compression held 6 for 6. Can't think of anything else I had checked if I missed something ask? I think it feels electrical but maybe I'm wrong.

I have a set of the ac's their the new style they have nets inplace of the aluminum heel guard. I like the ac's because they have the replaceable foot pegs.

Check out mull engineering that’s what I'm using and am very happy with it.

I've had pods on the entire time for about nine years or so no Problems yet. They have fallen off a time or two after I had just put them on installer error. Once I correctly installed them they have never fallen off jumping, dragging and hill climbing just take your time when you put them on only way to go in my opinion.

Well up top it feels pretty strong and I have ran 350's in the past and believe that they were consistent with the 340's but I have never ran anything bigger than that. I will have to try some bigger jets and come back with the results. As you can see from my plugs with the 340's both plug chops were consistent with each other so I was at least able to duplicate my results.

I guess I should have asked a different question's. I know for a fact that changing even one jet size can affect HP + or - 1 so. The 2mm rule on a plug chop is to get maximum HP and reliability out of you engine with the least give or take. I have posted a few pictures on photobucket and given you a link to look at them. What I would like is a few jetting experts to look at them and see if they can give me an idea where to go from there. The pictures may not be the greatest so from what I can see there is about a 1mm ring light black or possible gray on the base of the plug for those who know should I go 350 or 360 mains and sence I started tuning from the bottom up do you think I will have to change any of the other circuits. Thanks in advance for your good advice.

http://s1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc436/dgfunny70/?action=view&current=DSC00350.jpg Here is my first plug chop that looks successful to me. I'm at about 1000 feet above sea level and 77 degrees today. I am running 50/50 Sunoco 110 and premium gasoline and 50 to 1 amsoil. The rings on the plugs are about 1mm tall I would say. All my mods are in my signature for the bike. It’s been a few months sense the filters were cleaned maybe ridden about 50 hours or so I would guess. I was thinking I'm about a main or so lean from having it pretty much dead on. I also have a set of iridium plugs I was thinking of trying out but before I do that I think I will up my mains a size or two what do you think. Now I realize that 2mm is optimal for reliability would richening it up to 2mm affect the horse power and how much just curious.

I own both and ran both and really can't tell a difference. They say the 2's make a little more power depending on your setup. The bad about the 2's they are held together by screws and the pedals are harder to find. 3's newer technology make a little less power but no screws and pedals are easier to find. If all this is true I'll keep both not worth selling for a c note.

I have a stock Cylinder 4mill that I am very happy with I use it for shooting hill shots and the occasional drag race in the Oregon dunes. If you are near that area why not contract Cameron at redline racing in sweet home he does great work and is also a site sponsor. Cameron is a great guy and would be more than willing to discuss your options and if you live in the area that is the way I would go. If you got the money the Serval seems to be the hot item at the moment makes all the right horsepower and tq in all the right areas for duning.

I always run'em 3-5lb's depending on the constancy of the sand and how much traction I want. I was curious about this filling your tire to 20lbs and putting em in the sun for the day you been doing this long.

I use the one from fast it works great it’s easy to use and really quite fast I’d say that I don’t have to switch it between the two carbs more than 10 times and usually have them in sync in a couple of minutes.

I haven’t actually received them yet I just bought them a few days ago but from the pictures there are a few bolts that appear to be missing. I would like to get a tap and a few bolts before they show up so that I can get them back together as soon as possible. I have an Oregon trip coming up leaving the 25th so I'm trying to be a little extra prepared sense time is of the essence.

What size screw do the cpi's use in the end cap?

I typical ride at approximately the same altitude that you are currently at with one exception the temperature is about 60 to 90 degrees. There are typically too needles used in these carbs the JJH and the N68A needle I have used them both and had similar results. My mods are in my signature for reference. I would say you don’t need a 160 main with only pipes, air filters for mods. 155 Main, 52 Pilot, Air screw 1.5 turns out, JJH or N68A is what I have used. Below are a list of what I attempted and the results. Clip position #3 1/4 to 1/3 of throttle bog 3/4 throttle is mediocre in my opinion. Clip position #4 1/4 to 1/3 of throttle bog worse than before 3/4 pulls like a freight train. Clip position #2 1/4 to 1/3 of throttle bike runs great 3/4 bad is very lean does not pull hard. I would leave the 160 main in use a 52 pilot with the air screw 1.5 turns out and try the #2 needle clip position and see how it runs. I would then adjust the main until you find the happiest medium between ¾ throttle and full throttle. If there is anyone else out there that has a better solution I’m all ears.

I'm intrested as well if you decide to sell in the future.

It would be used below the clip. I don't know if you will find anything in a manual but they are intended to give you a half clip position if you needed it.

Redline Racing x6 Cameron has earned my engine building buisness for life. The only place that I will never do any buisness with that has been listed is topdog racing

I bought T-6's only to find out later they were best for a stock bolt-on setup luckily at the time Toomey would exchange them for T-5's if the T-6's were relatively new. T-6's for bolt on's T-5's if you are going to have some motor work done that's straight from Toomey.

You can see my set up in my signature I was just reading that some felt the 30mm oko's had a problem with the carb bowls running dry. Looking for everyone that has these carbs and if they have experienced this and if so what did they do to fix it. Also like to hear from those that don't believe that this is the case.

I am running 30mm oko's which are very similar to pwk 28mm. I am running 155 mains 52 pilots and a N68A needle in the middle clip position it runs real strong with this jetting but even with this jetting I feel I'm running a little rich. I would guess that you are running rich yourslef most people seem to run 155 to 152 mains, N68A or JJH needle in middle clip and pilot jets 52 or less.

It could be nothing but there are also a couple of things that it could be. 1. If you’re running a dual carb set up it could be a sign that your carbs are not in perfect sync or the left carb is running a little leaner. 2. When you said you just did a rebuild I'm assuming that you mean a top end rebuild? That being said it could be a leaky crank seal and it's leaking a little tranny fluid in to the right cylinder. I had just built my 4 mil and I noticed that it would smoke more at start up and it would go away and come back while riding. I final checked the lower end compression and there was a leak I could hear the air coming from the clutch case cover so I pulled out the dipstick and confirmed that the seal was leaking. I pulled the clutch cover off and come to find out the crank nut was stripped out and the crank gear was sliding in and out so it would only occasionally let oil into the cylinder. So does the smoke have an unusual smell that is a sign that you’re burning Trans fluid? Do you notice that you are adding crank fluid because it keeps going low is another sign?