CombatTalon2

Tucson is holding strong at 2.49 for 87 octane

If im using the 3.5" touchscreen LCD the entire time, i get about 1.5 hours. If i shoot with the view finder and dont mess with rewinding and watching it every 5 minutes, then i get almost 3 hours out of the battery...thats with a larger battery that i purchased with the cam. the batt that came with it is good for about an hour not using the Screen.

Go with a MiniDV cam and make sure its got (AV) in jacks. some of the cheaper ones only have (AV) out. Thats if you want to use a helmet cam with your camcorder. Stay away from the DVD units as they compress the video and if you want to edit on your computer, you will have to further compress it to make the video small enough to download, in the end MiniDV or Digital8 will look better than the DVD cam after editing! i have a Sony TRV38....and love it!

i was wondering how they got there......

The stops at the bottom of your steering stem are probably bent/worn.

i know this has been talked about several times before, and once again i will throw in my 2 cents.... Dont buy a new R6 as your first sport bike. Its just stupid. You will drop the bike (or worse) at some point. Would you rather drop a couple year old CBR600 or a brand new shiny bike. Anyway, my point is that I think you young guys should start out on a bit cheaper (to repair and initially purchase) bike. Get used to riding on the street and find out for sure that its something you want to do for sure. Then get a bigger bike or a new one. I started out on a 93 Kawi ZX-6 back when i was 16. Scared the shit out of me when I first got the bike. Insurance was high, but not as high as it would have been on a brand new sport bike. Anyway, you will do what you want anyway, so there is my 2 cents.

yeah, GPS is horribly inaccurate when you are going up and down hills.... I reset my gps at Glamis. Rode the entire weekend, then pulled it back out to see how far we had ridden and all that. It said my top speed was like 87 some mph, but there is no way i was going that fast, i never even topped her out in 6th all weekend!

Thanks for all the input. sounds like this is a good topic for debate...anyway, guess we will do some calling around to CA and AZ D.O.T. and see what they say. thanks again!

not really strange at all.....just math. that formula will always produce a number divisible by 9, so look at the chart and see that every number divisible by 9 is the same symbol!

His truck is 11,400 GVWR and the Trailer is 15,000 GVWR, according to the AZ DOT website that puts him above the 26,000 limit for tractor/trailer. I just need to find out if its for Rec only if he is good in Cali and Arizona. If you are from another state thanks for your input, but i think it differs state to state. AZ Dot CDL page

GVWR is what the CDL requirement is based upon....Because the Potential is there for you to haul that amount of weight.

Ok, Im asking this for a friend of mine. He bought a 33 Foot Fifth wheel Thor toy hauler. GVWR of that is 15,000 lbs. He has a 2003 GMC sierra dually w/ 8.1 motor and its GVWR is 11,400 lbs. So that puts him above the 26,000 lbs limit that i have found on the AZ MVD webpage. Now, since this is NOT a commercial vechicle, does he need a CDL? And if we drive into California, do the rules change? Any help would be appreciated in this matter!

yep, they are everywhere around here. I have really thought about gettin the shee street legal, but i would probably die or have a ticket 3 minutes after i got it on the road.

or move to a state like Arizona or Wyoming where ATVs can be street legal!

Yeah, if they are "like" K & N filters then you will need to oil them before you use them or they will not stop anything from going thru. If you were running an Airbox before you are probably gonna have to rejet to account for the extra air that will be going into your motor. probably a couple up on your mains and richen your needle a clip position. I would have just gone with the Uni Filters, but hey, whatever!

If you cant figure out stock carbs, do NOT get another set of carbs for this bike. Get a good understanding for jetting the bike you have with the stock carbs. Order the TORS removal kit and that will get rid of 50% of your problems right away. Once you get this you will wonder why it was so hard to get your mind around! trust me!

yes, i believe that you use those both to adjust your slide height (sync) and your idle. once your slides are in sync, then you adjust your idle using those knobs again, but this time you must make the same adjustment to both so the carbs remain in sync. Air screw will only help with the throttle response off idle, it wont do anything for you with the throttle closed. And yes the slides have a cut out that faces the rear of the bike, so it will look like the slide isn't completely down.

So did you get it going today???

no problem, you will get it figured out......!

Ok, if you dont have the idle screw the knobs on top of the tors are what control your idle.... you must (MUST) do a carb synch first, then turn those knobs at the same intervals to obtain a steady idle....(IE. if you turn the right one up a half turn, do the same for the other)

Ok, the whole reason you synch the carbs is so that the carb slide in each carb rises and falls at the same rate. So when you are looking at the slides (both at the same time) and you hit the throttle just enough to get one carb slide to rise up, the other should be doing the EXACT same thing. If they are NOT doing the same thing you will need to adjust whatever it is that you were adjusting on top of the TORS and see if it brings them into synch. I dont know for sure if you can do this with the intake still intact. As far as the Air Screw, turn it all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns. Same on both carbs. Do your carbs have the Idle screws?????? ( the ones in my pics that have the lock nut on them?) if they do, then it just makes it a little harder to get your throttle cables and carbs synched. As far as the slides go, if they are raised up too high it will keep your banshee from idling properly, make sure they are completely seated down in the carb, they should be resting on your idle screws if you have them. hope this helps a bit. Just make sure you count the turn on everything and do the same to the other carb.

I think the tors have a knob that changes the slide height (like the top nut in my pic) you may have to pull your airbox off to see if that is infact what it is adjusting. if it is adjusting the slide, then that would cause your problems. Just get a TORS remval kit and be done with. You will need to be able to view the slides inorder to Synch your carbs anyway, so just remove your airbox and check it out. atleast if you know your carbs are in synch, we can go from there.

ok, tors is basically deactivated then on your bike. here is a pic to show the two adjustment screws that you will have if you do the tors removal. the other (air screw) you have already. Air screw should be about 1- 1.5 turns out from fully seated in.

Yeah i know, i lived in the UK for a good 8 years of my life! I think it hit 100 in london a few years back! I lived near Cambridge in Suffolk.

Well today was the day. Day 39 of consecutive days above 100 degrees in tucson. Old record was 38 from 15 or so years ago. Got as hot as about 115 in tucson, phoenix was around 119 or so i believe, and Bull Head city hit 124 during this past month. Cant wait for the cool off to get here.....