CombatTalon2

The little screw in the middle of the clutch boss you turn it in or out untill the clutch arm (where the cable connects on the engine) lines up with the little arrow mark on the cases.

good call, never a bad idea, especially when they are just a couple bucks each.

clean out your carbs, and put fresh gas in her! may want to put some fresh gear oil in it too, im sure the stuff thats in there would work, but i would replace it. Also check your coolant and add or replace it.

its smoking because you mixed it 1:1 (one part oil to one part fuel) the Ratio 40:1 would be 40 parts fuel, to 1 part oil.....A lot less oil than what you were running. Get a Ratio Rite measuring cup and you wont be guessing on any of the measurements. Usually I mix in 5 gallon containers, and thats around 20 oz of oil at 32:1 or 16oz at 40:1. Hope that helps!

Another vote for Noss. Great product, and a Great guy to deal with. I had some issues with my setup, and he cut custom domes for me and had them sent out the next day. You dont find guys like David Noss everywhere. As far as compression, just make sure it gets checked before you go and run it on pump gas.

Thats what i run on my shee. I like them on my +2+1 A Arms. Banshee doesnt turn real well on the power with Skat Traks on the back, but these help.

did you test your Stator with a multimeter before you replaced it?

already tested the stator in accordance with the clymers. Dead on the windings (Red and Green Wires) Lighting was good, (yellow and Black) and pickup was good. The coil thing has me confused. I guess i can just order a new stator, throw it on and see if the coil is actually bad?

So I was riding glamis, about 3 miles from camp and the shee just died, not ripping, just rolling along about 1/4 throttle. anyway, tried new plugs, nothing, no spark at all. So the shee sat the entire weekend and i rode my CRF450. Anyway, i have since tested my electrical system. Kill switch is good, key is good, pickup is good, stator winding is BAD. Also, my coil is testing bad on the secondary test. Primary between the two terminals is testing good but as soon as i go to test between terminal and plug cap (with or without the cap on) i get OL no resistance. so which did i lose first? The coil, then the stator, or the stator then the coil? They would have had to go out simultaneously right? Did the stator fry the coil. Anyway, gonna order a new coil and stator in the next few days. Saw some discussion on ricky stator products, other options? comments please!!!

I don't think it matters unless you are in Cali. Red is limited riding, green is riding all year.

thanks, just exactly what i needed to know!

Ok, so both vents connect to a common vent line. Then it routes out below the swingarm? or does the end of the hose need to be higher than the vent openings? thanks

I know it routes up out of the case near the water pump. from there, it goes about a foot and then "Ts" off. I looked at a stock shee on a dealer lot but couldnt tell where it was going without digging into it. so if you know hook a brotha up! I think the way i had it routed the last time, was one of the hoses of the "T" was connected to the back vent fitting on the back of the cases. Thanks

As i was looking at my clutch case today I noticed that there is a hole in the cases to hold the end of the impeller. Putting a washer in there behind the impeller would space it out, and you would avoid having the washer on the impeller side?

unless i get them sleeved! Cross that bridge when I come to it I suppose!

All good points. I want to ride it obviously, and would like it to run good for whatever length of time i get out of it, so I guess spending the 70 bucks to get the right domes is really no big deal. Cutting some off the cylinder would be good if i could find someone to do it and make sure both cylinders remained the same height. The 20cc banshee domes i was running were only 66mm. Dont know if that would cause any problems with anything since im at 66.50 now? I dont know what my plans are for when its time to do my top end again. Either cheap cylinders off ebay, and paying again for porting, or just go with a cub. Who knows! Thanks for the replies!

Ok, so my engine is a 66.50mm bore. Yeah i know, im pretty thin! Stock stroke, 5mm long rod. Im running the blaster pistons and as far as i'm aware everything else is standard banshee stuff. I'm in the process of talking to David Noss to get my custom domes built and he expressed some confusion on my setup. While measuring my deck height i found that my pistons don't protrude out of the cylinder, or even come close to being even with the top of the cylinder. Actually im about 1.15mm down in the cylinder. Now the standard banshee domes that i was running have a .85mm depth, giving me 2mm (.079") squish measurement. So i guess my question is this normal for a 370 Long rod running blaster pistons? David is gonna make me some domes with no gap between where the head meets the cylinder (meaning the curvature of the dome starts right where the head meets the cylinder) This is inline with what the stock milled head looks like. this will also give me a squish of about .043 which from what i read is about right. A hell of a lot better than .080 like it was.

I will be out there for T day as well. Just putting the shee back together today from the clutch coming apart. Cant wait to dune the Banshee again. We are usually in wash one, or two, all the way at the end near the dunes (not the tracks).

Pro Design here as well.

Was noticing that today while i was putting my engine back together. Looks like the impeller rubs a bit on the inside of the pump cavity. I will try the washer and see how that works out!

I figured out what the needle bearing looking thing was. Its the pin that holds the water pump gear (the plastic one) in place. Glad i didn't dump my oil catch pan!

I will be in wash one 26-29th.

I made one trip with my 1500 Z71 with 3.42 gears pulling my 5,500 lbs (dry) toy hauler to glamis from tucson. I now have a 2500HD with a 6.0 and 4.10 gears. Its no Duramax, but pulls that toy hauler a hell of a lot better than the 5.3. Now i can load the trailer and put all the bikes in and not have to worry about being over my GCVWR.

Ok, so who has the scoop on the numbering for the Drive/Driven gears on the banshee (Clutch Basket, Crank Gear) I toasted my first set a few weeks ago and just got my replacement off ebay. My stock numbers are either 63B or 638 on the clutch basket gear and 92 on the crank gear. The Clymers says to keep these numbers matched. My new basket is 65B/658 and 90. so whats the deal?

Thanks Guys!