CombatTalon2

yeah, don't go in the summer. You will be sorry. I took my new toy hauler out there last year in august and it was 116 one of the days according to the lady at the beach store. There were about 5 other camps total. You could only really ride at night and right away in the morning before the sun came all the way up. We drove my buddy's Tacoma around during the day with the AC on full blast, and it was still so hot. Really not any fun at all! only nice thing was that all the sand was pristine. Glamis looks different in the summer. We went to lizard and China and I hardly recognized the hills!

Glamis wash one for easter (21-23) hopefully getting in early on friday! Cant wait, put a new Stage 2 cam in my CRF 450!

Here is the gift certificate #1123GC

damn, i just spent 300 bucks last night on a pipe for the wifes LTZ and a Cam for my CRF..... oh well

13.25 +2 tie rods

yeah that sucks when you dont get what you pay for. Hopefully they will make it right with you, after all the shit they forgot to send you!

no problem!

15.5" on my quicksand +2 Arms.

It's either domes cut, or run the spacer...... running the longrod only means he needs to run the 795 series pistons. The Extra 2mm higher stroke requires the domes cut or the spacer plate!

i had an electrosport dual output stator in my shee. Dont know how long it was in there because i purchased the bike with it already installed. It shorted out and melted. It has since been replaced with an RS hight output stator. The stator worked find. The two outputs is kinda nice. They are not equal output either. I had the high output wiring going to my stock lights and the lower output going to my Alluminators..... Always wondered why they were not as bright as I would have liked. Overall, its an ok stator.

If the brand you have is Electrix then there may be 2 yellow output wires. Thats the way my old electrix stator was.

out of the stator is Red, Green, White/green, and White/Red. They correspond with the same color wires on the wiring harness. And a Yellow and Black, for lighting.

should be able to remove the connector off the stock stator and use that with the new stator wiring. I can tell you what color RickyStator wires hook up to the banshee wires.

Yep, there are two different connectors for the banshee. 87-94 and 95 and up.

Yep, port that bad boy, and you will be smokin rappy 700s up Olds all day long!

My Dyna info says that curve 4 is the same as the stock curve on the stock ingnition. So you could run your timing plate with your dyna, you just need to be sure you are on curve 4, or disconnect the switch from the module I believe that sets the dyna to curve 4 (stock). You had me scared that i was running a 9 degree advance there for a minute.

same head that I have. Dave was great getting my custom domes made! A+ all the way!

I did end up running all new wiring for my lights. 14 AWG...overkill im sure but im happy. I got an AC switch rated for 125V and 30 Amps, so i hope im not gonna burn that switch up. works great, and should be able to add my other two lights very easily to my current setup without going over the reccomended 125 Watts. thanks guys I think i will ditch the factory headlight/kill switch for something similar to the ricky stator setup, or just go with a dirt bike kill switch.

I had this exact problem the other day. I opend up the cap and removed the piece of cloth that is just a filter i assume, after i removed it and put the check balls back in place i have NO Leak at all. I run an inline fuel filter, so if the vent tube sucks some dust im not too worried about it.

ok, so 14AWG and what about the switch?

Ok, got my new Ricky Stator 200w stator installed last night. Im running the Ricky Stator Aluminator dual MR16 light setup, and NO stock lights. currently i have 2 50w MR16 bulbs (total draw 100w) I used the Ricky stator regulator, and wired that all up and lights work great. I was running a guarded toggle switch but I burned that up at the dunes a while back and just wired the light to stay on constant. Question is what switch do i need to get that can handle the 200w at 12v, or how do i wire a relay for my switch and what rating does the relay need to be. I would like to be able to upgrade to full 200w lighting in the future so i don't want to limit myself by installing a relay that is not rated for 200w. Also, what AWG wiring should i be running for these lights? I tried searching, but im coming up empty. I think im running either 16 or 18 AWG right now? Thanks guys

tried with the caps on and off, no differance on the secondary winding test. I have a Stator coming in tomorrow, so i will get that on and hope that is my problem. thanks

Thats the old quicksand website. There are some issues with the host for the current Website. Hopefully it will be back up soon. you can still get in touch with Gary though. [email protected] or 480 495 5932

if you are gonna do an actual flush, you will want to use deionized water, and run it thru a few times before you refill with coolant or engine ice. I think Engine ice recommends using deionized water and vinegar to remove the deposits in the cooling system. Happy flushing :biggrin:

there is enough resistance between the clutch fibers and steels that you will transmit that motion from the flywheel thru to the countershaft sprocket even with the clutch pulled in. Place the bike in neutral and turn the flywheel while holding the countershaft sprocket. you should be able to hold the CS Sprocket still while the flywheel is being turned. Now place the bike in 1st Gear. When you turn the flywheel, the CS sprocket will now turn as you try to hold it. for the next one you would probably need a 2nd person or a zip tie or something holding the clutch in. Bike in 1st Gear, turn the flywheel with clutch pulled in. CS sprocket will turn, but you should be able to stop it with light pressure from your toe or some other body part you can stick in there.