GEEZR

Just got back from my 1st ride with the clear braided PVC hose. No problems (yet). They do tend to get soft and very plyable. I will keep my eye on them tho. I still have the original hoses in my truck just for back up. These clear things look Ssswweeet !!!

Has anyone ever used one of those spring loaded cylinder hones on their shee, you know the kind that attaches to your electric drill that your average Joe Shmo gets from the auto parts store? I'm just wondering if the time should ever come when I need to rebuild my top end that I could save $ by doing it myself. Or would I just be better off sending my cyl's out to a shop? Thanks for any input. Oh, yeah , I believe Pep Boys sells them for about $29.95

Does anyone here remember back in the late 60's and early 70's of the infamous Barstow to Vegas race? There must be some older folks here that recall that event. I was too young back then to partipate . Sure must have been a blast tho. Too bad the Eco Freaks and the BLM put a stop to that(from what I hear) .

I call my banshee : bitch , and my bitch : banshee. I get the 2 confused sometimes.

Any room left in that pool? Move aside I'm jumpin in! :biggrin:

I would'nt recommend starting up your shee with that piaece of solder in your cylinder. What I've done is disconnect spark plug wires , remove carbs, and intake manifolds, then placed a 1 in. length of (1/8 dia.) pc. of solder on top of piston , moved kick starter by hand just to get piston to " squeeze" it , then remove and measure the thinnest section w/ your mikes. Hope this helps. good luck.

The compression domes in my pro design cool head are at 1 mm (.040) squish. Seems to run fine. Even that seems a bit tight. Next time I take out the domes I'll set them up in the lathe and trim some fat off.

M8 X 1.25

I used to live in Canoga Park. You could try LB racing in Simi Valley. 805 522-4717. good luck.

I just got a 6 ft. pc. of the clear braided stuff last night at the local hardware store. $5 bucks. Thanks for the tip, I'll try the boiling water trick.

$90 to a 100 BUCKS !!! :baseball_w00t: YIPES !!! Yeah, I've seen that stuff at Lowe's . I think I'll give it a try. I just wonder what the max. temp rating is on it though. thanks.

I'm seeing more and more bikes out there with clear plastic tubing for their radiator hose. Does anyone know specifically what type of plastic they're using? PVC ? TYGON ? I think it looks pretty cool .

I just got a set of Meiers stockers front and back fenders, and had no probs here. Everything fit BEE YUU TEEE FULLLY...

OK, I have the torque wrench and I'd like to tighten the cylinder base nuts to 20 ft/lbs , and I'm having a hell of a time getting a socket in those tight quarters. Especially the 2 inner ones under the exhaust ports. Does anyone know of a special wrench that fits in there? I'm not exactly ready to go to the yamaha dealer and buy one (if they do have such a tool) They'd prolly ask $400 bills for one. thanks for any advice. :ermm:

As long as your bike runs fine with it on , keep it. I borrowed one from some dude camped next to me one time at the dunes just to see what it was like , so I rode around for a few minutes with it on and not noticed one friggen bit of difference. just my .02 cents.

Thanks to all for this great advice. Good idea to keep the cheezy plastic impeller just for backup beacause I'd like to gat one of those aluminum pro design ones. You know, It's funny, the impeller was white in color when I bought the bike new in 96' , now it's green from the coolant. :baseball_shocked:

What a sickening discovery. I've just recently removed my clutch cover to inspect the water impeller and the ball bearing is not only blueish in color , but it does'nt even turn. The plastic gear teeth are OK , but the small grooves for the pin are stripped. Man, that bearing is blitzed!! Has anyone ever replaced their water impeller bearing ? And what kind of nightmare was it to extract it? Thanks for any info.

I often wonder how those rocket scientists at yamaha come up with the little numbers marked on the sides of the main jets. I have a pair of 280's that has hole diameters of about .057 inches. Does anyone know of some equation to this? just curious.

55 mm (2.165 inches across flats).

I plan on totally doing my shee in yellow. My front ,and rear fenders are cut. PM me, [email protected] I could send some pix. Thanks, to anyone interested.

Or better yet, fuel injection perhaps. :baseball_w00t:

Thanx BigRed, that's genious man.. Even when I bought my shee brand new in 96' it still dribbled fuel . I will clean and inspect the carbs tho.

Ya'll know them overflow fuel lines dangling underneath the tranny from the carbs? Well, I was just wondering if there are any remedies for this. Dirt really collects on my swing arm, relay arm, shock , axle, etc.. I'd hate to just plug em because my carbs would flood out. :ermm:

Well, according to my banshee Clymer manual, 22ft. lbs. lower A-arms, and 28 ft.lbs. upper A-arms. These are the torque specs for the bolts that attach the a-arms to the frame.

I came up with 385 also.