GEEZR

DRI4 is right, and make absolutely sure that the o-rings are not "on" the threads. Coolant will somehow find it's way up the studs and puddle up on top of your cool head , I've been there before. Also ,(as I've been told) the reason for the weird color of the o-rings on the domes is because they're a "silicone" based rubber for high temp. applications. Hope that helps somewhat.

I did exactly what woodrow77 did, I chucked them as far as I could . They were meaningless.

Thanx, everyone for these valuable tips. I can remember removing a broken stud in one of my bro's cyl's and it was a Mo Fo ' to get out even w/ an easy out because of lock-tite issues. I work in a machine shop and intent to make custom studs outa 304 stainless steel. Thanks again folks you all rock.

I'm rebuilding my top end and some tell me to use Locktite on the studs and others tell me it's not really needed. What do ya'll suggest?

As a general rule of thumb, I believe .003 clearance is what you want.

M14 X 1.5

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try .

I'd like to really clean up my toomey T5's . I'm trying to find something that will remove the blue discoloration around the exaust area. I've tried Mother's chrome polish and it did'nt even phase it. Any suggestions??

jankab is right. Another way that I've discovered is that there are little round sight glass windows on the right sides of both carbs. I look for the little indentations on the slides to match up with the windows , that way I know there in correctly.

Well, what I do is I take a 5 lb . sledge hammer and a center punch and WHACK!! a Big O' GnArLeY ding in the threads so that them thar nuts aint never gonna slip. Just my .04 cents.

Well, I'm gonna rebuild my top end this summer. My bike is bone stock except for Toomey T5 's pro-design cool head K&N's w/outer wears , That's it.. But my cylinders are .062 oversized. Is that too much? What precautionary measures shouild I take before rebuilding? Or should I resleeve ? I just want it to run with reliability in the dunes "Only". No hill shots or drags I just want to go back to dune cruising , that's all. Thanx for any advice. .

Does anyone know where I could take my shee for a thorough dyno testing in southern California ?

My Toomey T5's are the best thing I ever invested for my shee, and after 10 years of riding in the dunes, they're holding out great. But, they could sure use replating , paint job even? I don't know. How would it be if I sent them back to Toomey for rechrome? would it be worth it? Has anyone ever sent they're pipes back to the manufacturer for replating?

Thanks a bunch folks for the info. I'm goin for a spin this coming weekend, I'll let ya know how it turns out.

My brother just gave me a 5 gallon can on of Trick 102 octane race gas ,problem is tho, it contains lead. What happens if I run my shee on this stuff.?? My bike is ported w/160 psi compression and normally use 100 oct.unleaded, and so far it runs just perfect. Thanks for any info.

Dude, I've got the very same set up you got.My B8EV's are still doin great. I have about 50 hours riding time over the past 3 years and no problems. What's your compression? Mines 160 in both cylinders, I use Trick 101 race gas,32:1 I ride Glamis and DuMont only.

I remember when I bored and honed my cylinders there were sharp edges to chamfer out of the port areas.I used 240 grit emery cloth. I only chamfered the horizontal edges and not the vertical ones since the pistons move parallel to the vertical ones anyway. All in all it was a pain in the effen ass but I did it. I just wanted to bolt the top end back together and ride the SOB.

My rims arent really bent ,they're kinda scratched up and very gray from riding in the sand(sand blasted so to speak). After polishing them with mother's alum.polish I'm allways hesitant to go riding. I think I'll take the stock rims and have them chromed Yeah, lepew, the cycle shops and even tire shops in my area will rake me big time . like, $25.00 a wheel. thanx again.

Thanks lepew, and sredish. The tires that are on my shee are paddles and dune trackers(since I ride sand only). But the Douglas alum. rims are lookin kinda shabby , the tires themselves are just fine. I'm kinda in the market for newer rims and would have liked to mount them my self and save a little $$$$ but I guess it's not worth the frustration Looks like I'll be takin a hike to the cycle shop soon. Thanks again y'all.

Hi folks. Perhaps this topic has been discussed on this BB a number of times before.But since I'm a newbie to the board, I suppose I missed it. Has anyone ever removed their tires from their rims and wanted to try installing newer ones?? I've got a bead breaker tool ,but that's all it's good for."man, It's nothing like bicycle wheels".I'd hate to take my wheels to a tire service center to swap out the rims. I'd sure like to have one of their machines though. thanks.