BrianEb

Where are u located in MI?

How do you graduate from a rookie to a novice, pro just curious

I have the tether kill switch already installed . I followed BlueTraxx.com's instructions to install it to the solinoids orange wire But that still leaves the red on/off switch and the Headlights working. Maybe there is another way to do it

I would like to clean-up my handle bar area by removing the red on/off switch and the light switch that lets you switch your lights to hi-lo beam. I've seen this on some shees before but I don't know what it entails. I've already relocated my key to under the seat to clean -up that part of the handle bar. Maybe someone out there knows what I'm talking about

Thank you sounds like you have some experience in this area? Did something like this happen to you?

Hopefully this has not happen to anyone. But here goes my explaination. My shee rolled over a couple of times and bent my steering stem and the bar that is shaped like an upside down "U" that is welded to the chassis. The upside down "U" bar also has a tab that is welded to it where you screw in your plastic around your gas tank. My question is what can I use to pull that bar back out so there is a gap about a 1/2 of an inch between that bar and the gas tank.

The Plunger that was the problem it was not moving in Now it works!!! I'm happy boy now! Thanks you FIRST BANSHEE dude!

Go to the Toomey website again, go to the T-6 installation instruction, download the pdf file and in there they describe how to properly vent your airbox. Toomey has been at it a long time, so read there instructions and do as they say. But yes you will have to rejet. I would start with a 280 main as they suggest. And you will have to move the clip down on the needle one. Take your time and do one carb at a time

I did solder them together and tape them up with electrical tape. If the wires came apart I don't believe I would be able to start it. I will have to check my ground wire. What do you mean to make sure the plunger is moving on the kill switch. Thanks you two for all your help

Go to the Toomey Website. http://www.toomey.com/ Toomey recomends 10 1" Diameter holes. 6 on the back of the air box, two on the left and right sides of the air box near the back. I attached there install pdf instructions. That should give you a real good idea on how to vent your air box peace

I'll try to make this quick: I installed the new kill switch according to the directions on the BlueTraxx.com web site. Everything went together smoothly, when I started the shee up and pulled on the tether cord it killed the motor just like it was susposed to. The problem happen later when I was out riding and showing it to my buddies and pulled on the tehter cord It did not kill the motor, The motor just kept running. at least it worked once. Does anyone know what the problem could be?

I'm putting on a new Durablue Axle I bent my stock one. The Clymer tells you to remove your wheels, castle nuts, wheel hubs and then loosen your axle nuts. But it is hard to get leverage to loosen the axle nuts when the wheels and hubs are already off. I think I'm going to have to put the wheels and hubs back on and then loosen the axle nuts first. Thanks for the help!

When you are removing your two rear axle nuts that up against the sprocket hub should you take off your chain before removing the nuts?

I was thinking about putting on my T-6's by myself. Changing the Main and Needle Jets myself. I've read the Toomey directions over & over again. Just wondering what kind of pitfalls I should look out for on tackling this type of job. The dealers & hop up shops in Michigan want at least $200.00 to tackle this type of job. What does everyone think can a semi rookie pull this job off. The only part that I really don't understand is the spring where the needle jet is located trying to compress that spring after you have changed needle jets, to put it back into the carb any insight would be greatly appreciated

I was thinking about putting on my T-6's by myself. Changing the Main and Needle Jets myself. I've read the Toomey directions over & over again. Just wondering what kind of pitfalls I should look out for on tackling this type of job. The dealers & hop up shops in Michigan want at least $200.00 to tackle this type of job. What does everyone think can a semi rookie pull this job off. The only part that I really don't understand is the spring where the needle jet is located trying to compress that spring after you have changed needle jets, to put it back into the carb any insight would be greatly appreciated

I was doing routine coolant maintenance on my 03 shee. I drained the left side coolant after loosening the bolt & than the right side and unhooked the water pump hose and let that drain. But when it came time to tighten the coolant bolt back on the left side cylinder, the threads inside the cylinder just melted away like butter when I went to torque it down to 7ft pounds of torque. Te engine was also cold when I performed this operation. Can someone tell me how to do a Tap and then a Time-Sert Install. Also is this a common problem on all ATV or just the Banshee I was totally bummed out

World Class in Michigan a Mail Order Company there are in Dirt Wheels Mag Sells the Magnum Brand Aluminum Radiator for $275.00 I don't know if there any good or not. The ProDesign Brand is listed at $499.00 that is almost half the price. I wonder if you get what you pay for? If anyone is running a Magnum Brand Radiator I would like to here from them

I was riding @ The Mounds in MI. for about ten minutes when I climbed up this hill and stopped I notice there was steam coming from my stock pipes. Here is my question did some radiator fluid from my resorvoir spill on my pipes, or was my radiator already overheating. I know you can move that resorvoir tank behind your air box and reroute it up front but if that resorvoir tank is behind your airbox how does it spill on your pipes

Do you still have that frame where at in Michigan do you live? I might be interested if you still have it. I live in MI also

I have good news and bad news First the good news the nerf bars with pro pegs and heel guards look great. Now the bad news the right side nerf bars have a bar built into the heel guard that screws into the right rear frame tab, that is a good thing. but on the left side (the shifter side) that portion of the nerf bars with the heel guard does not have a bar that can screw into the left rear frame tab. I don't understand is that a design flaw? Also a few more complaints there were no directions with these nerf bars. and the directions on the website were not up to date with the Banshee with pro pegs & heel guards. Once you get done scratching you head for a while it a pretty easy to figure out. Step One start on the left side first, do not tighten bolts all the way yet. Step two work on the right side still do not tighten bolts all the way Use pry bar to lift nerf bar high enough to to screw into right rear frame tab. Use the longest bolt that is threaded all the way into your top frame bolt motor mount you will have to take out your stock one. Do the same for the left side. Finally drill a hole in the X spot of the pro peg with a 5/16" bit to keep it from sliding off your peg mounts

Thank you for the info everybody I will try to see what you guys are talking about when I take off the stator cover

If you get a nylon Case Saver from Custom Innovations they tell you it is easy to install, but if you use a stock stator side cover, you will need to remove the piece from the cover that sticks out into the sprocket housing. I don't understand what they are saying. Are they saying that you have to cut your stock stator cover some how? And has anyone out there have a picture of what they are talking about? before I get a $30 dollar part I want to make sure I don't need a $300 3pc. stator cover

Thanks for the info guys I really appreiciate it. I already have the Clymer manual and I do read it from time to time just so I know where things are located, I just wanted to be 100% sure when I start working on this machine so I don't f@*% anything up. You see I always raced and jumped BMX type of bike never anything with a motor so now that I'm older I'm getting into this sport and I guess I need more practice on motors to get confidence

Does anyone know of a place in Michigan where u can go and learn about your 2-stroke Banshee motor? Some sort of class you could take at a vocational school or something. I want to learn the ins and outs of this motor so my 2003 banshee won't become the Ginny Pig, and always have to keep taking it apart and never getting a chance to ride it. It was just a thought I had

Thanks for the info. I'm going to have to talk to some more people and look for more sites on how to become a jetting expert. The filter I have right now is a GYT- 2-Stage foam filter those are pretty good for all around riding. and if you get new pipes a two stage filter comes with the Toomeys