J-Madd

Maybe the jetting plays a role in how it acts with the slides in backwards as well. When mine were in wrong it would sputter UNTIL it got into the powerband, then run pretty good, just very rich.

Raise the clip on the needle (lowering the needle) 1 groove and see how if that helps.

That's just completely not true regarding the slides. Put them in backwards and see for yourself.

Mine was ported by Louie.

Don't see why you're comparing a 380 cc DUNE ported stock cylinder to a 460 cc billet. Should be no contest anyway.

Too lazy to do the math. What bore is that? My 16 mil Twister is only a 570 cc. 72 bore, If I remember. Its a turd that hasn't made a pass down the track due to lots of bad luck (burnt o-rings twice, clutch problems, etc.)It definitely has lots of potential, however.

It'll be interesting to see how it performs without being ported. Keep us posted.

It seems like their serial cable is assbackwards though????. It's female instead of male (or vice versa) and won't fit any of my laptops. I haven't looked for the serial to usb adapter to fit their plug (don't mess with the dyna much anymore) but I do have a usb to serial adapter plug for my Predator Diablo programmer for my Challenger..haven't checked to see if it works with the dyna, but I don't think it will.

Just follow the Clymer manual for the engine and you'll be fine. As far as the chassis tear down, just keep up with everything. I have found that the longer you have everything apart, the more nuts, bolts, fasteners, etc, that are missing...regardless of how well you boxed everything up. Then again, I'm real bad about borrowing from one bike/build to another, then forgetting what I stole from what bike, and what needs to be replaced/ordered, etc.

Throw a space plate on there and see how it runs. Like you said, it's not gonna be ridden much anyway.

E-mail is probably the best way to contact them but I wouldn't hold my breath. I wanted to trade the $100 POS serial cable that only fits 10 year old desktop computers for the USB cord. They said I could pay $100 for the USB cord, but not trade, I had only had the ignition for about 10 months, and I bought it directly from Dyna.

Back to back runs? What about TQ and what did the curve look like? Thanks for the info.

I just had my RDZs ceramic coated satin black for $150. They look nice. 3 day turnaround. He also does powder coating with similar turn around. One of my duner chassis cost $250 to do.

I don't think I have ever seen any (what I would consider) hand coned/built RDZs either, but I think we are just talking about the off-the-shelf stamped versions of Shearer/RDZ.

Ya know the 1-6 overrides are out right? BUT, what your wanting to do seems to be appropriate. In 300 ft I (and some others) have found it difficult to gear 1-4 to lay down optimal times.

Are you familiar with porting Banshee cylinders?

link?

bigboybanshee is probably close to your weight and he has run 3.8s I believe on his 10 mil DM. If not 3.8s I know for certain he has run low 3.9s.

Yeah, but it seems a lot of folks don't run the ignition interrupt and just run them with overrides. I'd think interrupting the ignition, albeit very briefly, would be detrimental to a 300 ft race. Running 8th or quarter mile asphalt......maybe not as big of an issue. jmo.

Good 4 mil stock cylinders and stock stroke cub (68mm bore = 392 cc) are comparable in 300 ft times. 72 mm bore is the Super Cub and requires a little case work. Not sure is stock stroke is offered in that or not. Don't see why it shouldn't be, but I'd stay away from it for the cost.

Just to clarify, RDZ does make their own pipes. And stamped pipes are not considered hand built pipes.. Whether or not they are Shearer copies, or were at one time actually Shearer's,I don't know and don't care. They are outstanding pipes.

My 16 mil had a Pingel air shifter on it when I got it. I took it off. I didn't see the need for it; and it added weight. It was air over air; no solenoids or anything that would allow you to have it shift automatically based on engine rpms. Let us know how it works for you if you decide to go that route.

I know where there is a 4 mil super cub complete with head, domes, and pistons for sale for $1000.

He's running low 3.9s on his 10 mil DM now.