J-Madd

Don't worry about the cable until you get the actuator set. It sounds like you know how to do that. ON the clutch lever on the handle bars, normally you want a little play. I dont' remember the spec , but you don't want it so tight that the clutch stays engaged. Maybe about a nickels width between the perch and lever before you really feel tension. I always run mine just tight enough so the it doesn't want to creep forward with the clutch pulled in...it's safer running it loose than tight. You can literally fry a clutch in minutes if you run it too tight.

The clutch actuator arm should point straight back when you push on it by hand until resistance is met. If it's adjusted correctly, you probably just need to tighten the clutch cable.

I would think a +8 would be a little short for hill shooting. 16/43 gearing with those 12 pdl haulers would probably be a decent start. Maybe others will chime in that actually hill shoot. I just run flat ground.

If its rich and still revving clean its safe. Probably not much peak hp loss. My 421 dynoed the same with the pj 2 turns apart. The 421s seem to be very tolerant to variations in fuel:air and timing as well. I run mine at 9*, but I only run 300 ft.

AHHHH....ok, that makes sense. Yeah, like mentioned you can easily get a 17t in there. I have seen what I believe was a 20t before. I think it had to be from a street bike. I think the case had been worked on to get it to fit in there, though.

Whats' done to your motor that you need a 17t sprocket? Running 1/4 mile? A stock (bolt on modded) motor won't efficiently pull a 16/41 in 6th gear.

Use lots of red loctite! You could also re-tap it for a different pitch or size bolt if you could find one with the right head.

I'm sure you have the timeloc clutch for that and a big ass chain - that's gonna try to rip the motor out of the frame! Good luck with the build.

I can't tell much from the pics either. I can't tell if all of the plating has been burned off of the plug, or if it hasn't built enough heat to burn any of the plating. The porcelain looks a little dark. How is it running? Does it get hot? Sometimes you can feel of the transfers on the sides of the cylinders, then feel of the pipes after a WOT pass. If the transfers are hotter than the pipes you may be a little on the lean side. If the pipes are a lot hotter than the transfers you're almost definately rich.

A big improvement over stock for sure, but not 10 hp. Be sure he re-jets his carbs.

Yeah, mine ran 4.0s to 4.1s at 74 - 76 mph, 1.45 60 ft also. I never got it in the 3s with me on it (185 lbs). My light buddy went low 3.9s at 80 mph on it. 3.8s on anything without a bar seems questionable.

I don't see 70 mm in the 573 series pistons (Blaster piston).

Maybe he's talking about the inner hub THose are very reasonable for OEM parts.

Put me on the list too, Jeff!

The quality of the portwork is much more important that the bore size on those. It doesn't matter if its 80 mm if the port work is crap. Also, I have read that the bigger sleeves take too much away from the transfer area in stock cylinders to notice much of a gain.

K&N pro flo without lid gets my vote. I didn't notice any difference going to pods, other than water getting sucked in. Note that I also occasionally got water in the box, too.

It's called "clutch chatter." Don't worry about it. Never heard of putting diesel in the crank case, though. Don't know what that can do the the clutch fibers

I your cases are apart, and you have the extra money, you could go with the billet 2nd. I don't think it is at all necessary with that motor though. I ran the hell out of my 14 mil Cheetah (best e.t. of 3.68 with a jockey) and never had tranny problems. I don't remember the HP cutoff for a stock 2nd, but it's probably somewhere around 150 - 160 ? I'm debating putting a billet second in my 16 mil twister. I'm going from 72 mm bore to 78 mm bore while it's apart from a grenaded crank bearing on the dyno.

A good 4 mil DM will be a little much for a stock frame.

Unplug the TORS - the little black box under the left front fender. I don't remember if that takes care of the parking brake problem or not. You can follow the wire from your parking brake lever (clutch lever) down to where it can be unplugged, or just cut it.

Have you unplugged the tors and parking brake switch?

By re-reading Blewbyu's post j/k. THe fuel inlets are pointed down on the pumpers. You'll also need to put some chokes in those.

10 mil Vitos cylinder, painted black would be the ultimate sleeper. Beer+hill climbing = bad. I know from first hand experience myself. A few stitches and bruises, but nothing major.

If you set all the way on the front, you may get by with a +8. It'll be scary when it tries to come up though. No offense about your motor, but I don't think many can get 120 hp out of a 4 mil Cub - especially not Trinity. However, they're 100 hp out of the box all day long [alky] (tuned or untuned, imo.) So if the porting has gained any hp over that, that's always a plus I think you'll have a hard time trying to get the best of both worlds with that setup (hillshooting and duning).

I'd say a +12 swinger and some 12 - 14 pdl extremes, or maybe a +10 and some 10 - 12 pdls.