J-Madd

Be sure to clean out your exhaust pipes. That's where a lot of the metal probably is.

Exactly. Without the washer the dump tube/emulsion tube/needle jet/ whateveryouwanttocallit can go up into the body of the carb.

I am almost certain Millenium can fix that. It'll still be cheaper than buying new cylinders; and they always look like brand new when you get them back.

Your running OEM Blaster pistons?

I've had to use fix-a-flat before, even after bead sealer was used.

I wouldn't go with a pump to run 300 ft with a 10 mil Cub. You barely need billet bowls (may not need them at all, but I wouldn't chance it on a 10 mil). A pump is just one more headache to deal with. You can run the 39 PWKs, 41 Lectrons, 38 TM Mikunis. All would be good choices. Just choose the one that your more familiar tuning. I love the Lectrons on my 10 mil Cub, but I run 38 and 39 PWKS on my other Cubs.

I don't have any references to show that this is absolutely the OEM curve. I got this from a friend on Planet Sand years a go, and have always considered it the stock curve. That's what I would program my dyna to (and add timing in the curve across the board.) As far as the other curves on my graph: I never got to try any of those. The Dyna took a dump before I even got to make a pass. Note that you can bring the timing back up in the overrev to keep making a little power that would otherwise not be there (Per Tim@Titan Racing). BUT I never got to run it like that, so I claim no responsibility for engine failure!

I think its the white one (curve 4). Here's another look at it.

Most important thing is to start way rich and work your way down. The first pass down the track on a new setup I like it to spew alky all the way down the track. You may not want to run a full 1/4th mile like that, as you'll probably run the bowls dry. I assume you have a dual pingel, gutted gas cap, and billet bowls. Suggestions above are a good starting point on timing, etc.

My 10 mil Cub is 0.052" and 210 psi. I think I'm gonna tighten the squish a tad and lower compression before next year. My 78 mm bore Twister is at 0.048" It goes down to 0.042" if you check both sides of the piston at the same time. Flat top piston, though, if that matters. I've ran a 421 Cub at 0.038" and at 0.050" with the same results at the track.

Very thorough. I just take the plate loose and get the dremel cutting bit and widen the mounting holes on the plate as far as they will go and call it good. I don't even unplug the stator, and don't remove the pickup coil.

When it locked up the first time, it probably had a broken piston skirt and pieces of thebroken shirt got on top of the piston and into the spark plug. Or the piston seized; then damage to the piston/rod, etc occured when you pull started it. Just a theory... Those prices listed are high (in US dollars.) Also, anytime a motor even tries to lock up; tear it down and inspect it. I had some crank bearings going out and it would drag the motor down so that it wouldn't idle (just about to lock up.) I tore it down and didn't find any damage (not even the bearings) but replaced the questionable crank bearing anyway. Ran fine after that.

Miller light for me! Not sure about going all week next year. Just weekend.

Yeah, a motor shouldn't be able to run period on #290 AND #400 mains. A motor that was pig rich (but still ran, and cleaned out) with 400s would burn down with 290s. And a motor that was way lean with 290s (but would still run) would still be so fat it wouldn't get out of its tracks with 400s in it. JMO. AK is right, you fix the leak and you'll probably have to go down on jetting. Ok to start where your at though, and go down from there.

Yeah, that's what the ad from Dan claimed to be hp. I was at Leerjak when he tried to run it (on a stock chassis with no bar!) You're right, he never gave it a chance. It was a pain in the ass just to get it assembled on the chassis (so he said - I didn't help.) You should know me from Planet Sand race - my brother and I were parked/camped accross from Eric's trailer.

Never heard of changing premix when going up on jet size. That's a new one to me. On alky for example, the jets are (for arguments sake) twice as big; but most run a richer premix ( I run 20:1 on alky). Using your logic you would reduce it to 50:1 or leaner.I could see the argument to run less oil on alky (or a richer main jet) because there is inherently more oil being introduced into the motor; but I just always go the safe route. Interesting theory.. Spidy - the oil has nothing to do with your problem. It's probably just the intake boot (as mentioned).

The properties of gold would make it unsuitable for a crankshaft. The melting point is way too low, and its too soft of a metal.

Are there any turbo Banshees out there laying down good numbers? I've only seen a handful of them and one was the A&S 10 mil Cub mentioned - after Dan sold it; it was not on a good chassis and never laid down a decent time. I can maybe get some pics of that setup from the previous owner if anyone wants them (its been sold again).

Piston Window Info Ya'll got me thinkin about the piston windows, so I tried to do some research. Not a lot of info to be found, but the link above gives a couple of opinions on them.

I'm just sayin my 16 Cheetah and 16 Twister don't have windows in them; and most builders say they're not needed (on those motors.) Maybe the longer stroke lets the charge in under the piston (instead of through windows.) I thought even on a lesser stroke the piston went high enough to let it in under, but havent had one of those apart in a while. If it doesn't then of course the windows are to let the air/fuel into the crankcase.

I don't remember. Between S100 and $200. Send him a PM or call. You get enough to make probably 5 or 6+ stock length chains.

Hell yeah that was lean. Air leak or stopped up carb. Most likely air leak, though. As far as cutting the pistons; I really don't see the point. The top of the piston opens and closes the ports; I don't really know what the windows are there for anyway. I've theorized that they are there to get more lubrication on the wrist pin, but I don't know for sure. I know that lots of big motors don't run any windows - but maybe the longer stroke gives more time for the incoming fuel/oil to lub the pin??? Just a guess, though.

I meant the Wiseco of the same size as Vito's should work (re read and realized your going from Vito's to Wiseco.)

Huh??? You should be able call Vitos and get the tolerances. If the bore is already matched to the pistons you have, it is likely that Vito's of the same size should work. But it never hurts to have the piston and cylinder mic'd to be safe. The new Vito's pistons are forged and of good quality (imo); even though they're from Taiwan.

The dremel and sledge hammer I own today was due to that very project (replacing swingarm bearings). I had to thin the race with a dremel until I could break it (like already mentioned)