J-Madd

I actually run BR10EIX in one of my motors per builder recommendation. Off topic a tad here, but I also compared a few back to back passes with brand new plugs not gapped - straight out of the box, then gapped to 0.018". No change in e.t. or how the bike felt.

Don't get your hopes up on making that a 4 mil. You'll more than likely have to start over with a set of cylinders cast for a +4 mil stroke. And in the 68 mm bore, you run 573 series (Blaster) pistons, not 795.

I was one of the lucky ones that had a stock tranny 421 Cub on gas that shifted fine (as fine as s Banshee can shift, anyway), even with a lockup. Having the eccentric adjuster on the shift shaft set correctly is key. As far as the billet basket; you can't go wrong with the Magnum/SRP billet basket. I've ran them in several engines without issue. It is much cheaper than the Hinson.

If your just talking about making the holes bigger for aftermarket a-arms to fit; I just used a drill on mine.

10mm Cub Stock ratio primaries 16/45, 1-5 transmission, leave in second Tire height: 24" 300' dirt Max RPM 9600 (per Dyno this was the peak hp RPM) 2 - 46.86 3 - 56.6 4 - 67.92 5 - 81.25 Same as above, run with 22.2" tires sometimes: 2- 45.29 3- 54.71 4- 65.65 5- 78.53 THis as also about right. The motor will overrev a little with these tires and it will sometimes hit 80 mph with this gearing. I may post some 421 Cubs and a couple of bigger motor examples if I get a chance.

THe 4 mil should like a bigger main than the 18 mil. If you could drill them out to say 0.122, that may work. BUT like you've said, the dual pjs would be much safer (not ruin your carbs for one of the motors) and you can always turn one off. YOu could also try the Dave Moore power jets. They flow a lot more than the clippards. I liked them when I used them, but most (if not all) builders will tell you they are very touchy in trying to get dialed in.

It has to make hp sooner to make more tq. I agree on how you make the power being as important as peak hp. I have a couple that only make 100 hp and 103 hp and they run better times than most others in the classes we run.

I'd like to see back to back runs at the track with different pipes. That HP difference should be about half a tenth in 300 ft. I've tested RDZs vs BB CPIs vs SB CPIs on a particular motor and never found more than about 3-4% hp difference amongst them. With a simple pipe change your getting 10% hp increase. That seems too good to be true. Can't wait to see some more comparisons at the track!

I have been told on several occasions by one of my builders that the CPIs favor higher port timing than Shearers. I have also confirmed this on the dyno with one particular engine that had 200* exhaust duration. Sorry to get off subject. Just wanted to clarify that CPIs don't necessarily like low port timing (not that your implying that); but will be a better choice than lots of other pipes, as mentioned.

Every 421 Cub I have has been ran with either 73 or 76 rollout 14 staggereds. Picked up half a tenth over regular straight paddles. If you go with regular paddles, get them on at least 9 inch wide wheels. JMO. FYI 24" tires on 10x10 won't measure 78 roll out. THose of you that have those please measure and PM me if they do = 78." None of my 3 sets do

I'm running Chariot intakes but I have the reed stuffers intalled on my V-Force 3 reeds. THe original stuffers have been thrown away, because I always ran UPP intakes (until they all started leaking). What are the thoughts on running those with the stuffers.?

I've been researching this as well. On my newest 421 Cub build I ordered some Chariot intakes, not knowing they would have the built in crossover. I've got them installed, and now I'm trying to find out if the crossover helps/hurts anything. I only race 300 ft and this is the only motor that I have with a crossover in the intake.

You could add flywheel pickup gap.

Good choice. If had to do just one and strictly drag racing, override would be it. Next, you can convert your carbs to alky for cheap; and it's cheaper than race gas. Just a thought.

Word to the wise: make sure the seller actually measures the roll out to confirm they are 78". I've bought 2 sets of "78 roll out" 14 staggered extremes only for them to measure 75" - 76" at normal pressure (2 - 4 psi or so). I have to blow one set up to 8 psi, and the other up to 10+ to get them to 78". What's bad is I already had a set of 76" 14 staggereds. So now have 3 sets of essentially the same size tire. I wasn't duped by the sellers, they had bought them as 78" and never measured them.

Green - Where do the VF2s make more power (what rpm)? I have VF3s in several motors and some VF2s in one motor I just dynoed last week. It made more power in a certain rpm range than another motor with VF3s but the porting was drastically different as well.

A usual............wtf ????????????????????????????????????? What's the good shit, and whats the big gas hog shit??

WCR has been making/cutting trannies for years and is well known. I've never heard of micro polished transmissions though.

That's the first time I've heard that. Thought the T6 was a mid/top pipe....

If you want more bottom end power that the serval gives, you definitely don't want to go to the Cub. That's the opposite. You don't want to go to a 4 mil, unless you want to buy new cylinders also. What is your timing set on? What's the compression? Running race gas or pump gas? You should be able to get some more bottom end out of that setup. Smaller carbs and different pipes (as mentioned) should help a lot also.

Hey Jim, Where can I get one of those stealthy, lightweight clutch/lockup assemblies like you have on that bike.

3-D print Banshee plastic.

My thoughts exactly.

HP costs money. If they truly outperform the other pipes, they will have absolutely no problem selling.

Any E,T.A. on the out of frame version?