J-Madd

I'm Gettin off topic here, this could be moved if someone wants to move it.I bought a 10 mil Cub complete a couple months ago (Supposedly built by RDZ and make 124 hp, but I didn't for a second believe that it would make that hp....and it didn't) I tried BB CPI and RDZs on the dyno. Didn't bring any Shearers to try. (I have tons of sets hanging on the wall as well.) The RDZs had a surpisingly broad curve at the top, but the CPIS made 3 more peak hp, and more hp from the bottom up. This Cub had 200 or more degrees of exhaust duration, so this won't apply to every 10 mil Cub. Tried some SB silenced CPIs (all of the packing was missing) and it held so much heat, it only made 1 or 2 pulls and was down about 9 hp; BUT I didn't do much tuning because I already had it dialed in with the BBs and didn't want to change it (i.e. lazy.) I tried back to back runs with BB and SB Shearers on my other 10 Mil Cub which had much lower exhaust duration. Maybe as low as 194*, I don't remember. There was no difference in e.t. 3.89 on both passes. I'll be dynoing what I believe to be a very good running 392 Cub (should run low 3.8s or 3.7s with a Jockey) very soon and try to compare RDZ, Shearer SB, Shearer BB, CPI BB, and CPI SB if I have time. Trying to get this one competitive for 0-400 cc in Gilbert this year.

The concensus is that there is no need for spacers unless needed for the carb to clear the clutch actuator. There is some argument that they can move peak hp to different rpm range depending on whether you put them in front of the cage, or behind it. I don't buy it, but haven't tested on a dyno.

I'm in line for the custom OOFs. I don't have my hopes up getting them anytime soon, so I'm gonna run RDZs or Shearers this year on my 10 Mil Cub.

I'll add that if you have the O'Reillys stock number it makes it much easier for them to find/order the plugs. BR10EIX= 6801 BR9EGV = 5827 BR9ES = 5722 I keep those in my phone so I don't spend 15 minutes standing around while they try to look them up.

I always liked 15/42 for dune drag racing. Maybe some more paddle, too.

I know almost nothing about EFI, but have a few questions. Will an O2 sensor work on a 2-stroke? What are you gonna use the sensor for; I thought with a MAP the amount of fuel injected was dependant upon than, not on an O2 reading?? Is it a narrowband O2 sensor? Sorry for my ignorance, I know you have answers to all these questions.

Any chance you run a stutter box/rev limiter? Doubtful that you do, but those will kill reeds.

Definitely leave in 2nd, and yeah 15/44 would be a good starting point depending on tire.

Bel Ray, Maxima, Klotz Flexdrive .. all good $$$$ oils. If you go with ATF, you have to change it a lot more often than regular oil. Basically, any oil (Penzoil, Castrol, Valvoline - 30wt, 10w-30, etc.) will work as long as it doesn't have detergents in it. (I don't even know what oils DO have detergents in them)

You ran that motor with a 0.022" squish????? What cc domes? Wonder what the MSV is?

Well, with 8th mile you might need a pump. THose Mikuni billet bowls are relatively small. I have an identical set on my 16 Mil Cheetah(610cc). I tried to run a pump last year and never got it to work out with any pumper carbs except some PWKs. I'm going with the Mikunis gravity fed this year. What size motor is that? 14 Mil Cheetah is a 593 cc, 16 is 610 cc.......

For gas for sure. Unless it's 5000 ft asl.

How far are racing? Gravity feed will be fine for a 14 mil Cheetah.

Do the relief holes go all the way through the piston? Can you put some relief holes on the intake side as well? When I tore down one of mine this winter, the intake bridge area on the piston was scarred deep. You could feel it with your finger where the area had eroded. Still had 210 psi upon tear down, though.

Maybe the iridium plugs can tolerate the wider gap. I never tried that with the standard B9ES.

Ummmm. There are some good pics already posted!! Interested too. Pm Sent.

AHhh. Ok then.

You bought some of these yesterday??????????? I'm confused. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=139348 And you paid more than your asking for these. I'm confused.

OEM. Timing at +8* or so. For the record, I do still gap them to 0.018". I just tried that to see. Better safe than sorry when it comes race time. Hate it lose because I didn't gap the plugs.

If you didn't just join yesterday I'd by those. No offense.

I don't prefer a leak that bad, but I do have one together right now that won't hold but about 2, maybe 3 psi after 6 mins. It's a 16 mil Twister in stock cases. Lots of case work and I've sealed up all the leaks I can find. Intakes (POS UPPs) are usually the culprit - which I've got some Chariot billet ones for next season. Other places they leak are around the key way of the primary gear on aftermarket cranks or on straight cut gears. Difficult to stop those, even with yamabond.

Mine were ok, but I usually had Marvin SHaws or struts on it, so it really didn't get abused in the suspension area (straight line racing.)

My point was that the 421 Cub didn't hinder shifting anymore than when it was stock. Of course Banshees shift like crap bone stock. So.....it shifted great (for a Banshee). I wish they shifted like a YFZ....those are awesome.

Good point. If is around a crank seal, it could possibly get worse. If its around the intakes and you can't get it to stop, it's not likely that it will get worse. That being said: If it leaks down to 2 lbs in 6 mins I still run it; even if it's the crank seal. You can tell by the sound of the engine if it's gotten worse.