J-Madd

I depends on the condition of the other clutch components. If the outer hub is grooved at all, I'd go ahead and replace it. If not, run it. I wouldn't worry about the pressure plate much.

I have those same carbs on my 10 mil Cub also. I drilled the (dual feed) pjs out to 0.096" and it has no problem supplying fuel on the big end. I run the needles lean (its real zingy on the bottom) and it won't bog. The only times it did, I had electrical issues.

http://www.prosanddrags.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1759#Post1759

The red/black and black wires go together (and to ground if you run one.) Make sure the black/white wire is disconnected completely. Now you won't have a way to kill it though.

http://forums.atvdragracers.com/topic/485-alkyrace-gas-tuning-tips/

Every casting is different. I have some that I can use non-flange 12 mm nuts on, some that I can use oem nuts on, and 1 that I HAVE to use the 10mm arp nuts on AND a ground down wrench.

http://www.prosanddrags.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1557#Post1557

Good people, and very thorough in their work. They've made some remote start nuts for me and kicker gears with the washer welded on (so it won' t kick back and break the cover). I also have an override transmission they cut and it's the smoothest shifting tranny I have. I race with them often as well.

- Timing has nothing to do with the spark. It will still spark if the timing is all jacked up, just won't start. - The first thing you do with TORS is unplug it and throw it away, then the throttle cable play has no effect on the ignition. There is a lot more than what you listed to troubleshoot absent spark.

I always run EGN needles. HOpe that helps.

Glad you got it started. I spray carb cleaner in the filters if needed when cold.

It's possible on even built motors to keep it from creeping. I can wind all of mine up pretty good and i they won't roll, unless I hold it down for way too long (3 - 4 seconds+), and then it barely creeps. That's due to the clutch fibers getting hot. With the clutch cover off and cable loose turn the adjuster/pankcake bearing so that the actuator lines up near the arrow on the case. Also make sure that you can feel some play in the pancake bearing. YOu don't want it where you can't turn it, or move it at all. Tighten the clutch cable until there's about a nickels thickness of play at the clutch lever on the handle bars. Pull in the clutch lever and see if you can turn the pressure plate by hand. It will take a bit of force to get it broke loose, but should be easy after that. If you can't get it to do that, either tighten the cable or the pancake bearing until you can do that. That way you know before you ever put the clutch cover on it will not creep. I remember the days of adjusting, reassembly, and starting it up to test it, only to have to keep adjusting it. In that case it wasn't an adjustment issue, I had some springs that would coil bind. Had I tried to turn the pressure plate, I would have known that something was wrong. Didn't watch the video, btw, If some of this is redundant, I apologize.

What are the specs on your carbs? Are they sync'd? Should be no problem in a heated garage. I assume its at least 60 degrees in there??

X2. It shouldn't be foamy. Water may be getting in there.

Try the 16, and if it bogs. go to the 15. 16/43 with 82 r/o tires is a lot of gear, but on a loose track, sometimes you need more I think. I always start gearing based on mph @ what I think my peak hp rpm should be in 5th gear, then look at mph and 60 ft and how it reacts to slight gear changes (1 tooth at a time on the back). Every track can be different, even the same track gets different as the day goes by. If I'm ever at a track without a 60 ft and or/mph I'm lost tuning my tires/gearing/clutch, etc. Total e.t. doesn't tell me how I got there. Getting that right is more important than getting the motor tuned perfectly, imo.

Why did you get rid of the PWKs? I can't help you on the Lectrons, or any carb for that matter, on gas.

194* - 198* exhaust works well with Shearers. I know because I have (Cub) motors that are in this range. NOt to say that they don't work well at less than that, just that I don't have experience running those #s with them. Someone else will for sure, or you can always call Matt Shearer. I also have a Cub motor at 200* and it likes CPIs. Just my experience.

That's a lot of tire, but then again, that's a long swingarm. Maybe 15/43 or 44 to start with. I'd gear that motor to run 83-86 mph, then fine tune it from there until you get the quickest e.t. My gearing suggestion is based on 9500 peak rpm.

I'd try to match the reed cage to the intake, but it looks difficult to accomplish. For that reason, I run the VF3s with the cascade stuffers. Match the intakes nicely.

You might be able to run a thicker base gasket and get the durations up a bit. You may have to shave the head to keep the compression and squish right. Just a thought. Porting would be best, though.

I have a 10 mil with a freshly rebuilt billet crank, and one with a forged crank of some sort (I bought motor used), and I limit the amount of passes on the forged crank. If you have the money, go with the billet. jmo.

Carbs meter air and fuel. All those mentioned can accomplish this, and when tuned correctly they are all about the same. I have run Keihns, Mikunis, and Lectrons. I used to hate Lectrons, but now I think they are my favorite due to the ease of tuning with them at the track.

I've seen that (and another) 4 cylinder run dirt, but never asphalt. What mph?

2 pages for someone to finally suggest this? Your checking for major issues before ruling out the simplest things, like carb sync, choke tube, unplug tors, clean carbs. Also, not sure if WD40 will find an air leak, its not that volatile.. Carb/brake cleaner is what is used. I could be wrong.

I noticed that on your time slip, and thought that was odd. That's a good 1/8th mile time, yet its geared to run 120 mph. What gear are you in at the 8th mile mark?? I was asking the OP what timing, but if you want to give yours that would be great. I don't run asphalt, but would think that it would need to be a few degrees lower than what we run on dirt in 300 ft.