bri98
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Everything posted by bri98
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TDR does it I think they are in Florida. Louie Swan (Mr Twister) did mine he is in Oregon. No complaints. Numbers are in the back of dirt wheels
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I have the same carbs. I have MP Racing 370LR with a Play/Race port, 16cc domes 180 compression,T-5's TDR reeds, +5 timing at 600 Feet abov sea level I run 65 pilots, clip in the middle and 240 mains in the summer (65-90 degres)250 in the winter( no colder than 30 degrees) Been running this way for a couple years now with no problems.
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I run T-5 pipes, MP Racing Play/Race Port ,16cc domes in my cool head, 5 degree advance. When I ran stock carbs ,I Ran 30 Pilots Toomy Needles clip in the middle and in 70 degree weather 330 Mains. If I were you I would start higher on the mains and work my way back down. hope this helps. BUT Who ever did the port work REALLY should be the one to tell you how to jet.BTW 600 Feet above sea level.
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I have been riging for 18 years( I'm 32) Broke ribs loosened two front teeth with my helmet on, thank God they did not get knocked out. dislocated shoulder, broken colar bone, countless pulls strains and bruises. Everytime I ever got really hurt the Quad didn't get a scratch on it. And every time I have done major damage to a quad I have come away just fine.
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Not spray! Silicone in a caulking tube.
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If your current chain is in good sape just remove a few links. Set your adjuster in the middle andrun the chain around the sprockets to see wher you need to cut. I removed three links for my -1. As far as cuttung the chain a local shop could do it. Or if you like to do things yourself, like me. Decide your length then grind the pin flat with the outer plate of the link, once it has been ground down you will be able to see faintly where the pin is located. I place the chain across the jaws of a vise and with the proper size punch and a hammer drive the pin through. Then re assemble with master link. Do Not try to skip the grinding step or you will never get the pin out.If you ae unsure take it to a pro.
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Looking For A Good Set Of Tires "maybe Razar 2"
bri98 replied to blackred03's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I have had HOLESHOT XC and the new XCR and the Razers. The Holeshot XCR tires that I have now are great just about everywhere. The Raxors have good striaght line hook up but I don't think they corner nearly as good and I got Alot more flats with the Razors. Also when you do get a flat the Holeshots have a stiffer side wall so you do not have to ride back to the truck on the rim like I had to with the Razors. my .02 -
LSR!!!! Great warranty! Great axle!
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I have a quicksand -1 last year I paid 475 powdercoated WITH an anodized blue round housing carrier.no more bullshit chain adjuster. That is 200-300 cheaper than the big names and it fits, looks and performs great.
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Are you runing stock needles? I know when I installed mine years ago they came with thier own needles and they were noticably different, thinner=richer?
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That is how my Denton mounts also.I do not have pics but the bracket that goes on that crossbar behind the bumper should be positioned so the stabalizer comes over the top of the bracket NOT under, and the mount for the stering stem I have positioned on the right side of bike(when seated) If I remember corectly I only snuged the stem mount so I could turn the stem completely left to right to find a position where it would not bind, then tighten. I hope this helps.
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Why the big debate? Well I am no expert but I beleive that anyone that has been into Banshees for any length on time. Has Probably (like me) invested ALOT of time and money into their machines. Once we find something that works its hard to change and the longer a particular part holds up the more we think its the best and nothing else could possibly be better. The best you can do is get as much info as you can and in the end MAKE YOUR OWN DECESION. You could have good or bad luck with any piston on the market dependig on how you treat it.
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In the first post you said the bore LOOKS good. I hope you checked or had someone check that you are within proper tolerences ( piston to wall) This is great info on honing, Just dont over look the fact you my need a bore job. If piston to wall exceedes .006 I would think twice.
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Anyone From Illinois Have A Place To Ride
bri98 replied to Dawgler23's topic in Riding and Events Forum
I am always up for HASPIN ORTHE BADLANDS My shee will be back together in a few weeks. late summer or fall is best in the woods but I ride all year. -
Weisco Pro Lites. They are strong. Break them in properly they will last.
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Anyone From Illinois Have A Place To Ride
bri98 replied to Dawgler23's topic in Riding and Events Forum
I am in Lowell IN about 40 south of chicago just over the border I go to Hopkins park every once in a while ,its cool ,all sandy trails so riding year round is decent. there are also trails in Crete. These arent actually LEGAL but I have been riding in these areas since I was 15 years old I am now 32 and I have never been bothered. I cant really tell you where to go I would almost have to show you my buddies and I are always happy to show new people around. PM me or e-mail me and we will talk. Also a few times a year we head down to Haspin Acres Its about 1.5 hours southwest of Indianapolis. If you guys like the badlands you will love this place. Bigger hills, 4 times the wooded trails, 2 motorcross tracks, and no trucks tearing te sht out of the trails.They also have food, showers, camping. you can even ride at night. -
Anywhere from .010 to.030 is normal. I beleive after that you will also have to re-chamber besause squish wil be affected. Talk to the shop doing the work, that is always a good bet. They will help you decide based on current mods, elevation, use, and wheather or not higher octane will be required.
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I run a quicksand -1 and I realy like it. I ride alot of wooded trails and some MX. What it did was make it hook up ALOT better. when climbing hills before I would have alot of wheelspin now It just hooks, it requires a little more input sometimes to keep the front end from coming up but it is well worth it. the other benifit is you can go to a round housing type carrier, that beats the shit out ofthe stock setup. Some guys here run a -2 you might also consider that depeding on what kind of riding you do.
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Sputtering & Missing At Mid-throttle
bri98 replied to BaddBanshee's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
This may help I had a similar problem mine was a dog on the bottom and middle, had to slip the shit out of the clutch to get going once it was on the pipe it ran fine. after pulling my hair out I changed reeds problem solved. The thing is my old reeds did not LOOK bad no cracks,seemed to be closing but my buddy had a set laying around and we couldn't find anything else wrong so we tried it. it did the trick -
Sputtering & Missing At Mid-throttle
bri98 replied to BaddBanshee's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I am curious, if it ran great in any and all conditions before and nothing was changed, how did it all of a sudden become a jetting isue. This may help I had a similar problem mine was a dog on the bottom and middle, had to slip the shit out of the clutch to get going once it was on the pipe it ran fine. after pulling my hair out I changed reeds problem solved. The thing is my old reeds did not look bad no cracks, my buddy had a set laying around and we couldn't find anything else wrong so we tried it. it did the trick -
Somebody, anybody, nobody?
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Anyone With A Vito's 404 Or Anyone Really
bri98 replied to smokin350's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Yeah what Meat said, ALSO if the coolant prob is not an O-Ring (it probably is) this happened when I had my big bore sleeves installed, on one cylinder the sleeve dropped down .003-.004 lower than the deck ( top of cylinder) you could not see it but you could FEEL it with your fingernail, this caused the o-ring not to completely compress so compression was pushing coolant out the overflow. Luckily my builder hooked me up and fixed it with no B.S. -
you have to remove the coolant lines, remove the one that goes to the water pump first that will drain most of the coolant. I also remove the carbs and intakes when I remove cylinders. If you remove the intakes plug the openings with rags just so nothing can fall into the bottom end. Also after you pull the jugs cover the open crankcase to keep out dirt an so no small parts can acidently fall in.
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Has anyone out ther heard that stock yzf450 a-arms can be modified to fit a banshee thereby giving the equivalent of +2 a-arms. Is this at all true. Does anyone know someone wo has done this?
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Race Fuel will be a MUST if you go with th 17cc domes, and welding the crank is never a bad idea especially with high compression. I run 16cc domes at 600 above sea level. For fuel I run Sunoco 110 octane I could probably get away with 104.

