Ducman

He's got a K&N and +4 ignition advance so he's probably pretty close at 340 if you were good at 310 with the uni foam filter. If it runs pretty good at WOT and then bogs some at WOT then it may be jeted ok. Where you have to be careful with the choke test is that it may not run good and cause a bog off idle or at half throttle with the choke on but when you are at WOT in the top of 5th it may be just right, so don't missinterpret the bog as meaning you were rich on the mains and you weren't unless it bogs when trying to rev it out in a high gear at WOT.

If you can do you jetting where you are going to ride, ie you dont get the bike too dirty or it isn't too windy or rainy, get some other jets 310, 320, 330 and give yourself an extra hour or 2 and bring all the tools you need and a large tub to work over so you don't drop any small parts in the dirt. Or if the 340's are rich but not so bad that you are fouling plugs or cant even get into the band at WOT or are overheating, ride it and put smaller jets in when you get home. If its just slightly rich then go one size smaller, if it's real bad, bogs and wont go into the band then go 2 to 3 sizes smaller.

Yeah, bust out the credit card and get some pipes. Messing with perfoamance mods on the stock pipes is more trouble than its worth.

Yup - U R lean I have the Gnarlies and a foam filter with the air box lid off, 400' elev. , temp 50 degrees, #30 pilots and I am perfect at 290 mains. I'd say you'd be jetted correctly at 320 or even 330 mains with the K&N and lid off. The jets that come with the pipes are for the stock filter and the airbox lid on at around 80 degrees. My Gnarlies came with a kit that said they were for Fatties with a #260 main.

380 sounds realy big, 340's sound closer to what should be the correct size mains probably still a little rich. You most likely haven't felt it bog from being jeted to rich on the mains yet because you haven't tried to rev it out in a high gear with the throttle pinned. Doing a plug chop only works when you install a new set of plugs, start it, then run it up through the gears one time at WOT, pull in the clutch and shut it down while still rolling, then remove the new plugs, put the old plugs back in, then go chop the plugs that were only ran for the short WOT test. You can bring a hack saw and some vice grips or something to hold the plug while you saw on it with you when you go riding out of town. Do this check first thing after you get it good and warmed up. What you are looking for is a 2mm (approx 1/8 inch) carmel brown band at the very base of the electrode. The majority of the electrode will still look white because it was only ran such a short time. If you dont get any brown band or much less than 2mm at the base then you are too lean, if you get much more than 2mm or the whole electrode is dark brown then you are too rich. I would probably put the 340's in and try them. If they turn out to be lean, which I doubt, then put the air box lid on to cut down some air flow and try again. If its rich with the 340's then your motor will still be safe, it just wont run as good as it should. I wouldn't run it at WOT at all if you find that it is lean.

A hole in the piston is from detonation. With 21cc domes and a stock bore W/no porting, W/no timing advance or up to about +3 advance or so you should be able to run 91 octane pump gas without detonation issues. If you ran it with lower than 91 octane fuel or the fuel sat in the tank for too long and went bad this may have caused your detonation problem. You may have ran it too lean on the mains which could also lead to detonation, or a combination of lean and low octane/bad fuel. Make sure the case is clean of any piston fragments/debris before throwing another set in.

Mabe instead of eating biscuits, listen to a little Limp Bisket while riding, not the "break stuff" song though!

1-No 2-NA 3-Yes 4-Yes 5-2004 Lots of long deep water x-ings with the air box lid on, water level pretty much all the way up to the air intake, although not a lot has ever got into the air box, somtimes tires were spinning throwing water all over. However the bike is pretty new so the banshee swimming was done at less than 6 Mo.

I agree with banchetta, tune the bottom end to run the best, quickest throttle responce, smoothest idle, goes into the band the snappiest, then do a plug chop for the WOT test on the mains, and perform a plug chop, dont just observe the plug color. I think B8ES are a little cheaper than BR8ES and work fine for 99% of riding conditions, although I can't speak from experience, stay away from high voltage lines with the B8ES.

I belive the T-6 is much more of a high rev pipe and the pro-circut is more of an all around pipe so pick which style would you prefer and thats your answer.

Yeah, have someone buy them and ship them to you. Even with fast shipping the SST's shouldn't be more than about $650 U.S. Get the foam filter w/ adapter plate for dusty and muddy conditions, most brands seem ok to me, twin air, uni, proflow; go for the best price.

Future porting would be the best deciding factor. There both good pipes. I think the cpi's are suposed to rev out a couple hundred rpms higher than the TR6 and be just slightly more top end biased. Don't choose any pipe just for the sound.

Throw in a set of NEW set of plugs for the WOT test replace them with the old plugs and perform a plug chop on the new plugs that were ran for the WOT test only. Reading a spark plug that has been used too long can still look brown when its actualy running lean and a new spark plug can remain very light untill its gets enough time on it to color the electrode unless your very rich. The plug chop isn't as convienient as just looking at the plugs, but will tell you if you are lean or rich with one WOT run with no guesswork involved in judging different shades of brown and is a much more relaible method. Read the instructions in the Jetting FAQ. Once you perform a plug chop you will see how accurate you can judge your jetting and feel confident that it is right. Banshee Jetting FAQ

Try checking the Toomey website for jetting recommendations. My best guess where your correct jetting would be for 60 degrees, sea level, replace air box with 2 into 1 foam filter is: #30 pilots - A/S 1.5 turns out, stock needle setting or possibly 1 clip richer, 310 mains. Your Toomey jet kit probably came with somthing like 280 or 290 mains which would be for the stock air filter with the lid on, snorkle removed. This is just an approximation, starting one or 2 sizes larger on the mains and working your way down untill it doesn't bog is the safest way to adjust jetting so you don't start lean, or if you start at 310 and it doesn't bog from being too rich do a plug chop and it will tell you if your jetting is good. Read this to lean how to approximate jeting and how to do a plug chop: Banshee Jetting FAQ

You need to go up on the main jet size and possibly the pilot but it sounds more like a clogged filter or something since stock jetting should make it run realy lean with the K&N. Lean conditions shouldn't foul a plug. Did you buy the filter new? Someone may have used the wrong filter oil for it. Foam filter oil will clog it up. I would clean it and apply K&N oil on the filter (the spray stuff) so you will know the filter is flowing air correctly. You can get a K&N filter cleaner and oil kit for $10 at any auto parts store.

I think you may be correct on the waterpump if the radiator feels realy cool at the bottom. It will naturally be cooler at the bottom but shouldn't be cool to the touch when the top is really hot. Sounds like a really low flow comming out of the pump. Just a guess, it could be from cavatation if you have a bad air leak in front of the pump or a realy screwed up old plastic impeller with some busted fins?

Banchetta, actually the 2.5 turns out was for a warmer setting and air box lid on. I just fired her up the other day after rejetting the mains for removing the air box lid and also needing to add a size for colder temps and it ran so good enough with the same pilot settings that I didn't mess with the air screws. After it was wamed up it idled at about the same rpm but just barely noticeabley quieter. Under the circumstances I expected to need to turn the air screws in due to a colder weather and air box lid off and actually it would probably still benifit from a half to 1 turn in but I just neglected to do it because it ran fine so why mess with it. I can't immagine the throttle response being any better, it's damb good now. It starts first kick every time even when hot or cold. I also think that a bigger pilot jet is better for low end performance, although this may just be my opinion. Fuel is much much less compressable when compaired to air, therfore it is much easier to restrict the fuel than air. When your between1/8 to 1/4 throttle with the engine under load or slightly more throttle but at low rpms trying to somewhat lug the motor rather than down shifting I think that the dymanic affects of the air will allow more fuel to flow in with a bigger pilot even though you can theoretically just about even out a larger pilot with a size smaller using the air screws at an idle. FMF recommends the #30 pilot for all of their pipes and i agree with them.

P.S. I'd just call to make the order. The lady I taked to on the phone was excellent and was able to put together my order just fine. All you need to know is what brand and make of tire/rim you want and what size, and let them know you want the polished finish on the rims and I went with the chrome valve stems for $3 per set more.

I couldn't find crap on the Rockey Mountain web site either for any of their ITP rims, even though most of the stuff on there site has pretty good organization. I knew about the ITP C-ceries rims because they have them listed in their adds in various ATV magazines. If you look up their wheel/tire package deals on the website or in the magazine whatever they list for the tire/rim package deal price on .125 douglass rims, add $20 for ITP T-9's or .190 Douglass. From what I have seen they don't list the C-ceries on the website. Also, If you do the math taking the price they want for the ITP T9 rims by themselves VS the price with the rims as part of the package deal, then do the same thing with the C-ceries rims and rim/tire package, they give a bigger discount with the T-9's. It makes the T-9 deal hard to beat, but I had my sights set on the C-ceries. seeserseesseres... tong all twisted now.

Going once, Going twice.... Sold! The next mod on my list, one Boonman lightened flywheel going to the 04' ltd banshee sitting in my garage!

If the AV gas is around 98 octane or higher and you are jetted correctly then you should be OK. The key thing is that you are jetted correctly because lean conditions which cause high exhaust gas temps heat up your piston and head which can lead to detonation even if you have a fuel with a suficient octane in some cases.

I think with the procircuts and the prodesign foam filter with the air box lid off and cold conditions areound 40 degrees, you'll end up using 300 mains, 30 pilot, raise the needle one position richer or so for the reeds (drop clip 1 position). With the 2 clamp on K&N's you should end up with 350 mains. Its a good Idea to start with a main 1 or 2 sizes larger than you think you might end up if your unsure where you should be. Or if you think you know pretty much where you should be and want to go straight for the kill then KNOW how to do a plug chop and perform one to insure that you aren't too lean. I think that I would switch back and forth from the foam filter to the K&N clamp-ons when going from trails to sand unless the trails don't have a lot of water crossings, or are prone to very dusty or muddy conditions. If those conditions aren't a problem on the trails then run the K&N's with the outer wears all the time and clean them often.

Exactly like boonamn said. You may have been jetted too lean but the detonation is what killed your piston. After breaking in the motor you should perform a plug chop test to check the jetting because the pipes manufactures jettting recommendations are usually only good for their pipes on a completely stock motor with only the air box snorkel removed. I have head of people running 20cc domes even with a small ignition advance (+2 or +3 deg) without a detonation problem on pump gas but that could have been with 93 oct. With 20cc domes it is so close to needing a higher octane than you can get with pump gas that if you are jetted too lean it will create higher cylendar temps and bring detonation into the picture. If you aren't pretty familiar with how to check your jetting (plug chop proceedure) and jet a little rich to be on the safe side then you should run 1/2 race fuel and 1/2 91 octance pump fuel mix. I personally would either run the higher octance fuel or go to 21cc domes.

I rejetted my banshee this weekend for taking the air box lid off and a colder weather. Mods are: Air box: adapter plate W/Twin air foam filter W/ foam outerware FMF Gnarlies Jetting: Elevation 300'-600' Temp 40 to 60 degrees F. #30 pilots, air screws 2.5 out Needles stock position (3rd clip down) #290 mains I thought #290's might be a tad on the rich side but they were perfect . Did a plug chop, 2mm brown band at the base of the electrode, goes in the band quick no hesitations, pulled hard all the way to the top of 6th in sandy conditions. I talked with a local yamaha shop when getting a couple of sparkplugs to sacrafice for the plug chop and they said that the Gnarlies, Fatties, and SST's all jet pretty close to the same. With a K&N I'd say you should be pretty close to my settings on the pilot, possible raise the needle one clip, and +4 on the mains which would put you at 330 on the mains. If your colder than 40 deg. then possibly one more size on the main and if your at 1500' ele. or more then minus one size on the main. Whatever you do decide to jet it at, do a plug chop, that is the only reliable method to tell if your jetting is adequate.

I just ordered a set of 4 as part of a wheel/tire package deal from Rockey Mountain ATV. If you buy the rims from them w/o tires they are somewhere around $70 like you mentioned. If you get a set of tires too, then they are like $57 a piece. I got a set of ITP Sand Star paddles which are about $200 for the tires. With the rims included the whole set is like $425, so if you do the math the rims are about $57 each. I decided to get the fully polished rims which added an additional $9 per wheel. I haven't got them yet so I can't tell you much about the weight or appearance. They were out of stock on the tires and I should have them in about 2 weeks. If you want to wait that long, I plan on doing a product review. Personnaly though, I ding the hell out of my rims when trail riding so I am planning to just keep using the stockers for the trails. I wen't all out on the bling bling for the sand because I dont plan on getting any wheel dings or damage in the soft oregon sand.