Ducman

The return of the ninja! Creeps in under the blanket of darness in his new 01 screeming blue banshee disguise! Haaaaayaaah I chop you in neck. The ninja master attacks again! On a more serious note, I checked the prices of banshees on ATV trader.com for my area, northern Ca, just for shits and giggles. Anything decent only a couple of years old or with a lot of nice mods was $5k. Wish I would have got on the HQ before I bought mine. Could have made a trip to Vegas, picked up a cheep shee, and gambeled like a rock star on the money I saved.

You can spank that Kentuky Fried :flame: Kawasaki. I read 2 excellent articles on this same question. One was an experiment that 3 guys tried. 1 piped banshee, 1 piped raptor and one stock KFX 700 with some small carb mod or something. They were racing a short drag race on a gravel road. I believe it was about 300'. The KFX beat the banshee and the banshee beat the raptor but lost ot the KFX in all of the races. In a large quad magazine an article compaired all of the accelerations of all the STOCK machines avaiable in 04'. It was a comparison they performed with all the quads on a dirt strip in the same conditions on the same day. It also showed that the KFX was fastest out of the hole. However, it had the least acceleration when it came to the mid, and top end, and the slowest top speed of all. All of the popular hot rod quads out were beating it by 1/2 track. The darn thing weighs like 500 lbs! Of coarse it will hook up good off the line. But, its own weight and drivetrain soak up so much HP that it cant hang one its up to a significant speed. Race on pavement, tackey dirt, sand, or a gravel road 600' and that KFX is toast. And tell your coworker the pistons fire on every stoke on a 2 stroke so I guess the 350cc x2 would be about the same as a 700cc 4 stroke, but yours weighs 120 lbs less.

We all feel a little invincible riding our hot rods, but we need to all remember that we are mortal and to keep a little thought of safety in the back of our mind, and sometimes bad things are just unpreventable. Thoughts go out do the downed rider.

You cant just close the brake bleader valve and squeeze the brake lever to push it back out?

21cc domes with 92 A-OK

92 octane? Nope! you need 92 mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with 110 race fuel at a minimum. I'd recommend straight race fuel or at least a fuel 100 octane or higher. First disconnect the coolant line on the water pump cover (bottm left) and drain, then the one at the front of the head, then the one at the back. Remove stock head. Use grease to hold the orings in place and install o-rings. Clean any head gasket material off the top of the cylenders with a puddy knife or razor, try not to scratch the top of the cylenders deeply. Put a small dab of grease around the base of each stud. Put the bottom half of the head on with the domes already over the cylinders or if you grease them up and stick them into the bottom plate. They may stick to the bottom plate while you install it but may fall off, no biggie if they do. You may need to lightly tap on the bottom plate evenly on either side to get it to go down the studs to the top of the cylinder. Put another small dab of grease on the studs at the top of the bottom plate. Slide the small o-rings over the studs and push them all the way down. Next put the top plate on and put all the nuts on. Get a torque wrench if you haven't got one, or borrow one. Torque them down in the numbered sequence that is on the stock head to fist 10 ft-lb, then 15 ft-lb, and finally 20 ft-lb. Now your ready to rock!

What you did was lower you slides all the way down it choked out the air almost completely. Secondly you surely took your carbs out of sink. It takes a couple of seconds for your idle to react to the adjustment. What you need to do is turn the knobs on the TORS a couple of turns clockwise, evely turn bosh sides. When you get it at a satifactory idle. Next you have to take the air filter off and look into the carbs through the intake. You need to make sure they are even so one carb doesn't take more air in than the other. That isn't a real great description of how to sink the carbs but the general idea. Look in the jetting FAQ, it will tell you more precisely how to do it.

May need to/probably should go to 1 size larger mains for the timing, the reeds could affect your pilot and needle jetting circut. You'll have to start it up with the reeds and see how it runs then adjust the airscrews and/or needle to make it run better.

I found a good site for requirements on riding in Oregon and lots of other info. On the front of the web page it says that if you are out of state and have a off road sticker issued by that state then you don't need to buy one. Some states require ATV's to be registered others do not. CA does so I can use my CA OHV permit in OR It gives db requirements for exhaust, 99db in general, 97 for sand lake and 93 for Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. I dont know what the db's are for a typical banshee silencer, but from what I've seen any standard silencer on a banshee will do. Also It says that you are supposed to wear a helmet on a 4 wheeler or 2 wheeler, sandrailers dont, but I saw a lot of people who weren't wearing them on quads. So I'm guessing they don't inforce the rules too strictly. I wouldn't even think of not wearing a helmet, but it looks like fun... untill your head gets squished that is. Rding OHV's in Oregon

Lesson learned? Aim for the front!!!!

Sweet, the chicks finally made it to the party Sausage fest is over!

Shit! I guess I must have got hosed. I thought I was doing good at $6500 OTD, paid a couple hun extra for the 04 black LTD though. The MSRP was $6299. CA prices are totally jacked up compared to most any other place on earth though.

Darwin gets them every time. Yeah, watch those insurance MFers closely . They will always act in their own interset and not yours. Sometimes they will offer a settlement to the other party even though it is the other parties fault if they think it will keep it from going to court. My wife got hosed one time by the insurance when she was rear ended while slowing to make a left hand turn. If they try to hike your rates or anything I would get a lawyer =

I believe that it is fine to change your oil a couple of times durring the life of the top end if you wanted to, but not between every other tank. It takes a while to build up the proper amount of oil in the crank and cylinder which is one reason why you have to take it easy when breaking it in. It also takes a while for the new type of premix oil to cycle through the motor and replace the existing oil. You get the best protection when the motor has all of one type of oil. While the transition is going on the oils may resist blending in the crank bearings and cylinder and the different detergents in the oils may be fighting each other so you may not be getting as good of lubrication untill you achieve a homogenieous layer of oil from the new premix. I would think going from one synthetic to another, or one petroluim based oil to another wouldn't be as bad though. I think there are many good oils out there, its best just pick the prettyest smelling one and stick with it.

Sand Stars... I likem... I likem aaaalot. They did good on hill climbs, slides easy enough, good sidehill tracktion Sometimes when trying to roost the top of a dune face they would hook up a bit too good and pick the front end up. Price isn't too bad either. With ITP T-9s the sand stars were very noticably lighter than my stock rims with dirt tires.

I say save your money and get a cool head with 20cc domes. That will help the bottom end some, give you a little more torque, probably not as much as a 2 into 1 though. Either that or you could trade me your SST's (if their in good shape) for my Gnarlies + I'll toss on a some $ since the SST's cost a bit more. The Gnarlies have great bottom end, probably exactly what you are looking for. I am looking for a bit more top end myself. The Gnarlies are in perfect condition, W/ turbine core II silencers. I'll even mirror polish the silencers if you want, tres tres bling bling.

With fatties and not a really highly modded motor it may also be hard to pull 6th real strong unless your on fairly flat and hard ground. I know in the soft choppy sand my gnarlies would pull 5th just fine but going up hill, not even all that steep had a hard time pulling 6th, and it would bog a bit and I'd loose momentum so I'd have to shift back down to 5th, although, I do weigh 250. Just a thought. If your on flat solid ground then, try cleaning your air filter if you haven't done it in a while, it it still bogs then go to #310 mains.

#30 pilots should probably work, if you are tuneing your airscrews and it runs better the more you turn them out and you get beyond 2.5 turns out go down to a 27.5 pilot. Dont try to tune the pilots when the bike is still cold, get it a bit warmed up first. No, the running on jack stands wont work because there is no load on the motor and is super dangerous when the wheels get going that fast. With the K&N, big open air box w/ no lid and timing advance, reeds, I'd say you should be around #340 on the mains.

OMFG! Just take your bike to the dealer, hand them over about $180.00, show them your pipes, and say "here put deese on Banshee" cause you need help!

Is there really that much benifit or noticeable HP in going from 19cc ot 17cc to make it worth it? Not trying to discourage, just want to know from someone who's done it.

996 Thanks for the input guys. I'll have to look for the alpinestar ATV specific boot. Yeah, what the hell, I'd shell out a couple more bones for a good ATV boot. I'm still leaning towards some street boots. My sidi vertabra fit like a glove, are super lite, have feeling in the top of the foot for the shifter, and are flexible yet still provide a lot of protection, not as much as dirt boosts though, and would be perfect, but cost too much for the dirt. Maybe some cheep Cobe's. I agree that a stiff boot would provide more protection, but a missed shift that stalls me out on a steep ass hill may do me in before the broken ankel will.

Mc Donalds comercials on the radio, ahhhh my ears are bleading, please make it stop!

probably too lean, if it wont idle good then it definitly wont start good. Try turning your air screw to like 1/4 of a turn out from seated and see if it improved the idle or starting at all. If it does, go up a size on the pilots and adust the air screws untill you get a good healthy idle.

I bought a pair or riding boots a while back to use on the banshee. I got the ones with the most flexability in the ankle the stealership had and it still sucked, there didn't have any specifically for atv's as far as I could tell, or any street boots either. I couldn't shift to save my life and many times thought I was up-shifting but ended up being in the same gear. The rear break was not much better. It was like wearing 3 condoms or something. I ended up giving them to a friend with a dirt bike and Ive been wearing work boots. I am tempted to just get a pair of street bike boots like my Sidi's which would be perfect but I don't want to spend that much, more like $100, and I dont think sreet boots would hold up as well with all the dirt water and abuse. Tell me what riding boots work for you and if they are flexible and you can feel the shifter or if you couldn't and you had to just get used to them.

I did hear one time that the castor 927 has a lower flash point than many other oils so more of the oil actually burns when your on the pipe for a long time and really heating things up creating a slight increase in the amount of combustion that takes place. I couldn't tell any difference though. For the same reason, the castor isnt supposed to protect the rings as good under excessive overheating type of conditions. Probably all BS though. I didn't have any starting problems what so ever, same as with the Yama 2R. I haven't had a single drop of oil come out of my pipes either that I have noticed. I haven't delt with it in freesing temps either. Costs like 2x as much as the Yama 2R which sucks.