Ducman

Dfinitely do the plug chop after going WOT in 6th gear. You should already be plenty rich with a 320 main. I would mix the fuel/oil at 40:1.

These might work. There used to be more billet expansion chamber to stinger pipe seals available. You'll wan't to check the diameters before you buy one, some pipe stingers are different sizes. http://shop.bansheedepot.com/TDR-Billet-Exhaust-Pipe-Couplers-02-5733.htm https://www.modquad.com/product/exhaust-clamps/

I'm not sure it provides the best engine lubrication or protection, but I like to run Amsoil Sabre at 100:1 because its more economical and it doesn't smoke very much so you smell more race fuel and less burnt oil and people riding behind me were complaining about getting nauseous when I used to run 927 at 40:1.

I think 320 mains are to big with the air box lid on, should be more like 290's. If it has good throttle response and starts easy then the 30 pilots are probably fine.

I cant remember what the stock jetting is, but the only thing you listed that would require a larger main jet is the K&N filter, probably one or 2 sizes larger. You can probably use the stock pilot jets, you may need to make the idle mixture a little richer with the air fuel screws, try one turn out from seated. Pistons wont change the jetting. Your oil mix ratio sounds a little on the rich side too, I would mix about 40:1.

I would go with the pingel now. I never run out of fuel in the carb bowls with my cub.

I couldnt find or suck up with the shop vac any evidence of the piece of piston out of the crank area. The crank still felt very smooth and you could rotate it easily by pushing on the rods. Its been running perfect for a couple of hours now. I knew there was some risk in just doing the top end but so far its working out.

Its been 2 years since my banshee was running. I don't know why I waited so long to fix it, but it was mostly because I didn't have the funds to take it to a shop or send the motor off and have it fixed. I had a piece of piston come off the right piston, caused no damage on that side, went to the left side through the transfer ports and put a bunch of dings in the dome and piston before it exited the exhaust on the left side. Surprisingly the motor was still running ok after that ocured although definitely not 100%. I was worried that the cylinders would be damaged too but amazingly their was just some scuffing on the piston and the cylinders were perfect, not a scratch whatsoever. Anyway, it took about 5 hours to remove cylinders, install new pistons, put it back together, measure squish .044", and she fired up on the second kick and ran perfect. The only difficulty I had was getting the old wrist pins out so I could remove the pistons, but with a few tender love taps they came out. Now the dune fever is starting to kick in.

You need to find out if the cylinders are made to run with a +4mm stroke 115mm long rod crank or a stock stroke/rod crank. You need the correct stroke crank, rod length, domes and cylinder base gasket for it to all fit together correctly and run right with cheetah cylinders.

Could have been a few different things, too low of octane, too tight on the squish, overheating and going WOT up the Sand Mountain drag hill too many times.

Check the thickness of your cylinder base gasket when you pull it apart. Cub cylinders (I assume PV cylinders are simmilar) are made to run with a .012" thickness base gasket. I has a similar squish issue (too big) because I had a stock base gasket witch is around .030" with cub cylinders. Around .040" squish is ideal. That said, I doubt a squish around .060" would cause detonation issues, but it might explain less than expected performance though. You might try a 1cc larger dome (less compression) or run 110 octane to get rid of the detonation problem. The crank seal could be your problem, but I had a motor that detonated on one side before and it wasn't the crank seal.

Yes, we just talked. He said he would refund the return shipping. He said from the picture I sent to him it looks like a Wiseco manufacturing mistake related to installing the ring locator pin. Kind of an unfortunate fluke that costs the shop money and the customer lost time.

I have no idea how the ding got on the piston, and I can see how you'd want to take the side of another shop, but I assure you that I just want the parts that I ordered so I can fix my banshee. I think I've already got the bad end of somebody's scam or mistake.

Sent an e-mail and Tony replied fairly quickly and said Lisa would call me the next day and take care of it. Lisa didn't call, I had to call and she wouldn't pay for the return shipping. She said If I wanted to expedite that I would have to order and pay for another piston and they would refund me when they received the damaged one that I had to send back and pay for the shipping.

I considered that but the damage was right on the corner/edge of the dome and it was bad enough that I think It would cause a failure not to far down the road. Definitely would have had a squish clearance issue if I didn't sand/file it down. Definitely not blaming TDR for the issue, but I don't think they handled the return very fairly or expeditiously. I will say that I do think they sell parts for a decent price though, I was happy with that.

That is about what I was expecting to happen, but not what I got.

I've got a small complaint. I ordered pistons, domes and gaskets from Tony Ducas Racing. One of the pistons arrived damaged. It had a small little ding in the edge of the piston dome and there is no way it happened during shipping. I don't think it was TDR's fault, it would have been nice if they would have checked the parts before they sent them but probably not something you would expect to find on a new piston. I am having to pay the $16 to ship the piston back to them and wait for them to get it and then they'll send a new one. I think they should have sent me a new piston with return shipping for the damaged one to be returned. Wouldn't that be a reasonable business practice since I'm not the one at fault for receiving a damaged item? I'm not real happy about the delay to my project and its even worse that there in FL and I'm in CA.

Ha ha, I see in my old signature it says 19cc domes, but I dont trust that 100%. Anyway I would still have asked the same question. FYI, I never detected any detonation issues in the past but at some point the extra compression is just extra wear and tear on the crank.

Its been many years since I've replaced pistons in a banshee and shes been down for a couple of years now. I have to replace the pistons and domes due to a small chunk of piston above the rings that broke loose, transferred to the other cylinder and squished around and apparently went out the exhaust. Amazingly the bike was still running half way decent and ran for several hours after the piece came loose. I know when it happened due to the spark plug gap got closed. The pistons still move up and down freely and I can't detect any scratches in the cylinder wall. Anyway, the main question. I forgot which size of domes I was running. I need to pick a dome size for cub cylinder +4mm stroke running a .12 base gasket and 110 octane fuel, sea level. I like to have more torque to get my fat ass around in the dune trails without having to get on the pipe all the time. I think I was running 19cc before and was thinking about running 20cc now but when I talked with TDR racing to order some parts they were talking like 20cc was too much compression with a cub motor. Back in the day when cubs were a new popular trend everyone was running a bunch of compression with cubs. These are going to be "off the shelf" pro design domes cut for the 68mm bore and blaster piston dome angle.

Looks like you have enough power to run a taller tire with more paddle but if you dont have an extended swingarm your might find the front end pointed skyward more often than you want. I'd stick with a 20" tire and 8 paddles.

Yeah, I figured it would explain some things, but sometimes what is "leagal" and what is a safety recommendation are quite a bit different.

I heard about Oregon now starting to faze in a safety card that you have to carry showing that you completed a safety course. I checked it out and I see that the course is given on-line and free, so that doesn't seem like a big deal, although it is lame and pisses me off. I'm wondering if there are other BS rules that have been changed or added to the list. The main thing I'm concerned about is if you will still be able to ride with a passenger on an ATV made for 1 rider, that is; can my 5 year old kid ride with me (with a helmet of course)? Also, is Oregon doing the thing now like CA where if the sticker on the ATV/motorcycle says "for 16 or 18 years and older" then as a parent you can get a big ass ticket for letting your kid that is under 16 or 18 ride it. What else did they F-up that I don't even know about yet?

Thanks, I never seem to get as much time as I'd like to go exploring. I'll have to look next time, I have never found any that go all the way down to the Hwy.

I dont cut new trails in the OR dunes. In the woods/mountains in NorCal it is a very big no no. But I will admit, the funnest hill climbs and trails at Winchester are the pioneered trails like the one parallel to banshee hill I mentioned. Most of the hill climbs and trails were made 10-20 years ago. I think the forest service patrols and looks for people blazing new trails which is why I was surprised to see a new hill climb. One thing I dont understand about Winchester though is that there is at least 2-3x more open dune area that was closed off a long time ago. It seams like there would be less pressure on the hill climbs and trails if they were to open this area and the beach.

Any updates on this? The forest service sucks. They are closing down a shit load of logging roads and trails in the Redding area. Sorry about the CA gay area trans plants. They area F**king up Far Nor Cal faster than I thought possible. I have one as a neighbor and it is unbelievable. He comes to the country where everone is friendly and everyone knows everybody else around them, 5 acre minimums so all the houses are well separated, with only 2 other neighbors including myself, and puts up massive privacy fences and security gates.