Patriot Racing

Its possible the circlip came off of the shift fork shaft, thereby allowing the shaft to slide over and push the plug out.

That was some of the feedback that I heard people mentioning- thats why I started posting over here- to try to change that perception....one man's crusade I guess....The site has alot of good content- but some absolute terrible BS too that isnt found on some of the sites I frequent.....

No JKJK isnt me. I got emailed about this thread. At first I didnt want to reply to such BS...but I thought- hey why not...certainly cannot bring the conversation any lower with any I have to say. Im not sure why there is such a problem with taking a product and modifying it so that it works in more than one application. Its done all the time with various engine set-ups, but for some reason- its been declared that you're not allowed to do that with Cheetah Cub cylinders. Anyone care to explain why you cant modify this cylinder so that you have the latest technology to work with? Not every motor that is built has to be built for all out top-end performance. You dont do that when porting stock cylinders- so whats the problem when doing that with a Cub cylinder? The Cub cylinder is a great cylinder to work with. If we can take it and have it make awesome top-end power and then modify it so that it works for a awesome woods motor- why not have a win win. Simply from the standpoint of having a plated bore- a Cub cylinder makes sense. You'll save $100 every time you would have had to bore up your old iron bore cylinder- seems they'll pay for themselves. Couple that with the fact that clearances are tighter and the engines tend to run considerably longer between rebuilds- again you are saving money and it kind of pays for itself. Now add in sub exh ports that this cylinder features you can have good exhaust area so that motor makes good power up top, but you have that area with a longer power stroke. Course there is the added transfer area that lends itself to better mid range power. So if we take a motor that has plenty of exhaust area, bring those port timings down so they work with your pipes- doesnt that make sense? Ive never claimed to have the fastest stuff- never will either. Any chimpanzee can make a peaky all peak power motor- it takes talent to make a wide power spread and have good power as well. Thats what we have always focused on- will continue as well, its what the market wants. Name recognition means nothing to me- my work load does- Ive got plenty to keep my shop busy. Thats my gauge of how things are going- how much work and how many repeat customers I have. Talk all the smack you want, frankly I dont care. Its all free advertising. If Im guilty of building custom motors to fit each customer's needs and not building cookie cutter motors- damn that sure sucks. We'll continue to develope the Cub motor and expand our sales with satisfied customers. BHQ has always been an "interesting" site, and to most in the ATV community the bastard step-child that everyone pointed and laughed at. I used to frequent the site quite a bit and helped out. Definately have little desire to be associated with the shit splattering around here.... Sure are going to attract a knowledge base of forum users who want to share thier knowledge with the junior high insults and bashing. Pretty classless- but I dont care- the site will continue to go downhill on its current track. Thats too bad for those who like coming here to read about their Banshee..... Peace out- ride hard and ride often -Dan

The Cub can be made into a very good trail motor- just takes some thought and a slightly different than bolt-on approach that we are capable of to go make good power. The port timings that the Cubs come with are somewhat aggressive for what most riders would need for trail riding. These are the as-cast set-up. However we can drop the cylinders via no base gasket, and use Banshee pistons- which has a higher pin to timing edge than a Blaster piston does. This sets the port timings lower at TDC- as TDC is now higher in relation to the cylinder. You can also deck the base of the cylinder to drop the port timings. The Cubs are an absolutely astounding cylinder- they have great potential- instead of us having to work to squeak out the ever-last little bit of HP and Tq from the crappy stock cylinders- we are actually having to look to de-tune the port timings some to make it a more favorable trail motor. So absolutely yes the Cub can be set-up to made a good trail motor- just as mentioned takes a bit of tweaking to adapt it to an application.

Looks like a CrankWorks with Wiseco rods. Youve got a good crank.

hard to describe typing it---- but use rod ends (heim joints) to build the 4 longer segments. Then weld on U shaped brackets to throw a bolt thru on the frame. Then build you rear plate for the seat latch and 4 more brackets for other end of the segements to attach to. Silencer bracket and youve got a removable sub frame. The geometry is there to make it stiff, but the adjustablility of the rod ends makes it all fit nice....

Get the cast unit. The billet unit is just bling and doesnt offer any advantage over what the cast one can. Save the $ for some other mod!!!

32:1 Never tore down a motor because of too much oil.

Custom domes are the way to go. Your friend is correct, the port timing is most often more favorable with running the stroke out of the top of the cylinders. The spacer adds more potential failure points. The cost of PD domes and spacers, we can getcha setup with custom domes. Shoot us an email. Thanks, Dan

The goods- increased reed area. More flow = more go The bads- Cost- not only is it quite expensive to fab and graft on new reed boxes, but you really need the rest of the cylinder set-up to take advantage of the bigger reeds. The transfers require substantial amount of work to use the available flow. Problem is you start to get close to what an aftermarket cylinder set costs that comes with those reeds already!!!

Oilsmoke .003 for most motors in a fresh bore. Ruko- old worn out parts then- just too much time on those pistons. Id be interested to see the rings themselves- as you have ran such a lean oil ratio, I think the ring wear was accelerated. You all ran the same mix correct???? Ive never torn down an blown engine from too much premix oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A wet clutch lasts longer with good fresh oil!!!!!

The ring end locating pin can work loose from a sloppy bore. The piston rattles in the bore and causes the pin to walk out. Did they mike out the piston clearance with the worn pistons or just mike the bore and install new pistons? Id wouldnt be suprised to have seen a piston clearance of .006 or greater.

A good head set-up is absoluetly going to get you more power and with greater safety from detonation than carbs will. Stock Banshee carbs work pretty well, and unless there is some decent cylinder mods done, they will work just fine. The money is better spent on a quality head.

The big end rod bearings are most likely going to be OK and not need any parts replaced other than fresh gaskets. When the pistons are removed, not a bad idea to replace those bearings- the wrist pin bearings- and use NEW circlips for the install.

This is JMHO, but I dont like Cometic gaskets. Without the steel core that most have, Ive had issues with Cometic pushing and leaking. Also the Cometic gaskets are MUCH thinner than stock and if Lynn set up your head predicated on a specific deck hgt- you can run into problems. Cant ever go wrong with stock base gaskets.

Yes you can TIG weld it. But say bye bye to any coating in that area.

There are other Co's making lock-ups now. There is a slightly different design that is better IMO. At very least the manufacturing process is better. www.mattoonmachine.com We're a dealer for them. Set-up. Try run a best combination of springs and wgt on the cam arms. Dont want too much of either. With fairly decent springs and only a little bit of cam arm wgt you will be able to shift using the clutch at RPM.

Lets say we apply a different angle to this all...and say something like would generic cookie cutter porting along the lines of something you buy right off the shelf run best for your style of riding???? (and the list can easily go on and on and on of fuel choice, engine config, elevation....)I think most people would rather quickly and assuredly say HECK NO! Is porting suited for my style of riding going to work best for me. I think most people would rather quickly and assuredly sayd HECK YEAH!!! Why wouldnt this same theory apply to heads and their design? There is no reason it doesnt. A custom designed head configuration is always going to bring more power and bring reliability with it. Im a little lost as to why everyone fights against this so hard. I can come up with a hundred scenarios like the above deal with the porting example that everyone would immeadiately and very strongly say yes that matters, but when it comes to custom heads everyone fights against it so strongly.

Thanks BenBB...the RZ-Shee conversion is gain quite a bit of popularity....RZ parts are getting harder to find cheap....We've even built a few 4mm stroker RZ-Shees now- talk about I dont ride fast, I just fly low!!!!!

Hey guys again thanks for the good words.... lefty you are ok...I just couldnt see how someone could be without thier stuff for so long!!!! No harm, no foul... As for you Meat....7mm stroker crank....what 7mm stroker crank

Trapped volume at TDC should be 13cc....the piston crown will displace volume into the dome netting you that trapped volume....

Does the FMF stamped logo have a circle around it or just FMF and kinda tilted to one side? If its the tilted logo, those are old school gold series....spongey bottom end, wicked hit in the middle, and rev out pretty dang good!!!

We use a regular rod (110mm) 4mm crank with custom cut domes. By running the added stroke out of the top of the cylinders, this can allow previously ported cylinders to be used (in some cases not always) as TDC to port hgt has been increased by that port hgt. Alter the porting to match the desired output of the motor and the little 4mm motors can fly!!! We can also cut the stock head to work with the stroker. The advantage is as above, but also you are removing a potential leak point if spacers are used. Additionally when we cut domes or cut the stock head- you gain the performance and safety of having the head design correctly set-up for your fuel and riding type. The rod to stroke ratio on a Banshee is pretty long to begin with. We've built many long rod motors and none of them ran any harder than a regular rod motor. Piston wear and stress were nearly the same. However the power delivery of the regular rod motors were more favorable for most riders.

For any of the bigger monoblock PV cylinders, I really recommend that you tunnel port them at the same time. Even with the smaller motors (420cc). The transfer tunnels are too small to begin with and now you throw a motor of much larger size on it...its not going to run as well...it really needs to breathe!!!! After tunnel porting.....well....the Cheetah set-up is really nice for the everyday rider and even into some drag racing. For all out bringin everything you can drag racing- I prefer the T-Rex set-up. IMO Id look at a 421 Cheetah set-up. The added stroke definately helps. One other route to consider is a stock cylinder stroker motor. Either a 7mm or a 10mm. Those motors can be built somewhat cheaper than a monoblock PV set-up and run dang near just as well! The 10mm stock cyl set-up is going to run just as good most of the 400cc range PV set-ups.