Wheelies. I would like to get some nice street tires for the front, put it on asphalt, and try a stoppie on a shee. It is easy enough on a bike, can't be much harder on a shee with apprioriate tires, pavement, and weight distribution.
The best head for a shee isn't made any longer. Trinity used to make a head that had 2 plugs per cylinder so you had to run four coils but it was worth it. I sold that shee long ago and miss it. Great head, the best I've ever had.
If you are going to pend the money on sleeves, shipping, resleeving, machining, etc. You might as well buy a T-REX kit from TDR. Powervavles are sweet.
The first time I cut my airbox...well, I made it look like a convertible. I just left that little side piece around the parameter that the clamps attach to and the trimmed off everything else except the snorkel head.
They are the best in all of car audio land.... ....and for 150-200 bucks you are getting your ass riped.
SAVE THE MONEY....GOOD THINGS HAPPEN TO THOSE WHO WAIT
Ahh...the notorious bazooka. Also known as the best sub system in car audio. Not only are they used in SPL competition but they are highy regarded as the best quality sub with many sound fidelity people. The bazooka system was actually classified by the governement upon its design in 1949 for fear it would desrupt the world economy and cause mass epidemics. It was only now after the marvels of modern medicine and the help of Mr. Greenspan lowering interest rates that the bazooka system may be fully utilized.
I highly recommend running (2) Matts class D amps per bazooka. You might also need a bank of caps and batteries.
Bazooka's suck more than anything that I have ever heard. I won a BassBlaster (Bazooka's brother) by Roadmaster at a car show last spring. You pay shipping and you can have the thing.
SAVE YOUR MONEY....YOUR GOING TO MAKE A BIG MISTAKE
No particular reason. One thing to do for machine longevity...Get some YAMABOND-4 and a new stator gasket and seal that baby up tight as you can. A stator likes to be dry.
Blue Duece, I have been meaning to ask you; What type of time, distance does it take you to get to 125mph? I remember reading the build on that engine and it was very impressive back then.
Advice
Have these ready:
Dremel with sanding bits to get the roguhness mostly out
paint stripping gun to round the edges
Your preferred saw
Tape measure
masking tape-keep a nice true line on the curvature
marker
good luck
There are two products out now that I am a fan of for the garage. Simple Green and Greased Lightning. The easiest way to clean the thing up though is to buy a nice set of gaskets and oil seals, strip the shee down and give each part the attention that it deserves while checking the clearances of all of the vitals; Maybe catch a bad thing early on. Remember that the outside is a tell-tell sign of how you maintain the machine.
Stay away from the pressure washer and steam. Both can be detrimental to your ignition system. Nothing beats good, thorough hand washing with a low pressure water source.
Hooker Headers=409.95
Weiland intake (satin finsh)=549.95
NOS kit=709.95
Crane HI-6S ignition=179.95+21.95 for the adapter
Salvation Army Subs= less than 306, sound quality=stuff in Walmarts crapper
Looking at this scenerio, you should either save your money for the extra ponies or blow it on an ignition that will be able to cope with things that you will do to it later in life.
You should save the money for better things like nitrous and superchargers.
Yeah, I have to admit maybe hundreds of years ago ninjas may have been cool but now we have what is called the NAVY SEALS, RANGERS, etc. There is a coolness factor there that the ninja can't reach with their curved pocket knife. Come on, grunts with night vision and gun versus queer eye for the straight guy team in black with pocket knifes.