Basicorpse

I dont really like the idea of grinding down a part of my frame. Couldn't I just grind down the top and bottom and the shock a little to get it to fit?

I emailed the guy I bought the cylinders from and he was running 270 mains with the porting, dmc pipes, and holes in the air box lid at an elevation of 550 feet. To me it seems as though he was running lean. But can porting actually make your jetting go down?

I recently ordered some ported cylinders with pistons off ebay. My main jet was 290, stock pilot with toomey t5s and removed air box lid before the port. What is a good place to start after the port? I know it is port specific but I would like to know what jet range to order.

Just a thought but were you running pump gas or race gas? I am fairly certain with the advanced timing you are supposed to run higher octane fuel.

Yea that is what I am thinking. Do you know where I can get a cheap crank from?

I believe my carbs are already bored. Or at least they are rifled they have a spiral like pattern machined into them. Like that when I got the bike. I have t5 pipes already so that should be good I heard they respond well to porting. Is your porting stroker specific or is it just general porting? Who did the porting for you? I am in need of 1 cylinder should I just buy 1 and have them bored to match each other or buy a pair? Also thanks for pointing out its not a stroker crank I just saw the +5 mm and automatically thought stroker. Big mistake, although it does come with spacer plates so it must increase displacement some.

What do you think of this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=34284 Running with stock cylinders until next season when I can afford a stroker specific port job. How much power increase will I see with stock porting? What if i just have a regular mx port on the cylinders done will it affect anything with the stroker?

My budget is around 700-800 range.

Will you do a package deal on the stroker crank and top end? If so I am interested.

I threw a rod on my shee and destroyed one of the cylinders and piston. One of my rods are also bent. The crankcase has a few grooves in it but seems to be usable. I am thinking about doing either a 4mm stroker crank and getting it ported over the winter. Or just getting new ported cylinders and pistons and grab a cheap stock crank. What do you guys reccomend?

The dyna fs ignition is designed to be used with all stock coils and plug wires. At least thats what the instruction manual for it states.

Yea it definetly could be an air leak. My quad was doing the same thing and a few days later while riding it, it just died. Turns out my spark plug had vibrated loose causing a lean condition which made my piston on that side disengrate.

I have the same setup as you white and red plastics. I bought a DMP graphics kit off ebay that came with the seat cover for $70. Here is a bad pic of my shee from a long time ago.

I rode 45 miles on a full tank and still hadnt hit my reserve yet. I was riding with my buddy on his kodiak 450 so he kept track of the mileage we rode on his odometer. Needless to say I was quite happy with the gas mileage I got.

Yea its a +2 axle for a raptor meaning that it should be stock length for a banshee. Thanks for the replies guys.

My buddy found a great deal on a lone star raptor axle and I was just wondering if it would bolt right up to the banshee with no problems, or modifications.

My buddy accidently kicked up a rock and cracked my stock head light tonite so I just ordered a set of trail tech lights tonite. I will report back when I get them installed.

A guy on ebay sells them. In the auction it states that you can custom request any color you want. I have also seen them on albas website.

I may be willing to buy the a arms and the shocks as a package, depending how much would you knock off.

I am intrested in the a arms and the shocks let me know a price.

I would definetly get new needles if I were you. You dont want them binding up in there. I have a set of toomey needles in my carbs and I am very happy with them.

Thanks I'll definetly have to try that. Do you think home depot or ace hardware would have something like that?

Im using belrays gear saver oil 80w. The wierd thing is I have been running it for a while with no leaks, then all of a sudden it started leaking.

So my shift shift was leaking oil so I think ok no big deal I'll just replace the seal and everything will be fine.. nope still leaked. Then I went out and bought a new shift shaft and another new seal. After replacing the shift shaft and the shifter seal the thing still leaks! It is leaking from the inside of the seal where the shaft goes through. It is not leaking from where the seal meets the case. I have a bran new shaft and seal it should not be leaking... My machine has me so frustrated right now I am thinking about selling it please help me!

I figured it out... The one that isnt grinded is first gear, since no one is going to shift from netrual to first under power it isnt neccessary to grind it down.