PassionRE

If you decide to shave .030" off, be sure to check squish clearance before running the engine. I usually reccomend no less than .028" squish on anything other than full race engines. The Noss head is a wiser choice for many reasons....appearance, cooling capacity, and flexibility down the road in different porting arangements and engine configurations...just dish out the bucks for the Noss head, save time and effort...you wont be sorry...Jim

Vintage motorcycles, foreign cars, RC Aircraft, Bass Fishing, Jet Ski's, camping,Gunsmithing, Vintage stereo amplifiers, aquariums..etc. etc.,etc..Jim

Your gauge is acting up, you an ck the compression without carbs ....Jim

Sounds as if you got a great deal there IMO...Jim

Go with a +4 long rod stroker..you will never regret it...a whole new level of fear, or fun, however you look at it...Jim

Thanks man, let me know how those work out, Ive got a set of round 34,s I'd like to bring back from the junk heap!...LOL..thanks again..Jim

There you go, thats a good looking filter set-up, although extend those runner tubes to 3.5to 4 inches in length. As for HP, who knows mid 60's maybe depends on how it's done.....Jim

Justin, if you nicked a sealing lip you might notice a little reversion on the intakes at the back of the carbs at low rpm( spitting air out instead of sucking air in). Are you sure your pilot jets are both clean? If one pipe is HOT and one COLD, I cant help but think you have a clogged jet, sync is way out, or like you said, one reed is screwed....Also, screw in a new set of plugs just for good measure...Jim

Not sure what your saying Justin about the reeds. Hey, when you checked your compression last week, were you holding the throttle wide open when you were checking it?...Jim

I doubt it Justin...your motor needs so much more air than its getting I'm sure you'll be ok until you get the v-forces..Jim

I was digging around in my little black book and found Factory Yamaha Roadrace specs on RZ reed cages. Widen openings 1.5mm, Raise openings 4.5 mm and lower openings 4.5mm. All cuts should be at 16 degrees and corners should be at 5 mm radiuses...just a tid bit if your interested...Jim

Blue Duece, your motor was in pretty good shape, minimal wear at best. Foam filters work really good if oiled well. The gauze is alot tougher and can take alot more abuse. Does outerwear make a pre-filter for a gauze single unit?...that might work best in harsh enviroments. Or maybe a foam pre-filter for a gauze unit?..Jim

Duece, dont fool youself, your going to have good grunt off the bottom and a solid seamless pull to mega rpm as well..Jim

XTShee, I'm no young pup anymore and any more power than one of my +4's would require a death wish in my opinion..Jim

Honda GN2 works great for break in...just run about 2 gallons of fuel with the regular Honda oil before you switch over the the synthetic stuff..its really neccessary IMO...Jim

On the +4,(preferrably long rod) the first thing that comes to mind is definately porting, without it your just wasting time. Next, a Noss head with appropriate domes for your needs. A set of PJ34's, intake manifold, and v-force reeds with single K&N breather. And a adjustable timing plate or Dyna programable ignition to top it off. Get the porting right and your bike will make more power than you need in any rpm range...aka.. incredible acceleration right off the bottom all the way through bigtime rpm...Jim

XTShee..no problem at all, I will walk you through the entire project...Jim

There is nothing Mickey Mouse about decking from the bottom. Basicly it's just an aluminum base gasket. It is a sound design and will no cause any problems if installed correctly. As for your T-5's, a 4mm long rod crank will agree with those pipes just fine, better than fine actually...Jim

Justin, I run 927 at 40-1 in all out race only engines with no problems. If your a little squeemish, back it up to 36-1 and you will be in great shape. Also, Ive been running 927 for over 15 years with fabulous results. Just remember to shake your pre-mix cans before refueling...everytime!...Jim

From the text I've read the flat slides do provide better throttle response and Keihin indicates that as well on their websight. Personally, I have experienced the same thing. As for all out top end power? It seems to me that a WOT is a WOT. Both carbs have round venturis and the slide is completely out of the way at WOT. It would seem to me that CFM ratings would be comparable at WOT. As for large carbs vs. smaller carbs, I can appreciate the fact that some guys like that right off idle lugging ability, like a Banshee has alot of that to begin with! Its just most of the guys I run into are looking for that blistering acceleration and top end at the expense of a little bottom end. If you like to chug around, go with the small stuff, if you want real G-force, on a ported motor anyway, you better give it some more carb, unless ofcourse you are running a really mild(yeah, I feel an increase?)type of porting arrangement. Strokers will take bigger carbs no problem if ported correctly and you can have your cake and eat it to...Jim

Thanks Blue Duece, I contacted Demonspeeding1. Justintoxicated!..370's and may need more?...gee, sounds as if that 12 port engine processes fuel at a alarming rate!..LMAO...enjoy...Jim

Try Nevr-Dull manufactured by Eagle One products. Its amazing what that stuff will do, short of having them professionally buffed, Nevr-Dull is about as good as it gets..Jim

Fixitrod you would be suprised how many good engine builders exist across the nation. The 3 top builders that I personally know of dont even build engines anymore, and you probably have never heard of them. And keep in mind as well that Banshee motors are probably one of the easiest motors there is to gain h.p. in my opinion. You should try getting over 100 h.p. out of a jet ski engine designed in the forties originally designed for around 20 h.p. I can base my opinions on what I personally see on the track and by what others have told me about others engines...hard facts, not emotional bias's. Dan has a great reputation, and GRR as well, Trinity has built some great stuff in the past but appears to become the Wal-mart of banshee mods and the attention to detail is pathetic anymore as far as porting is concerned. There are many others as well. Even with this said though, I still question some of the other engine builders concepts on stroker motors and how to set them up where cooling issues are concerned. My best advice is to go to the tracks and see who is winning and ask questions and names. Other than that, a forum such as this one is a good source as long as you trust who is giving the advice...Jim

Oilsmoke, I think your thinking that decking means milling. When I say deck from the bottom, I mean to add the spacer on the bottom, not mill the surface. The 795 series pistons are 5mm shorter than the regular pro-lites, this is to compensate for the long rods, not the stroke. The additional crank pin off-set of 2mm of a +4 crank has to be compensated for, otherwise your pistons will protrude 2mm over the top surface of the cylinders and crash into the head...does that make sense?...Jim

927 will not clog up your motor. It is quite possibly the best oil you can buy at any price. Its film strength and bearing protection are as good as anything available...Jim