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PassionRE

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Everything posted by PassionRE

  1. David, I got that shipping notification. Were you shipping Jack's domes to me?...Jim
  2. UPS just left with the goods Dee....so sorry for the delays...Jim
  3. Dont worry Dee, a set of "new and improved"(otherwise known as "TTE's") is being overnighted to your neighborhood tonight, if the damn UPS guy will show. There's more where those came from...Jim
  4. Duece, back that countershaft back to a 38 and see how it does...Jim
  5. Duece, didn't I tell you that you may need to gear up on that 12 port for better top-end?...Jim
  6. Hey Proquad101!....Are you gonna pull those jugs and bring em' over before the Shootout? A new and improved version is waiting for you...call me when you get a chance...Jim
  7. Leave the jugs on, your compression is reading better than it did after 2 hours of use, obviously the rings are seating in just great. Wipe off the pistons with some carb spray and reinstall the head. Eventually after you figure out that cold pipe at idle everything will be just peachy. How does it run?...Jim
  8. Justin, that burn pattern on the domes is absolutely perfect. Notice on the Left hand dome how one side(exhaust side) has a little discoloration and the back(carb side) and partial sides are really clean, they look like that because of how I set up your transfer ports. The mixture is aimed at the rear and up more than normal coming out of the transfers and washing those domes clean at the rear and sides. That is picture perfect burn pattern...just what I had in mind. A coolant leak will wash those pistons clean and obviously thats not happening. Its possible that if you would have rapped it out bigtime before that last compression check like SDD suggested, that the right dome would have been clean as well. Take care of yourself and get well...I dont see anything that scares me in the least goin' on with your engine. Im sure you'll get to the bottom of your carbon issue once you get back on your feet...Jim
  9. mcaf29, the crank halves are phased 180 degrees from each other. You can ck this using a degree wheel and dial indicators, definately not a "quick" task but it can be done without disassembly of the motor, try the flwheel first. Are you sure all the motor mounts are tightened properly?...Jim
  10. SDD, I paint the intakes and transfers on final inspection of porting to check for low spots and distortions in the porting. Its hard to see uneven surfaces in these areas because of all the light refractions on a burnished finish. Yes, the air fuel mixture will remove this paint over time just like the factory paint Yamaha sprays them with. Its really hard to tell with the pics, but I suppose that could be part of it although it appears the carbon build-up is more on one side than the other. I think he is having a problem with carb sync or a problem with one of the carbs. He has one pipe getting hotter at idle than the other. But the bike hits on both by just moving the throttle a tad. I cant help but think that is why it looks to be burning uneven......Jim
  11. First guess would be the flywheel is out of balance. 2nd guess is crank is out of phase, just slightly is enough. Try yhrowing your stock flywheel back on and see if it helps...Jim
  12. Justin, I had a few other thoughts while out at dinner. Are you sure your float level on that rich looking cylinder is not high? Or maybe some grit on the needle & seat? Is that the side you found the grit in the jets? One other thought, did you have any trouble or issues installing that R.H. crank seal? Did you eyeball ck the trueness of the driveside of the crank after being welded? I just did a crank that was .024" out on the driveside. Being far out on runout will cause that R.H. seal to suck tranny oil out of the tranny and cause major carbon build-up like that...just a few thoughts...Jim
  13. Fixitrod, have you seen one of those in person, the crossover is about 3/4 the normal crossover size and blends nicely in the intake tract...should work good as stock. Screamin Banshee, its really irrelevent if you run a crossover or not on your engine considering the circumstances. They do tend to idle better with them, but most of the engines I build, the people are really not concerned with this and shouldn't be really, especially if they want all out rippin horsepower. I have your cylinders almost ready and hope to ship within the week...waiting on pistons as always...Jim
  14. You dont want to polish transfers or intakes or rear boost ports...smooth with slight texture, but not poilished. Exhaust ports can be polished but dont waste your life so you can see your face in them...you'll gain nothing, but they should be glossy in appearance. As for porting...there is NO substitute if done properly...Jim
  15. If your carbs will clear the block, dont run the spacers...Ive seen those...great deal....Jim
  16. Blue Duece, Im not sure why those dont work...go to Engine section and look for the Oilsmoke post under balance tubes..those links work...Jim
  17. Oilsmoke, I use Wiseco hot rods+4 long rod cranks only...affordable and put together real nice...Jim
  18. I cant get those links to work but I posted them on that post you put on about the equalizer tubes Oilsmoke...ck em out...Jim
  19. http://zepher.bikepics.com/pics/yamaha-rd4...pics-084960.jpg http://zepher.bikepics.com/pics/yamaha-rd4...pics-084963.jpg Are you talking 1/2 inch reed spacers? On tha Boss racing manifold I wouldn't recomend it it puts the reeds too far from the throttle slide IMO...Jim
  20. Oilsmoke, did you see the pics of that 34mm intake I posted?...thats the piece that went on Blue Dueces monster motor...Jim
  21. Oh Yeah, duning on the long rod..PJ34 Keihin's all the way with 4 inch runners on the breathers into a single K&N...Jim
  22. 1/2?........ 795 series Wiseco's pistons on the long rods...Jim
  23. Stroker is a different crankshaft with longer stroke than normal, usually 4-10 mm normally. This increases displacement and low end torque although if built properly will still rev like crazy on the top-end...Jim
  24. Slightly crisper on the bottom without, stable, predictable idle with, Boss Racing makes a killer billet model one piece with the crossover out of sight... Jim http://zepher.bikepics.com/pics/yamaha-rd4...pics-084960.jpg http://zepher.bikepics.com/pics/yamaha-rd4...pics-084963.jpg
  25. With your style of riding a Dune Port would serve you well. Killer acceleration, midrange and top-end. Maintains great power under load such as long inclined hills etc. some bottom end loss, but not severe....Jim
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