CoolRaptor2001

Ok cool, thanks Scott What arms do you have may I ask?

Iam gonna be looking for a cheap but well-built a arm setup for when I start going to the MX track next summer and was wondering what your opinions on? Also, Hiems vs ball joints, ive heard Hiems are stronger but dont last as long and shouldnt get mud or anything in/on them? I will be riding mostly gravel roads and some light mud when I cant go to the MX track. Also, what do you think of the Alba Pro-Comp suspension package? Ive never talked to anyone that had the alba arms so I dont know if they are any good or not. The quicksand parts look pretty nice I thought but is the swingarm chromoly? It just says chrome steel on the site, does that mean milled steal or??? Thanks for any/all replies

Same exact thing happend to me. The threads on the plastic cap thing on mine are stripped though. Might want to check and see if yours are too If they are, and it wont go back on, put some teflon tape around the threads on the carb then screw it on somewat untill its tight as it can be without coming loose again. Then use a few zip-ties from the bottom of the carb to the top of the TORS and from the choke lever place to the TORS and back. Thats what I did because I dont have the $$ for a removal kit right now. Make sure its on straight, and is 'seated' down in there right or else the slide in the left carb might be half open (which is bad cuz it means throttle gets stuck). Dont go on any long trips untill your sure it will stay on. Trust me..learned from experiences...1 day after getting m 'shee P.S.-Make sure the little gasket isent tangled up in the spring under the cap on top of the carb.

Oh, ok thanks for lettin' me know that If I ride it as normal will it screw up anything? Its not dragging quite as bad now (or so it seems).

The clutch arm and arrow on t he side case are not lined up. The clutch arm is facing out away from the motor. I adjusted the clutch with the clutch perch thing and got them to line up, but then when I would roll it when it was in gear it would roll the same rather I had the clutch pulled in or not. So I put it back the way I had it. As it is now, it grips good and dosent seem to slip when iam riding it but if I roll it when its in gear its a little harder to push. Not as bad as before though. Like I said, if I just put it in neutral instead of using clutch whenever I stop untill I can fix it will that do any damage? Thanks again

Ok thanks for the explanation. I dont have a clymer manual yet either so I dont think I should mess with it untill I get one. Will it do any damage if I leave it as-is untill I can get a manual? I dont make a habit of holding the clutch in, I put it in neutral as soon as I stop. I usualy dont slip the clutch either besides when taking off like normal. Thakns for your replies

Got my shifter from EastCoast ATV today. Its coated with some gold stuff to keep it from rusting, which enhances the bling factor even though its a stock part If you need stock parts dont be afraid to call East Coast. They found the part right away and shipped it the same day. P.S.-The shift shaft is fine and everything works now.

Ohh ok On the cut plastic question: I always heard that MX races cut the front fenders so they could see where the front tires were so they could corner without hitting the inside of the turn. 'Course jumping as high as they do I imagine aerodynamics do play a factor like they said.

Grab bar= Roughly $60 Frame=$2-500 That comment=priceless

I havent been able to ride my banshee for a week because iam waiting on a shifter. Its in 1st gear now and I cant change it because the shifter threads are gone. When I try to roll it, even with the clutch pulled in, it drags to the point where in gravel the tires will sometimes lock up. I thought maybe the tranny oil was low or something so I checked it, it didnt even show up on the dip stick. So I got on here and used the SEARCH and found out what kind, how much, etc oil to use. Then I drained what oil was in there, put 1.8 quarts of yamalube 10w30 oil I put in my dirtbike in there. Found out that was to much because it was half way up the dip stick. Drained some out, got it to where is just slightly above the marking at the end of it. When I roll it, same story. It gets a little easier to roll after I push it about 5-10 feet but then once I stop for a second or two it gets real hard again. When I did ride it I noticed it would creep some if I had it in first gear and gave it any throttle (with clutch pulled in). Sorry for the book, just thought I would be as descriptive as possible. Thanks for any replies

The TORS can give ya some trouble if it decides it dosent like you. Also, someone on here said if you get the carbs wet when its hot it will either bog real bad or rev like crazy. Iam a newbie banshee owner (got it last week) so I dont know nearly as much as the rest of the people on here from experiences, but thats what I do know. hope that helps

Ive been riding dirtbikes since I was like 7 but just recently (past few years) have gotten into quads. Iam 16 now but I dont have as much as experience with realy hopped up machines like you do, and I still got used to my banshee alright. Just take your time and use your head. As long as your carefull and dont try to go flyin' around on your first try you should be fine with getting a banshee Goodluck!

^^Maybe thats why your called oilsmoke? But seriously thanks for tellin me the ratios like that!

Theres nothing on the label about mixing ratios or anything. Ill check and see if they have a Ratio Rite thing when I go get the repair manual. Does 40:1 sound alright for my motor? Or should I add a tad bit extra? The plugs look dry, the tips look good, and it dosent smoke except when I get on the gas hard and it only puffs then. On the bottle it says Caster927 hi performance 2-cycle oil (Racing Formula, premix only) <Should I look for (if it even exists) non-racing formula? The guy just told me Castor927 he didnt specify racing or not. Thanks for all your helpfull replies!

The guy I got my 'shee from said to put one 16 ounce (1 pint) of Castor927 per 5 gallon of gas. What is the ratio on that? I dunno exactly but it seems a little low? The motor is stock besides bored .40 over. How much oil would you all recommend I put in per 5 gallons of gas? Or how many ounces per gallon? Yeah I know, the fuel ratio posts are getting old. I looked at some of the other posts but just wanna be extra sure.

Ahh ok thats good news. Iam pretty sure its just the shifter, because some of the threads simply arent there. Its smooth in some parts. But if it does turn out to be the shift shaft I might 'white-trash' it as well untill I feel like putting a new shift shaft in If I did that and had it welded into place, it shouldnt be a big deal to take it out if/when I put a new shaft on. Just cut the shifter off, hillbilly style

Hey, me yet again. I ordered a new shift lever from EastCoastATV, it should be here wednesday or thursday. Before my shifter started slipping real bad, I couldnt reach it. It was down way to far I couldnt get the toe of my boot up under it. I moved the shifter up a few clicks and it worked great but then it started slipping real bad and now it wont grab at all. Hence iam ordering another one. What I want to know is when I get the new one can I move the shifter up a little bit without risking rounding off the teeth? Iam not sure because of the little half moon shaped thing, I dunno if it will bite good enough if I got it moved up. its a stupid question I know. Just thought i would check with you all first

I just went out in the garage and checked it. I bolted it back up and it was still slipping so I took it back off, cleaned out all the splines, then put it back on there with the shift lever angle down more than I had it earlier. The shift lever is still real loose but it refuses to skip or come off with the bolt in it now. See, the night I brought it home I adjusted the shift lever up some because I couldnt reach it very good. I guess that made it so it wouldnt sit in that 'half moon' thing and thats why it was slipping. I guess it was just me being stupid that I didnt notice that half moon on that shaft earlier since I had the shift lever off so many times Fun fun....sorry for taking up all your time on something SO stupid

The shaft AND shifter are badly worn. But iam pretty sure the half moon wasent in there earlier because ive had the shifter off like 5 times trying to figure out how to keep it from slipping. Ok so I guess ill drain the oil just to be safe. Is the clutch hard to remove? Iam gonna get a clymers manual when I go to the stealership and order a new shift shaft and I might as well pick one up then. WIll the manual show me how to do all that without damaging anything? I cant afford nor do I want to take it somewere to have it worked on but I dont want to mess it up anymore than I have too

Oh..that easy huh? THANKS alot, i was worried for a while there thinking I would have to split the cases and all that Thanks for your replies everyone, dunno what I would do without your help (even though ive only had my shee 3 days) Thanks again!

Thats what I was worried about, cracking the cases. Would I have to do that if I just took the right side cover off? Once its ''un-hooked'' from the stuff on the right side will it just slide out or is there any other stuff i gotta watch out for? Thanks for your quick replies

My shifter has been slipping real bad because the teeth on the shift lever its self are gone, as well as the bolt that goes thru the lever. so I put a new bolt, same size and everything, thru the lever and slowly tightened it down. It went on easy, just like the original bolt. BUT, when I checked the shift lever by shaking it, it fell straight down. I took the lever back off to discover the shift shaft now has a half circle cut in it. Like I used a to large of bolt or something only I didnt. Needless to say, I need a new one. What all is involved in changing the shift shaft? does the motor have to come out and be taken all apart like iam thinking?

I have Blue Ice I think its called and its suppose to keep the temps down ive heard. Probably simular to water wetter. The antifreeze was running a little low the other day (judging by the bottle under the seat) and i just put some regular car antifreeze in it to top it off. I dont think it matters what kind of coolant you use but I could be wrong. I was told by the guy I bought my 'shee from to put 16oz bottle of caster927 per 5 gallon gas tank. Does that sound about right? Its stock besides being .40 over if that helps.

I tried that, the caps are already stripped on the left side. As far as I can tell, the right side is pretty tight, even has the gold retainer. I put that white tape on the threads on the carb, then i pushed the cap down and turned it some like i was screwing it on. That held it pretty tight but it still came loose after a few mins of riding so thats when I got the zip-ties out

Well, the white tape didnt work. Made it up and down my driveway 2 times before coming right back off. I finaly (after pushing i down back into position) got like 5 or 6 zip-ties and put them around the bottom of the carb to the top of the TORS thing. I put the ties at diff. angles so it is on there nice and tight. I rode around for about 10 minutes before it got dark and it held on just fine. I think that its, but you never know P.S.- Iam pretty sure the reason why it kept coming off was the gold clip type thing that screws into the carb and holds the round plastic thing on was missing.