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sredish

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Everything posted by sredish

  1. The "R" has ZERO effect on how the motor runs. It's merely to eliminate any interference with electronic ignitions. Chances are, the B8ES will be fine with your ignition, but if you had an aftermarket one or something else on the bike that could be interfered with and malfunction, thats where the BR8ES comes in. Motor wise, there is ZERO difference.
  2. Fatties for overall track an trail riding can't be beat. They're also one of the most economical sets you can buy. FYI - I have a set of PT mics that have been ceramiced for sale. They have some dents and stuff on the pipe but they work perfectly and don't look too bad. -$250 shipped and that's about 30% of the price of new ones.
  3. think he means aftmkt shock for a -2 swinger, but it is a bit confusing. took me a few to figure it out.
  4. herd dat....
  5. Well, you have to put a 6mm ( I think) socket on the top of the slide and unscrew the needle top and then your needle should fall right out when turning over the slide. Look in the top of the slide and you'll see the little hex top to put the socket on.
  6. Ok, here's what you do. If it's always the same cylinder that misfires, then swap plug boots. If it follows the swap then it's electrical. You can put an inductive timing light on the plug, just hook the wires up to a car battery or something and then the hook it up to the plug wire and verify that it's getting good spark. That'll eliminate electrical or not really quick. If electrical is good, then it's air/fuel somehow. Check your crossover tube. Pull the carbs and check them and the reeds. Maybe even swap the reeds when putting it back together to see if it follows the reeds. Is your fuel new? Do you have new plugs in there?
  7. Shouldn't be carbon. Two-stroke plugs will get a chocolate color from the oil in the premix burning. Too much of this premix fuel will cause it to blacken more and possibly foul out. What you were probably seeing is a semi-rich plug that looked kind of black with oil on it.
  8. chances are with 18cc domes, he'll need to use race gas, depends on his elevation to be 100% sure.
  9. crossover tube??
  10. worth a shot. is it only at full throttle, just when you punch it, or exactly when is it happening?
  11. If you have access to a machinist, that could be good, just need to find out the specs of the type of portwork you want. Generally, just a good machinist and powered handtools are what does the job. As far as the pipes, it should be reworded that the SST's don't respond AS well. They will respond in a positive way, it's not like the bike will run bad. it'll run much better than it does now, however, the possible gains could go up with a set of pipes that respond better, make sense? I'd port the cylinders and keep the SST's and see how you like it afterwards. Down the road, if you think you'd be better off with another set of pipes, deal with it then, but you'll get some decent gain out of the SST's with portwork, for sure. Rejetting is not necessary when advancing the timing, it has no effect on air/fuel ratio going into the motor, just when the spark occurs. Boonman can lighten the flywheel if necessary and mill the head for more compression if need be, but sounds like you have a good set of machinists there that could mill the head for you. Scott
  12. Hmm, funny. I'm at roughly 665', so pretty close there.
  13. CarbParts.com Click that link and call them directly. Great people.
  14. What's your wife riding? 145 isn't bad at all, I'm at about 148 on a fresh topend and 20cc domes.
  15. Yes. Good portwork, compression and the right set of pipes is the key.
  16. My cammed, piped, geared, intaked 450r can easily hang with piped Banshees. They don't walk all over me for sure. In fact, a mild ported Banshee is about neck and neck through the lower part of the top end but if there's enough room, it'll start overtaking.
  17. Maybe. Try a 48 or 50 and see if it's better. When the motor is fully warmed, it's normal for the motor to not want to run well with the choke pulled.
  18. Just for FYI, all Vito's pistons are produced by Wiseco, so in essence, the Vito's pistons are Wiseco pistons with specs setup by Vitos.
  19. Dammit Dale, sounds like a tonafun. Hey, I was going to call you to see if you wanted to ride tomorrow for a few hours in the afternoon/evening, but got sidetracked I guess. Scott
  20. It's a two-stroke, get used to it. Mine drip as well, but it's fine.
  21. That pilot sounds alright. I don't know if this is your problem or not BUT..... I've seen a few cases where, with the Keihen PWK single, the carb won't open the slide enough to allow it to idle. What I did in these cases was, completely remove the plastic idle screw and spring. Then, cut the idle spring in half, so you have two smaller springs, then take the smaller one and reinstall it and the screw and see if you can then screw it in enough to open the slide enough. Like I said, I've had that happen several times with the single PWK. If you adjust the throttle cable slack to where it opens the slide up to idle and it idles fine, chances are that's your problem. Good luck. Scott
  22. Welcome to the HQ. First thing, this question belongs in the Banshee Repairs section not the General section. You'll probably get a lot more exposure to the right people there. You don't need anything to run Vito's pistons. Just be sure that you don't bump the compression up to a unnecessary level, or if it's too high, be sure you run the right fuel. I can't remember if the Power pistons raise the compression or if it's the Super stock ones. Other than watching your compression #'s, there isn't any issues with running Vito's pistons.
  23. Nope, none of that. Don't touch the stuff, you know, I'm an "adult" now, got to be "responsible" now.... be a good influence for the little 3 year old....
  24. Go with either Dyna FS or Duncan Racing's Vortex ignition. Those two are proven to be very good setups.
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