sredish

I use the Maxima mix bottle. I like it cause it's not as bulky as the ratio rite, and the cap seals nice and makes easier for transporting. Many times I've had it in my cupholder on the way to the gas station. Couldn't do that with a ratio rite. It's also under 4 bills.

yeah, who else will be blaring the zeppelin. Think there's enough room for me to back my truck in to use the bed tent I have?

the octane doesn't make a difference in the fuel premix. it does make a difference with detonation. I ALWAYS use 93 or 92 octane, I would NEVER use anything less. The cost is way to minimal to be skimping on the octane of the fuel. No, the use of 93 octane will not affect the heat of your engine.

Rocky Mountain ATV Type "Engine Ice" in the search field and it will come up immediately.

ford or chevy? that's about the same question. Everybody has a preference. My preference is Keihens. I just like the pwk carb.

You got to start planning a little. Seems like your spinning wheels and coming back full circle. Didn't you just sell a single carb kit? That would be the best setup for MX. A 35mm single carb setup with a midrange set of pipes is ideal for MX and woods. If you have a lot of porting, I'd step up to a 39mm. That's what I'm getting ready for. Can't wait. If I remember right, you have some Fatties, that and the single carb kit is SWEEETT! For dual carbs, the 30s are ideal in my opinion, unless your dragging or 100% dunes. 32s aren't too bad depending on the amount of porting you have. You should be alright with your stage 3.

The Razrs hook up really good; I wouldn't say they slide all that great. I personally think Holeshots slide a little better. Don't get me wrong, Holeshots hook up great also, but I think they slide a little better.

Let's see some pics of your paint jobs. I'd like to see how they turned out. I'm much too lazy to paint my plastic. Saving up for a fullbore set.

All in all, check your plugs. They will tell you if you are rich or lean. If you gained a lot of midrange then you were probably a little lean, but it sounds like the main is compensating for the needle a little. I agree with Motul, drop your main a little and raise the needle a notch and you'll love the midrange you'll get. Move it one notch down, away from the blunt end. You should at minimum be at the 3rd clip, and with pipes, probably the 4th. No matter what, always check your plugs after screwing with the main, cause if you get yourself in a lean condition, your toast. For more info on reading plugs go to the following link: Reading Spark Plugs

I'm sure there is a dyno close by. Check around the local shops and they'll tell you where one is. Best $40 you can spend.

I just thought I'd post this in case it hasn't been said yet; REMOVE THE TORS, IT IS EVIL!!

yeah, how did I miss that? change the plugs if they're still the same ones that were in it when you bought it. if so, buy 6 plugs, 2 new ones, 2 spares to go on the bike, and 2 to go in the toolbox. if the 2 in the bike go bad, throw the 2 spares in, put the 2 from the toolbox on the bike, and buy 2 new spares for the toolbox. This way, you'll always have fresh plugs. In one year, I've used two sets of plugs. The original I put in when I bought it, and 2 new ones when I changed type of plugs. The original were 8 months old and never had a problem. Chances are, the 6 you buy, you'll have for awhile, unless your doing mods and rejetting a bunch, then you might go through a box or two. Mods, what's that? Anyone heard of that for a shee? Welcome to the world of the almight Banshee.

yeah, sorry, i meant to say at optimum rpms, not idle. It won't be making shit at idle.

maybe the regulator is bad. that amount of voltage is not correct.

I posted this here due to it not being a banshee, and I hate being a "it won't start, help" guys, didn't figure I'd ever be here like this. My '01 LTF500F Suzuki Quad Runner 500 will not start. It's always been a finicky starter, and it's always seemed to be on the rich side getting it started, and I have fouled a plug or two in the last year. Alright. I have plenty of spark. The plug seems to have gas on it, it smells like gas and is wet with gas. The air filter is freshly cleaned. I went from removing the snorkle, to lid, then to air filter all together. I've tried to start it with carb cleaner, no go. What the ##()$&%&@() else do I need to do. This pisses me off so freaking bad, I'm not an idiot and I know how to work on these freaking pukes. I basically figure this is what I need: Spark Fuel Air and I have these things, so why isn't it starting?? The specs say it is a Mikuni BST 34mm carb. I'm not too familiar with Mikuni, does that sound legit, or is there actually a different part name for that style of carb. It has the flat top on it, not the threaded cap. Once I get it started, I'm going to rejet this pig, but I need to damn thing started. I'm about to take every bolt out of this thing and leave it on the garage floor in a million pieces. Later.

The VERY first thing you should do is by a Yamaha service manual for your new machine. Order it first thing in the morning. That will be a good basis for all the necessary adjustments and service work that needs to be done. Most of the questions you will ever have will be in that manual. Seriously, my manual is in the 4th drawer from the top of my toolbox, and i use it every day it seems like. Chances are the hoses and stuff are good if it doesn't have a lot of hours. Inspect your air filter after every ride and clean if it looks dirty. I change my tranny oil once a month and I don't change the coolant unless it needs it. I grease all the fittings twice or three times a month, and even more if I'm riding it hard. I oil the chain before every ride, usually. Theres lots of little things to look for. The manual will tell you everything I just said, how often, and lots more info. Great bedtime reading.

I'm getting ready to start building on a trailer solely for my atvs. I'm going to build it 7' wide x 15' long. It will fit 3 quads sideways plus a fullsize truck box in front for tools, oil, etc. No sides, there will be a set of ramps stored underneath to ride on from the side or back. The floor and front will be aluminum diamond plate. I'll be making the front of the trailer 2.5' high to block mud and gravel from beating on the atvs. I may build a cover over the top to carry coolers, and other crap. I have about 3 bills budgeted to build it and it shouldn't really be anymore than that, not including a top. Already have the truck box, and the metal only cost $120.00 Oh, and i already have the quads, thankfully. I was going to have it ready by the 19th, but I don't think so anymore.

same here. not the best most perfect fit, but close enough and the price was right. Overall, i like my dg nerfs. a bud uses steel so that he can easily weld them if they break, or heat them and bend them straight again. i told him the little mig he uses to weld steel will weld aluminum, just has to buy the wire, but he's hardheaded.

ask him if he'll port the head on my banshee for me?

yes, pipes would is a necessary first mod. They are the very base of the power on your banshee, and the stockers only limit you. While unleashing lots of power, any other mods will not be to their full potential without them. Good midrange pipes like FMF Fatties are great economical pipes. Paul Turner mids are excellent and a little more expensive. Either of those will be great woods/trail pipes that you can open up when wanted and take additional mods very well. As far as airfilter, the Toomey 2into1 air setup is pretty darn nice and works great. After that, only the money is the factor limiting what you can do. You'll have a different machine after just the pipes. The next step might be a Trinity or Graydon single carb kit. This will help pull even more power from the midrange all the way through the high rpms, further boosting the trail and woods ability. Next, maybe some light porting.

there isn't a right mixture. it all boils down to the recommendation range of the oil manufacturer and your preference. I run a 40:1 mixture, some run a 32:1 and some even a 60:1. BUT, you wouldn't want to run a 60:1 mixture with an oil designed for a 32:1 mixture. So make sure to read the oil bottle to make sure your mixture meets the manufacterer recommendations.

the dgk and dek is relating to the taper of the needle. the more taper it has, the faster it comes on the gas. the less taper, the slower. he could be right, i haven't messed with my taper too much cause it's running really good right now. Go to CarbParts.com and look at their Keihen section. They have a breakdown chart of the needles, their taper and all the other specs. I'd call them and discuss the needle tapers personally. I get farther along talking then I do typing sometimes, but that's a great starting point.

sounds pretty good to me. however, the only way to tell is by checking the plugs. sounds like a pretty good base though. Give it a go with the 320 and see where your at. oh, i used to get my stock carb jets at the stealer. he had a full supply of jets on hand.

that carb will work really good for you, especially with the DMCs. It will also be a great trail carb with your future port.

There may be a jetting issue, but if it was running great then started acting up, i'd say it's something to do with the TORS. Time and time again, we see people ask why it ran great and now like shit, won't start, won't idle at all, and ran great before. They pull the TORS crap out and there goes the problem. The TORS system has a sensor that reads where the slide is in relation to your thumb. If it malfunctions, it thinks the slides are stuck when they're not and won't allow the machine to run because it thinks the slides are stuck. It's not if they malfunction, it's when. Get rid of all that TORS crap before you ever start digging into anything else, cause you could be f*&king something else up that doesn't need to be f*&ked with. If, after you get rid of the TORS crap, you still have a problem, then it's time to start looking elsewhere. You need to eliminate the possibility of the TORS crap first.