MILO

that's cool, but where does the "prego" come into play??

i can't imagine going thru gas like some guys do. i was just out for about 3 hrs or more today and still have around 1/4 tank left. maybe i don't beat it as much as some do. does riding the dunes really suck that much more gas than trail riding?

at least 2-3 hrs of trail riding. i can usually make it thru 20-30 mile poker runs easily without tapping reserve. of course that's not constantly ripping, but we do stop at all the play spots for a while too.

ebc severe duty pads. that's all i'll buy anymore. anything else has been a waste of $$

lately, about 4-6 when cold, but fires on the 1st when warmed up. mine usually sits for at least a week at a time anymore though.

i've had the pro flow with foam filters for about a year or more now. i've been running without the lid 90% of last summer and so far this year. on the trails, in the dust, in the rain, major muddy poker runs, some high water crossings, and i've never had any trouble with it yet. you will need to check and clean it more often though. and leave the drain catch on the bottom of the box of to allow dirt/water to fall back out if it does get in there. it will run a lot better without the lid, and it will need rejetted accordingly, but it's well worth it. i actually rarely even use filter oil on it. just keep it cleaned regularly and you should be alright without the lid. if your leaving the lid on, try this. when i was tinkering with mine, i took off the snorkel, as you did, and also got a dremel and trimmed out the tunnels on the underside of the lid so that it was a straight shot to the entire filter, not just the back end of it. i also put in 12 of the 1" unifilters in the lid for added air flow. another trick is to only cut the lid off up to the rear clips to allow extra air flow, and still cover almost all of your filter. keep in mind that any airbox/filter mods will require the jetting to be adjusted.

maybe for the dunes, but you definitely need one on trails/in the woods. i'm cautious about dragging and hitting rocks and stuff, but it's still taken a beating. i'd rather trash a $70 skid over months and months of riding, than risk destroying my chain/sprocket and rotor every time i go out. i got tossed over the bars once when i had my blaster cuz the stocker got hung up on a small tree stump. i'll never go without a swing arm skid again.

you may think you would save money by mixing more lean and saving on oil, but you'll find that most oils that you would mix 40, 50:1 etc. usually cost more to begin with, so there's really no savings. i haven't had any problems with yamalube 2-r, or 2-s for my nephew's blaster. i don't see any reason to switch.

Personally I think it matters more if you overheat it alot, or beat the ever loving piss out of it on a regular basis. If you have a good air cleaner etc.... What I would do, is ride it, and if you notice a lack of power (I don't think it will sneak up on you) do a compression test. If there is a difference in what it was, or if one side is different by more than 10lbs, then pull the head, check things out. I have never been one to worry about the amount of time passed in the saddle, but rather how the bike feels when I ride it. my thoughts exactly.

thank god i didn't have to deal with the problems you all had. mine came right out when i took it apart to put on my upp chain slider. cleaned, greased it and slipped it back together. all in about 30 minutes. 1st time axle removal on the other hand!! that was a several hour ordeal. hey bud, don't mock "THE PASSION" with a totally degrading comparison with stern. i've watched him some too, but that's a little overboard. actually, that's strapping yourself to the anchor, and sinking to the bottom along with it. not cool, man. not cool.

when i ran 2-r 24:1, the oil was literally dripping out the ends of my pipes. switched to 40:1 first, but felt safer with 32:1. that's what i've been running for about 1 1/2 yrs. without problems.

if he had to pay extra on top of a prime rappy, i think he should have kept looking, by the sound of the condition of the 450. man, these things must be sweet if such trades are going on. either that, or the hype about them is just overwhelmingly brainwashing people.

i'm curious as to why the used stock 450 was available to begin with. hmmm.... are we talkin at a dealer, or a personal trade?

cuz nothing screams like a banshee even when the raptors came out and ex's and so on, i never liked the sound of them. the thumper sound on some is almost irritating. just loud and blaaahhhh. a screaming shee on the other hand... ahh, now that's music to my ears the looks are part of the reason too. i never really liked the rappy's styling. and the yfz is just a modified copy of it. too many quads are looking the same anymore. i like something different, and just about every shee you see has it's own personality. from the look, sound, even to the sweet scent left behind by some oils that are mixed. you can't get that from a thumper!! when you scream through on a shee, heads turn. when your on a thumper, you're just another thumper tryin to live up to the shee. the 450 is a sweet stock machine, but i'm not ready to give up my shee for one.

looks like i'm gonna have to wait till wed. to get anywhere with this now. missed the shop on sat. and work thru wed. morning. sucky weather. sucky work. sucky bolts. everything but the wife is sucky right now. and that really sucks!!

some guys with a lot of chrome and extras that they keep polished up don't like the mud at all. as far as i'm concerned, that's what street bikes are for, not atv's. my car and cbr aren't as clean as some shee's i've seen on here. my opinion, as long as you keep those bearings greased up really good, that won't be a problem. shee's throw an awsome roost in the mud too. go have a blast in the mud and muck, and don't worry about it. it will wash off and be just fine.

yeah, that's what i thought. the piston sticking is not the reason for not being able to bleed it. rather having air in the lines is the reason for the piston not coming out. bleed the system as much as possible, and once you've pushed enough air out, it should eventually push out. if it's seized bad enough that after bleeding, the pressure from applying the brake won't push it out, you need to pull that caliper apart, and see what's going on. may just need a good cleaning, or may be some internal damage, in which case you don't want to force it out some other way.

ok, i finally got around to changing all the bushings in the rear linkage, taking my time and being very carefull not to damage anything, and keeping those roller bearings clean and packed with grease. down to the final stages, and went to bolt the relay arm to the connector arm, and the bolt stripped!! i had my torque wrench set to what the clymer's called for, and that little sob stripped the threads right off the bolt. 22 ft/lbs. was the magic #. apparently too much for the little prick!! now i have to wait to tomorrow and head to the shop and get a new bolt (i like to keep things tip top shape, and don't want to just throw any old bolt in there, considering the bearings and all.) is this the wrong torque spec, or was it just that the bolt has had it? there was still some grease on the threads when i tightened it, surely that wouldn't cause it to strip? sorry for the long post, but i'm really pissed, and have to vent.

i just finished replacing ft brakes yesterday morning and was pissed off dealing with this exact problem. i ended up just bending the guard out of the way enough to get the caliper out, then bent it back after re-installing the caliper. just make sure it's not in contact with the rotor when you bend it back. it does look like it would be a bitch to remove it, and for riding in woods a lot like i do, i would rather have it on there.

i just tried a small spot with mothers, and it definitely works better than eagle one that is used before. i think with all this snow again, i'll have plenty of time to sit in the garage and shine up my pipes.

yep, mine do the same thing. just thought it was normal for them and how they're set up. haven't had any prob's yet, but i'm gonna check it out like blue deuce suggested.

i was gonna order some from works and they e-mailed back asking if they were standard or spherical bearings. what's the difference? i'm not quite sure what they mean.

where exactly in pa are you from? i live within 20 minutes of both new paris and blair/bedford drags? i can here the b/b drags from my house, they're just on the other side of the mtn. do you run at both?

what's with this ? lately? it's too vague of a subject. there's just too many variables in the climb conditions and what your set up is to reply sensibly. just take your shee, and try this and try that, and you'll find out. but i will say this. the shee is an awsome hill climb machine. impossible to get stuck cuz you bogged out. feathering the clutch is an art that must be mastered.

ahh yes, jealousy at it's finest.