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is that a 4mm with like a 75mm or 78mm bore??? while at camerons shop he said the twisters seem to make more broad power but the cub made more of it. that billet cnc machining is pretty cool though.

i think my rod measure out to 52 mm or just lil less but its for a cub. would have to go remeasure them. basically get it running if it wont idle very long you will need to lengthen the rod. mine are threaded ends so you take pliers and turn them a quarter turn then pick the whole rod and white thing up and turn to where the cut out is facing the back of the carb again. re start it. if it idles high just by that you went to far. its a long process but its nice once done. and will say my bike idles higher than most others cause it was hard to find just a sweet spot. basically i run it where it is rich enough to where it will idle, and it is idling higher than most othere bikes not talking 5000k but its 500-1000 more probably than others. but being rich down low seems to make the bike more responsive. power jet i have mine at 2 turns out and i know its rich but its cold out and just being safe. one thing to remember dont over tighten the jet close it will miss your count up when you open them. meaning you think both are 2 turns out but one is actually 1.5 and not pulling same amt of fuel out. i open them all the way and then turn them till i feel them starting to snug make sure i turned them both the same amt. and thats my closed spot and then reopen them but to whatever. you will notice you will have to adjust everything when its cold and when its hot. so might write some info down for future reference to help you out like the temps how many turns on the jet, length of the rod for both warm and cold riding. best of luck.

paddles are a bitch to just say you will need this or that. the sand condition changes almost ever time you go there. so lot of variables. for trails i would say 10 paddles for dragging 13 -14 paddle extreme but everyone has different options. too much paddle kills your top end but not enough you just spin. so its like find some one with some decent paddles and see if you can borrow them would be the easiest way and go from there.

what motor do you have to make 92hp?

hands down dmc 916 are best sounding pipes, ive been around a lot of pipes and they sound the best. would be a good trails pipe and hills also for you.

i still think a 10 over will be to much unless your putting nos and turbo shit on. saw some of those hybrids at the dunes swear one had like a 4 over on. 100lbs in the front end is a lot of weight. would look more towards a 6 - 8.

doesnt an r1 motor weigh like a shit load i bet you could get by with a 8/10 over if that. you will have so much weight on the front end i doubt it will want to even come up. might be a 6 over you will have to do some figuring but just remember that.

you will need some inframe drag pipes: cpi/shearers to get that kind of power. fmf wont allow it to breath as well. also besides having your porting looked over, you will need shit load more compression than 145. it will be a dog off the bottom end and better look into some race gas or 100LL with your compression. shoot for 170+ psi.

i have boughten stuff off him before and always got it. had remind him a few times but came thru with my shit. he lives in seminole ok.

firehead is a black guy?? didnt know that. learn something everyday on here.

who painted the plastic ?? can you get close pics of it?? looks really good.

maybe its not so much nutswinging more just annoying. its the jeff is a good seller threads. ok we get it he has a parts store. its like saying walmart was a great seller. both places sell stuff. i know walmart isnt the best place to compare but shit happens. if jeff or anyone other place didnt have service worth a fuck they wouldnt be in business very long. if you get lots of people getting screwed over and the word gets out then most everyone will avoid that places. jeff is a KNOWN sponser and good guy and good service. maybe its just that ive been around long enough and get it. and click on new post and its jeff sold me this, jeff hooked me up with that. nothing against jeff but the shit is annoying. ya its great pub for him but the banner on top of the page should attract most to look at his store. imo is like i get a set of tires from rockymountain atv and post hey they sold me tires at a decent price. i would pray everyone would say big fucking deal, or ya we know. and i get annoyed at other thread supporting other people or places so its not just jeffs stuff. its fine to share experience of something interesting but to just sell a part is a waste of bandwidth in my opinion. there is basically a list of builders, parts places, suppliers, etc that most everyone knows is worth a shit. and the one that are not on that list well they deserve to go broke cause they have fucked people over. maybe im just old anymore. i have nothing against jeff and his business, let him grow and expand. thats the american dream. just please no more threads about selling some part. at least be something interesting like porn or something shit who knows lol. i dont know if greg was meaning that or what but thats just my thoughts. also dont know if you really banned greg but thats b.s. he was just stating an opinion and this site is beyond full of them. cant ban everyone.

there isnt much more adjustment at the lever i dont run a lot of free play. tyler dave by moving closer to the stator side wouldnt that cause the rod to not allow enough throw to push the pressure plate off the fibers.

just went to double check the arrows line up maybe lil towards the clutch side talking lil. its a finger style direct drive one. the weights are what came with it some bolts with lock nuts on it. seems to be half throttle to pinned it rolls. what side do you line it up on the "outside" clutch side or stator. i have a complete billet hinson basket, hub, plate everything is in great shape not worn out.

seemed to start after lockup and those big springs. freeplay at lever is just enough i dont like a lot of free play if i need to tap the clutch to rev up i want it there not have to pull the clutch to get it to rev up quickly.

arrows line up perfectly.

sorry i asked a question. there is some stuff a person doesnt know. unlike you tyler i guess and fuck 10w30 makes it shift worse. so yes what causes this. i got a feeling my pressure plate isnt releasing all the way. any other thoughts.

went for a ride today. with the clutch pulled and if you rev the bike up it wants to start to roll or creep forward. what causes this. setup: 8 disk clutch system, lockup, 3 stock springs and 3 of those brutal springs people sell. atf f fluid arrows line up,

that pic you have just the cover no lockup mechanism.

nah got me some stockers fresh off topend going to be worked up by march from jim. for a duner bike.

whats your compression whats your pipes what carbs is your setup. i had a quasi duner drag port from jim and lugged it around all day. what did you tell jim how you wanted the power, he is good at setting it up for what you want. will say shawn bike first setup of domes compression was low and it didnt pull down low got some domes that were perfect to his weird measuring motor and ran great. but sounds like your not happy follow everyones advice go somewhere else. ill take those jugs off your hands if you dont want them so bad.

do you have the studs that for that head. the special pro design ones.

would start at 50-55 pilot depends on what needle you have 150-155 mains lot depends on your porting and shit. also you will need a carb sync tool. good carbs.

craigslist.org wichita ks autotrader.com trucktrader.com deals for wheels, or deals on wheels mag. not a good time to be selling a 25k item lot of people dont have shit for money to blow. best of luck.

call dennis packard up he is the dealer for them and know them like the back of his hand. look up packard racing or industries or whatever its called. he isa good guy.