BakoBanshee

I'm gonna freshen up the top end and wanted to know what is the max compression in psi that I can safely run on 91-octane pump gas at sea level? How much shaved off the stock head would achieve this max psi? What size domes would this be if I were to go the cool head route? Does a cool head help in keeping the temps down, or is it more for flexibilty in changing domes for compression for different fuels/mods? Thank!

Hey Fellas, I have been out of the Banshee game for awhile and I am wanting to freshen up my bone stock top-end. So I am thinking about boring out the jugs to 66mm(if memory serves me correctly it makes it a "true 370cc") AND ALSO getting them "Dune-Ported & Polished" by a site sponsor! Would it even be worth moving up from the stockers to 28mm for this type of top-end work? If so, I was thinking about slapping on some new 28mm PWK's at the same time to compliment the porting, but I remember reading somewhere about some shops being able to bore out the stockers to 28mm also. So, is there a difference in performance between these two carb set-ups? What are the pros and cons of each set-up? What shops specialize in boring out the stockers and where is everyone finding the best pricing on new "genuine/authentic" 28mm PWK's? Any opinions or thoughts? Thank you for any help!

Hey guys, I fired up the shee today just to mess with the air mixture screw and what I've noticed is that when I 1st fire up my shee, if I turn off the choke halfway(leave the plunger pulled out halfways) it has EXCELLENT throttle response, just like it used to! And if I turn off the choke completley while its idling, it will bog and die unless I'm blipping the throttle and revving the motor at the same time I turn off the choke completely. Is this a sign of a rich or lean condition? thanks again fellas!

Thanks for all the tips guys! I'll double check the pilots and start out at 25's and go from there and make sure the slides are facing the right way and in sync visually. If that dont work, then Ill order a sync tool from Jeff! BTW, how many turns is the range adjustment on the air/fuel screw. If I remember correctly, is it from 1 - 2.5 turns out? Thanks again fellas!

I have a '01 shee that I installed a TORS Eliminator kit and at the same time rebuilt the stock carbs since they were leaking from the overflow tubes. Ever since I put everything back together my shee has a lazy bottom end with a slight bog and just doesnt have crisp throttle response anymore. I dont know if its a result from the tors kit or from the carb rebuild kits. The midrange and top end are good and it will idle. But if its idleing and I slam the throttle WFO it will bog and die. The carb kits came with new jets and needles for stock carbs. My carbs had 260 mains for the fmf fattys and if I remember correctly, stock needles and pilots. I replaced everything but the mains. Im wondering if the pilots or needles in the rebuilt kits were different then my stockers since I didnt check them before replacing them ??? What is the stock pilot size and needles? Thanks,

Baby Gangster Junior Gangster Gangster Lil' O.G. O.G.

Hey fellas, I haven't been on here much since getting my 700R raptor. I know, I know, but hey at least it's a Yamaha lol! So, who or what shops are the places to hit up for an awesome stock cylinder pump gas Dune Port? I plan on freshening up the top-end so I might as well get some porting done if the cylinders are gonna be off. I'm on stock bore, what is the biggest over-bore I can go? What size cc would this put me at? Thanks.

+1 Just remember that the included jets and needles are for STOCK carbs, so if you are currently piped and jetted accordingly, you will reuse those needles and jets. I found this out the hard way after putting the carbs back on...

Hey fellas, when the ignition coil goes bad, will the banshee start or run at all? Or will the bike be completely dead? My banshee is bogging bad and lazy to get on the pipe, and after I switched the plug wires it made a big difference, but not like when it was running 100%. Thanks.

After installing the TORS Eliminator Kit, is it ok to remove all of the extra cables like the throttle switch and parking brake cables? Is there any other wires or cables that I can now get rid of? If I remove the parking brake cable, I'm assuming i have to install a parking brake block-off??? Thanks.

Jeff, check your PM.

Cool, I will be giving you guys a call today. I might order a F.A.S.T clutch kit also! Thanks.

Hey guys, Where is the cheapest place to pick up a GENUINE rebuild kit for the stock carbs? Thanks.

Looking to buy a used full Curtis Sparks exhaust system in good condition, standard or big-core. Thanks.

Hey bigred, I have the same TV and stand as you, except I have the 50" I wish I woulda of got the 60" but I'm still happy with my Grand Wega.

As I suggested to blackandyellow, Pull off the fuel line from the right side carb and see if there is sufficient flow. If thats not it, try unplugging the little black box above your left pipe under the gas tank and see how it runs with it unplugged.

Pull off the fuel line from the right side carb and see if there is sufficient flow. If thats not it, try unplugging the little black box above your left pipe under the gas tank and see how it runs with it unplugged.

My riding buddy just picked up a 1986 Honda 250R quad and it is leaking coolant from what looks like a small drain hole underneath the water pump housing. Is this hole a "wear indicator" similar to those found under the water pumps on cars and trucks? If so, what all needs to be replaced, i.e. impeller, shaft, seal, o-ring??? Is it easy to do? What's the average costs? Also, did the '86 have an over-flow resevoir for the coolant, because we couldn't find one? Thanks for any help guys.

I just picked up a 21 gallon vertical air compressor for $169.99 and a $17.99 impact driver from Harbor Freight and they worked well for me taking off and putting back on the flywheel and clutch basket nuts.

Well shit! First off, thanks for the help and replys. However, after putting everything back together my problem was not solved. Either I damaged the new right-side crank seal trying to install and seat it, or there is another passage route that the tranny fluid can make its way into the crank case and up into the transfers and combustion chamber. When it first fired up I thought I had fixed it because it sounded crisp and it wasn't smoking, besides normal cold start smoke. Then after idling about 15 seconds it started to bog down and then came the clouds of white stinky smoke. Drops of oil were coming out the exhaust flange and clamp. I said fuck it and told my friend to wind the fucker out up and down the street since I was pissed, but all of the burning tranny fluid wouldn't let the Blaster get on the pipe and rev out. There was a lingering smokescreen up and down the street. Any ideas fellas on how this much tranny fluid can be making its way into the combustion chamber? On a side note, I think I intalled the left side crank seal correctly because now it will idle and has better throttle response. Thanks

You said it Big Red! Today I said Fuck It and went to Harbor Freight and bought an air compressor, impact gun, and all accesories to get started. Spun those bastards right off! It was a bicth to remove the right side crank seal. Also putting both new seals evenly. I hope that I didn't fuck them up putting them in. Now the only problem is I dont now how much to tighten the flywheel nut to the right torque specs with the impact gun. I tried using my torque wrench to 53 ft./lbs. but again the flywheel spins. I will figure something out tomorrow, put side cover on, fill with oil, kick the bitch over and hopefully the "Uncle Buck" amount of white smoke, and erratic idle and throttle response will be a thing of the past!

hey thanks guys, yeah 2003 I found the same tool on motion pro's site. around $30, not too bad. Gonna check the local shops tomorrow to see if they have one in stock so I won't have to order one and wait.

I'm in the process of trying to replace the crank seals on the ol' lady's Blaster. I've got the flywheel puller tool from Vito's, but how do you keep the flywheel and clutch boss from spinning when trying to loosen the nuts holding both of these parts with a ratchet? I looked in the Clymers and it showed special "holder" tools to remove each part. But is this my only option to go to the local "stealership" and special order these tools? Thanks for any help.

I plan on having a single 3" cat-back mandrel bent exhaust put on my truck. I know the old-school 40-series Flowmaster sounds sick on the 5.3 V8. Do you guys have any other recommendations that sound as sick or even better than the Flo? I want my truck to sound like it has a "big set" , like it's owner!

Sparks X-6 Big Core!