rebelbanshee2

maier has deffinatly improved Very shiney, pre drilled holes, and fits great, but the radiator/tank cover area fit is alittle off but not much. cant beat the price and is better looking than full bores in my opinion...500+ for plastic is redicuous too

acording to the gearing calculator 98mph at 9,999rpm but i dont have enugh room to go that fast..i can only get it tapped in 5th befopre i have to get hard on the brakes, so ive been about 82 acording tot he calculator...cool! on a side note a banshee with a 99 tooth coutershaft and a 1 tooth rear at 9,999rpm could go 116,101mph which is like mach 150

seriously just put some silocone on there...mine leaked alittle with with a gasket..when i started just using sealer, no problems at all

have you checked the parking brake kill switch??? its sounds EXACTLY like the parking btrake kill switch acting up

i got lines for my 89 from denton racing give them a try

F1 is sweet...way better than redneck circle racing

1)have you done a leakdown test??? you should have done one the first time your engine went and you may have solved the problem then. 2)Have you done a plug check when you rejetted? 3)And you best be running race gas with those 18cc domes!!! 4)Did you clean out the case after that psiton came apart??? If not there could be chunks it there casuing problems

I had a bog right before the powerband on mine at first, I went down 2 sizes on the pilot and it cleaned it right up. Its really snappy now. However I am still running 28mm mikunis But richness on the pilot could very well be your problem

...Or maybe he'll leave the wrench on the end of the spindle on the top of the mill after changing something...Fires it up, and WHAMO! wrench smacks the motor...another classic

youre fine. as long as it wasnt dot5 you are good

Im voting for leaving the wrench in the chuck on the lathe. Thats a classic!

Now we only raced the 1/8th, I know he would kill me in the 1/4. I am not just piped and jetted. I have a new top end, .80 over, trued and welded crank, PWK 28mm -Slide carbs, Uni Clamp on filters, Noss Head w/20cc domes, 112 gas, I have a mild port job, More of a polishing, made the intakes smooth as glass. Now I have some other little mods such as billet impeller, timing advance plate, and some other little things. I will be at the track tomorrow night, and will post some time slips. My clutch is slipping a little so I will get slip for tomorrow, and I will get some new ones for next week when I get my clutch... raise that compression and unpolish those intakes

i wrecked last week and bent my frame...now im going nuts waiting for my frame. I have the entire tear down planned in intricate detail. I just can wait to get everything on a square frame and hope no spinldes show up bent. it doesnt help that my quad has to be stored 50 miles away and its a trip to do any work

before you do anything drastic try this...this has worked for me every time and doesnt damage the screws at all

I have the EBC kevlar 8 plater clutch from rocky mountain. It has worked excellent for me. its on its 2nd year of serous abuse and still looks great

and as mentioned every dyno is different. That same 72 hp bike could be 80 on another

sweet banshee nyuk, taint a scratch on it! hows it run?

i run amsoil 2000 at 50:1....you are going to getso make different answers for this question because everyone likes a certain oil for different reasons. Id say go out and get a good oil for hi perf engines at your dealer (klotz, amsoil, yamalube, maxima...etc) and mix it at what is reccomended and stick to it. I dont think there are any truely crappy oils, expecially for a stock engine

Ive tried ATF and golden spectro 85w and have settled on.....tractor hydraulic transmision oil....shifts slicker than ATF and lasts twice as long costs 8 bucks for 2 gallons too. Holyman got me on this

i too have been having minor troubles...only from 3rd to 4th every so often. when i took my clutch abart due to gear explosion i noticed mine too was loose. hopefully this was the fix

lead raises the octane rating of fule, thats why most race gas is leaded. If you are running high compression you will likely need a leaded gas.

3500 haha theyre 3000 new! hahahahaha

sounds like passion racings 12 port setup...whcih is sweet

from what ive heard PCing jugs isnt a good idea because the 400+ degree heat can cause the sleave and cylender to get alittle out of whack and distorted. I think i read that reboring them to made sure its round is reccomended.

yeah you either have to take spindle off, or undo the whole arm and spin in, what evers easier. I really like the JTs (i think) and the albas way of adjustment. The balljoint isnt threaded into the arm theres a nut on each side loosen on and tighten the other,