thebloker

I'll definatly be out there fri - sun. Actually, the lady and I just made a road trip to New Mexico and spent 300 bucks on fireworks; that combined with my friends we'll have quite a bit saved up for Thanksgiving. If everything goes as planned I should have a bike for the lady and she will be coming out too.

I think most of that will buff right out

my frienbd is going to go to philmont here in a couple of days, he is mainly using it as his detox though. two weeks and no booze, it will give him time to dry out from all the trips to vegas and mexico; kind fo a forced rehab if you look at it that way. My alternative, college, as long as you pick a halfway decent major that requires some studying, you will actually find it hard to find time to drink.

I also had mine done by Dan over at patriot racing. The finish of the port work was amazing, but what really set him apart from others was the customer service. He is was crazy busy at the time, and probably still is, but took the time to answer all of my emails, kept his word about when things were going to be finished, and even went the extra mile to overnight my package at no extra cost when it came down to crunch time. Even now when I have questions about jetting and whatnot, he still responds lighting quick and helps me out as much as humanly possible where there is no real obligation to do so. I don't think that there is one person who has one bad thing to say about either his work or customer service. Worth every penny and probably then some.

I have the same carbs and the same problem. However, I know that in my case it is because the fuel line from the tee to the carbs is too big. I had zip-tied the fuel lines to the carb itself and that worked for a little while. But sooner or later the fuel line loosens up and fuel leaks out of the overflow line. There is still some fuel that leaks out of the line to the carbs, but it's nowhere near the volume of fuel comming out of the overflow. If anybody has a decent solution to this problem, i would be open to suggestions, later, thebloker

Thats kind of strange. I have both the stock boots and the 28 pwk's and they just slid right on. Sure it was a little bit tighter than the stock carbs, but it didn't seem to be that big of a deal. I also checked around before I bought those carbs to make sure that they would fit the stock boots, and from everything that I could gather, you didn't have to buy new boots until you went up to 30's. The K&N's were a whole different matter though. Quite obvious that they wouldn't fit on the carbs. God I love all of the unexpected expenses that like to pop up when adding a couple of small things to your bike.

I don't care if you have to go see Celine Dion or not, it is basically impossible to not have fun in Vegas. I have gone there more times than I can count, lost more money than I care to remember, stayed out clubbing for almost 24 hours, gotten sick many a times, and even practically raped by another man (on a side note, don't go to Vegas when Madonna is in concert and wonder where are all the women at the afterhours clubs), and the only thing that I can think of on that palne back home is 'God damn, I can't wait to go back.'

It is not impossible to do in the US. Actually in Arizona, it is quite easy. High/low beams, a horn, rear view mirror, turn signals (I think), brake lights, and register it in any but 2 of the countys here because they require an emmissions test. However, if you do this you would be a complete jackass. Just because you have a street legal Banshee does not mean that you are going to be able to ride it on the road. If you think for one second that the cops are not going to harrass the shit out of you, you have got another thing comming. Every cop that saw you would pull you over, write you as many tickets as possible, and now you have to go to court. Then you have to show the judge that the cop was in the wrong which takes a huge ammount of tie and money. Now get used to this happening on a regual basis. Even though something can be done in a perfectally legal manner, that does not mean that the cops aren't going to make it the biggest pain in the ass, and not even worth you time.

We took one of those, called the "party Pete" I believe, and roped it up to one of those 35 foot tall Paul Bunyan (sp?) statues you see all over the US. Even the cops thought it was funny, except for the fact that they threatend to have us listed as class 6 sex offenders for the rest of our lives. Meeting the new neghibors would have been interesting, I would have had to bring pictures to show why I was going door to door. That, and the fact that their kid looked hot in diapers too

That is a really shitty part of town. Frankly, I am shocked that anybody living on that side of town would have enough money to buy a quad.

I just got back from Glamis, and I was having a problem similar to yours. It would only happen when it was hot, and it was only on one side of the engine. Well, actually it has always had a problem on that side of the engine; but this time it was much worse. I could kind of make it up China Wall once it was cold, but once it was hot, forget about it. What had happened was I have been missing on of my lower pipe springs on the left hand side of my engine. I took the pipe off right before the trip which ended up pinching the o-ring. This made the problem 5 times as bad. However, it also made finding the problem 5 times as easy, as there was black crap oozing out all over the pipe. I say keep looking for air leaks, or whatnot, as this problem sounds alot like the one that I was having.

Hmmmmmm, sounds similar to what I went through. This was my first trip out to the dunes with a GPS, and all I can say is WOW! I never once got lost, never had to worry which direction I was going, and I was able to find every major hill, the bars, and all of the different campsites without even a second thought about to if I was going to get lost or not. Every ride, every time; that GPS made all of the difference in the world. GET THE HANDELBAR MOUNT, it really makes the GPS a tool, rather than a get out of jail free card. When you are not sure wether or not you are going in the right direction, it makes all the difference in the world if you can just take a quick glance down at you handlebars, or if you have to stop and go search through you bag trying to find the damn thing. P.S. The GPS I have the the more expensive of the ETREX model line, not sure which one it is; I guess Santa was really worried about me getting lost in the dunes again and not being able to find my way home. However, I don't care how much it cost, it was worth every red cent in my opinion.

Sweet, I'll be out there wed thru sunday, like I said. I'll most likley be in the wash 4 area as well. Look, for you guys out there, Bloker

I had the exact same problem, go to the hardware store and buy some grade 8 bolts. It cost me about 2 bucks and has saved me the frustration of constantly breaking the bolts off in the clutch boss. Worse comes to worst, the clutch boss is only about 20 bucks. Trust me on the grade 8 bolts, worth every penny. By the way, are you going to to be out at Glamis for New Years? I am going to be out there wed through sunday. Shoot me a message if you want to go have a beer over at Bordaminville, I've got a GPS now so no more driving for 1 1/2 hours to end up at comp hill again. Later Bloker [email protected]

I had the same experience that you are in the process of. I had to take my case to a machine shope to get it out. Putting it in was just as bad. I tried freezing the bearing with dry ice and heating the case, but that didn't work either. Well, back to the machine shop it went.

if you want the whole pole to be lit up, I know geckoglowhips.com sells them. They are a bit on the expensive side though, and the shipping is going to kill you. However, if you can find one of those in town, that is your best bet. I bought their steel whip, with the light on the top, for less than the price they want before shipping. One nice thing about their steel whips, is they are damn near indestructible, I'm not exactally sure how you would go about breaking one of their steel whips.

When I put on my new carbs, I had to buy new fuel line. The fuel line fit the T perfectly, however, it did not fit the new carbs as well. Because there wasn't a perfect seal, the carbs decided to pee until I zip tied the fuel lines on. Once they were on there tight, the fuel stopped flowing. Might be something that you may want to look into as well.

I looked around for a while and the lowest price that I found was from pro-flo.com. $120 a piece, brand new; but that is without the cable. I am sure that they could sell you the cable for only a couple of bucks more. You are going to love how easy it is to tune these things, you don't even have to take off the bowl to change the jets. There is a nut at the bottom that you un-do, and that opens right up to the main jet. The needle is just as easy to get at as well; 2 screws and off comes the top, the needle is right there.

Thanks for the pick Meat. I had already checked out the picture on your site when I was starting to second guess myself, and that was the picture that did it for me. However, since the crank in that picture was not in the case, I was not sure that the key was sitting the right way. But now that I think about it, that would not matter anyway; the key will always be in the same orientation with respect to the crank regardless of wether or not the crank is in or outside of the engine. I believe that I did a little too much thinking on my part, maybe I should just get my ass out to the garage and actually fix the damn thing. Thanks again for all of your help guys, thebloker

thanks guys, I am pretty sure that I did put it in backwards. Looks like the work on the quad is never done.

I was sitting in class the other day thinking about my +4 degree key, and I think that I put it in backwards. Does anybody remember which way the key offset is supposed to face. Assuming the key is parallel to the ground, which way does the offset face, is it towards the front of the bike or towards the rear. Once again guys, your help is always apprecieated. thebloker

I think that what is perhaps the most disturbing thing about this whole thread; is the fact that there are people out there that have unrestricted access to an entire arsenal of weapons. And yet have posted things such as "I dident mean I wana bend my fram b/c I dont. But if it came down to me or the frame which it proally wont I want the frame to go." .........."Can I use banshee rideing gear for an MX bike?"........and " Anyway I weigh quite alot. If I hit the bumps 2nd gear sitting and 3rd gear standing slightly up with knees bent will this hurt my frame/ suspension/ over all shee? I seen some people hammer dents out of there rims. I did not get any dents yet." Frankly I am shocked that you even have figure out how to turn the computer on, let alone navigate the keyboard. This is the exact reason I only post on this message board from time to time; because it is clogged up with worthless crap, and I don't want to sound like a complete jackass asking intutitive questions. From my observations, ninja, you are either 6 years old, mentally retarted, grew up underneat high tension wires, or you umbelical cord was wrapped around your head at birth. There has to be some explanation as to what the hell is exactaly going through your head when you press the ADD REPLY button, and I would be enthralled to hear it.

I am still not exactally sure where it goes. If you go to http://www.poly-pros.com/yamaha.asp you can see that there are two rollers, one for the top and one for the bottom. There is also a chain guide that goes on the bottom part of the chain. Are you saying that the slider replaces the top roller near the crankcase, the one you have to remove the swingarm to replace. I have even tried to look for it on the o.e.m. parts locator, and haven't been able to locate it. Unless it is the lower swingarm bolt that it attaches to. Once again, I am not sure, partially because I am at school, and the banshee is at home.

After this last trip to Glamis, my bottom chain roller fell off. While shopping for new rollers, I noticed that there is also supposed to be a slider on there as well. I know where the two chain rollers and the chain guide go, but I can't quite seem to figure out where the slider goes. When I bought my bike from the previous owner, it was apparently not on there, and I don't really feel like going down to the dealership to check it out. The chain has always been within tight, and never given any indication that it has come close to contacting any metal parts, so I am guessing that the slider is not an detrimental piece of equipment. If this matters at all, I have an aftermarket swingarm skidplate. Thanks for your help, [email protected]

1) First off, pick which port job you want to go with for 2 reasons. First, Once you port something, thats it. You can change it a little bit here and there, but it isn't always a given that you can go from a stage one, to a stage two, and then finally a stage three. Second, when you start to add up the price of doing a stage one, including all of the gaskets, shipping, wait time, new carbs, tuning and labor put into the job; it would be much cheaper to get it done right the first time. 2) It is almost impossible to re-port a set of cylinders for a +4mm crank that have already been ported. Save up the extra couple hundred bucks and get the crank at the same time. 3) Dan over at Patriot racing did an awsome job on my cylinders! I couldn't tell you by looking at a set of cylinders that have a good job and ones that have an awsome job done to them which one was better; but I can tell you that they look damn pretty when I got them back. You could tell that it took some time so grind those things out. However, just as important as the port work are the people who stand behind it. Dan did an incredible job at responding to all of my questions, notified me before any unexpected changes came along, and he even went out of his way to cover the extra cost of having my package overnighted to me so I could make it to Glamis for Thanksgiving. As far as the customer service is concerned, Dan at Patroit racing is second to none. 4) All I can say about this one is good luck. The kind of port job I would expect done for that price would consist of downing a 12 pack of brew, firing up the air chisel, and smooting it out with a metal file. I think in the end, as long as you choose somebody that has a good reputation for their services, you are going to get what you pay for. You can't go worng with Patriot Racing as far as I am concerned. By the way, I got the Duner port work, trued and welded the crank, replaced one of the bearings, the other bearing was replaced with a TZ bearing, bored, honed, and chamfered the cylinders and a set of Wiesco Pro Lites for somewhere around $850 bucks. Plus you have to figure all of the other things like new carbs, new filters, larger paddles, gaskets, cables, and all of the other things that like to pop up when you didn't expect them. I think in the end, it came out to about 1300 bucks or so. And it was worth every penny!