thebloker

anybody else going/ leaving for Glamis? Less than 12 hours to go! WOuld like to see some of the forum members out there.

Well disregard that last post, I got the damn thing running. All it took was me running up and down the street with it about 10 times before it sounded like it was in the process of being able to start. After kicking it over about 20 more times, it actually started. It starts every kick now; whats left is the actual jetting aspects of it to be fine tuned. At least I have something to look forward to on Thanksgiving. See you all in Glamis, Bloker

I just finished putting my motor back together from Patriot Racing, and now it wont start. The bike is getting fuel, it has compression, it is getting a spark; it just won't start. I put new 28 pwk carbs on there, so I went with Dans reccomended ballpark jetting, but it is still a no go. I have a Vitos +4 timing advance, even if I put that key in backwards, it should still run shouldn't it? I am at 2200 ft, it is 66 degrees, Pro Circuit pipes, Duner Port Job, +4 timing and 28pwk carbs. Any help would be really apprecieated, seeing as I am supposed to be leaving for Glamis on Friday. If I can't get this bastard started, would there be any shops out in Glamis that would be open on Friday that could help me out. Thanks for all you help guys, thebloker

sweet, thanks guys. I did some searching on the net and found that the average reccomended torque is 18-21 ft-lbs. I am really in a bind here to get this bike finished, broken in, and then still being able to make it out to Glamis, by myself, for Thanksgiving. I got most of it back together, but throwing in the factor that I have a couple of tests right before break, this is a real bitch. Oh, and one other thing which I am sure that you already know, Dan at Patriot Racing is the man! Given the ammount of horror stories I have read, and been through, dealing with ATV parts, Dan went far and beyond my expectations of what an engine builder should be. I am sure that I will only be more impressed once I am able to actually fire this bastard up. Thanks for the help guys, Bloker [email protected]

I just got my cylinders back from Dan over at Patriot and all of the studs have been removed. Does anybody know the torque ratings that the studs should be set at? The Clymer manual doesn't say either. I am gonna take a look at the factory service manual, but I am not sure if it will be in there either. You help is apprecieated either way!

Thats what I thought as well. The only experience I have had with driving in soft sand was when I go down to Mexico. I used to have a Blazer that had no problem in the sand, but I know I pulled a bunch of 2wd trucks out that were stuck in the really soft stuff. Half the fun is watching people destroy their vehicles and becomming hopelesly stuck on the beach. People even drive their Civics down on the beach with no way to get out. I speak from experience when I say that you should not try to tow a Civic out of the sand by wrapping a tow rope around the bumper, not only does it rip the bumper off, it takes out the brake lines as well; plus it's damn funy to watch. Anyway I'll look forward to seeing you guys, along with the other 199,990 people there as well. With that many people there I think it would be kind of pointless to even try to find someone, oh well I'm gonna have fun anyway!

I am headed out to Glamis for Thanksgiving and as luck would have it, my friend who was going to drive out there backed out. This left me in the position of having to rent a truck, but it was a 2wd full size Ram. Seeing as I have nere been in the sand without 4wd, or to Glamis for that matter, what do you think my chances are for getting stuck trying to find a camping spot. I know that people drive their 35 ft motorhomes out there, but seeing as I am not going to be arriving until the day after Thanksgiving, I am assuming that almost all of the good spots will be taken. Any suggestions on where to park this rental truck at for this late arrival? p.s. I have no problem destroying this vehicle in order to insure I get to a good spot that has some hard pack. I'm sure that I could shoot a couple of cold ones your way once I get out there

If you had alot of motor work done, do you know if they ground down the shift star? I ground mine down but decided I don't have the proper equipment to do the backcut for the neutral, so I didn't do it. Now whenever the motor is running, I basically have no neutral, but I can get it every time once the motor is stopped. I never really used neutral once it's running, so it was never really an issue for me.

Just wanted to pass along that my 28pwk carbs were promptly delivered for the price of $119.00 each from Pro-Flo. Quite a large amount of savings over alot of other sites selling the 28's if you ask me.

thanks for the help, but I unless I can get away with out messing anything up, I think I may just leave the thing in there. I have split my cases and I was in the process of replacing all of the seals, until I ran into this situation. Normally, I would have just torn the hell out of the impeller; but I don't have enough time to get a new one and install it before Thanksgiving. The old seal didn't leak, but at least I have something to look forward to destroying when I finally buy a new one.

How do you guys get the water pump drive gear off of the the impeller? Mine is stuck on and the Clymer says that it can just slide right off. Seeing as they are both made of plastic/nylon, heating them up with a torch is out of the question. Any help is apprecieated, thanks thebloker

Dremel, huh? Sounds like a good idea, I can't believe I didn't think of that earlier, thanks! Between school winding down and work, I haven't been able to devote as much time to the quad as I would normally like to. Thanks for your help, thebloker

I have my cases taken apart, and while I was cleaning them up I noticed that there was a bunch of grit in one of the roller bearings in the top of the case. It is the bearing on the top part of the case where the clutch cable connects and actually goes inside of the motor. In attempting to remove it, I managed to rip out the inner part of the bearing and remove all of the needles. The part that is stuck is the outer part of the bearing, as it is flush with the case. I don't want to try to bend this part out as I might nick the case in the process. Anybody have any suggestions? thanks, thebloker