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maybe I used the wrong term. I said guys are saying they are shit. I am sorry. What I should have said is. I have been Searching and reading every post about billet baskets. Everyone is raving about the Mattoon. Redline. And chariot basket in no particular order. Sheerider11 I think was saying the brass bushing in the Hinson baskets are soft and garbage. Based on the 5 or so post and 20-30 comments within those posts. Cost us Canadians 400$ to get a Hinson/Barnett basket from a big box store. I just ordered a chariot basket 240$CAnadian with priority shipping 56$ Canadain. And the total was 306$ or something like that. So. In my eyes I’m supporting a site sponsor. And saving myself 100$ Compared to Hinson for a superior product based on user reviews. Also. I just got refunded 10$US for shipping jerry said so thank you Chariot. The kids will be happy Dad has his bike running to go for a ride since there isn’t anything else to do with this covid shit going one

God damn it, this 10 mil and starting over is me to a tee. Fucking shit, lessons learned I guess Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

its funny everyone hates on fmfs just bc they aren't shearers, they still ride like a nice pipe in the trails. Also last I saw when I saw at driveline lane showed me a graph of a comparison between an fmf and slp pipes on their 392 stock stroke pump gasser. Fmfs came on just as strong as the slps up the face, but obviously slps peaked out at about 7 to 8 hp more iirc. Still not an awful choice for a play bike if you already have em and wanna save 600 bucks.

This is just a simple walk-through. This is NOT a substitution for a clymer manual! This is to be used in conjunction with your clymer manual. If you are unsure of any of this or don't have the tools, send your engine to a professional builder to have the work done. I am not a professional builder, but I am happy to help anyone I can. Any time you encounter a locking washer, or a part that you bend to lock a nut in place, use NEW ones whenever possible. Here's an outline of this build... Stock stroke, Herr Jugs ported stock cylinders, Lightened flywheel, Billet Basket, Pancake Bearing, Shift Star Mod, Billet Water Impeller, Cool Head, Adjustable Timing Plate, Steel Bushing on idler gear, Cases port-matched to cylinders, Wiseco piston kit, Billet Dipstick, and FMF gold-series pipes. Start with a clean work-space and clean materials. Insert the shift drum into the bottom case half. Slide the front fork rod through the lower case half. Once the fork rod is through the case, align the first shift fork with the rod and shift drum and slide the rod through the fork. Once the shift rod is through the shift fork, install the C-clip on the end of the rod. Here you can see the shift fork rod sitting flush with the cases. Repeating the process with the rear shift fork rod. Here you can see the shift drum, shift fork rods, and shift forks all installed.

Next, install the shift drum keeper. Install the neutral switch cover on the opposite side of the shift drum. I took this pic for reference, but waited to install this part until after I had the cases together since I am using a chain guard that bolts through the neutral switch cover. Install the alignment dowel for the shift star. Install the shift star onto the end of the drum. Install and tighten the bolt down that holds the shift star in place.