Sorry, I can only speak for our own impeller product, but we tested several competitor pumps and the proof was in the testing. Our pump just out performs. But I am not here to toot our business horn, just saying we did things DIFFERENT for a reason! We might have a small idea how to design a water pump.
Now, relate this back to what I said earlier. flow rate vs pressure. If you take two pumps that move 10gpm at 0ft of head, the only other factor to determine which is best is the power used to run that pump. However, lets say you take those two pumps and restrict them so they are now pushing 10ft of head pressure. One pump drops to 5gpm, the other drops to 8gpm, who do you think is winning that one?
Do you possibly see where "high flow" comes in? You might look at the 8gpm and say, OH, it flows more, its better. BUT, the reason is the pump is MORE EFFICIENT, has less slip, less heat generation, and can continue to move more fluid at high head pressures. If our pump can maintain higher pressures, it automatically pumps more fluid, you get more turbulent flow, and more cooling!! BUT, again, there are a LOT of variables in the cooling system. You grab our pumps and then throw in an 80% mix of Ethylene Glycol and you will still have problems.
How does this relate back to your engine??? Your engine has restriction in the cooling system PLUS we want HIGHER PRESSSURE in the coolant system as this raises the boiling point of the fluid which reduces flash boiling in the cylinders. Our pump is designed to reduce the nasty losses you see in the OEM pump and other aftermarkets. Some really feel moving water is moving water. I would say go talk to NASCAR engineers about that. You want to pump just enough fluid and at high enough pressure, and you want to use the least amount of power to do it!
On short, yes, a properly designed impeller will help you cool better, and yes, a bigger radiator will CERTAINLY help cool better. BUT, what royally pisses me off is how radiators are marketed as just "bigger".... I should quantify my statement that a "higher energy capacity" radiator will help. You want to know how many fins per inch, how thick, etc, etc.
Just more TMI, a radiator's ability to "cool" is really its ability to dissipate heat. Heat is energy. Heat moves from high temp to low temp using variables such as differential temp or dT, and thermal conduction properties. As the air temp goes up, your radiator LOSES how many BTUs it can dissipate. You can either boost the air through it, lower the demand on it, or lower the water temp in it. Example, water temp is running about 200F, air temp is 70F. dT=130F. Riding on a hot day in the sand water is still trying to run about 200F, air is now 110F, dT drops to 90F. That is a big problem when you run the math! You just lost 30% of your cooling capacity!
I will stop here for now.