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ATV_hub last won the day on January 17

ATV_hub had the most liked content!

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About ATV_hub

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    HQ Noob
  • Birthday October 1

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    Waterford, Ireland
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    IG: ATV_hub_offical

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    Red 2001 banshee: Stock cylinder mx ported, keihin pwk 28mm carburetors, uni clamp on pods with outerwears, chariot billet intake, v force 4 reeds, pro circuit platinum pipes. Mcdaddy racing promod transmission with modded shift drum billet shift star, bearing detent and pancake bearing. Chariot ultra impeller water pump kit. Race cut harness, dynatek cdi and coil, lightened flywheel. Alba long travel a arms, fox float evol rc2 shocks. Alba +2 anti vibe stem, streamline steering damper, protaper fat bars. -2 round house swingarm, fox podium rc2 rear shock, tusk axle. Yfz 450 front calipers, Yfz450r front master cylinder, Racetech titanium rear brembo brake kit with carbon fiber brake stay, braided lines all round. Xfr bumper and rear skid plate, modified alba pro peg nerf bars.

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  1. Tm designworks slide, guide and rollers, Drw case saver, tried and tested. Best on the market imo
  2. This thread is over a decade old Vf 3’s aren’t even made anymore.
  3. To me it sounds like a shock length issue
  4. I’m no help with jetting stockers but, are the bowls on the right carbs? are the slides the right way around? Is the choke balance tube on right?
  5. Ok cool I get you, my stock carbs are long gone so I’m no help to you on jetting stockers, but don’t go changing jets and needles all at once, do one at a time and don’t drop a bunch of sizes at once. It might take a few tries but you’ll get there. You don’t have to buy new boots, the stock boots have projections kinda like suffers on them, you just have to cut those off flush and it will all bolt up.
  6. If your running the stock intake boots they will need to be modified to run v force reeds, not a big deal tho. Also something to keep in mind, the jets included in those kits may not be the same as what’s in your carbs, if they are not the same do not use them
  7. Looks like some blow by in the last pic? Or a shadow? I would rebuild it. If they are cast pistons, although they are fine and you can run a tighter wall clearance on them, they don’t like to go past service intervals or put up with as much abuse as forged pistons, last thing you want is a cracked skirt and wrecked motor. If you don’t know what’s in it or how many hours it has done I would rebuild the top end and inspect everything else. At least then you know what you have and can have confidence in your machine. While it’s open clean up that exhaust port, If you want to elimin
  8. Most oem baskets will develop some play, won’t cause shifting issues but best to repair anyway. My basket has about 5mm of play and it isn’t causing issues, but I have a rebuild kit on the shelf waiting to go in. Mis-alignment will still allow shifting in one direction but make shifting in the opposite direction difficult but usually still possible. You need to look deeper. Split the cases and inspect imo.
  9. The reason there are different sizes is to prevent the chain from bunching up if it breaks. If there is enough room for the chain to fold back on itself it could potentially get caught up. I would say it is most effective to follow dwrs recommendations but surely a case saver is better than no case saver. I think you would be extremely unlucky if it caused any issues. I was going to buy the big sprocket just so I would have a bigger choice of gearing but decided against it as I don’t think I’ll ever need more than a 15t front sprocket
  10. The best is DRW, it’s a serious bit of kit completely fills the empty space around the sprocket, cheap insurance and piece of mind, a broken chain can cause complete havoc and ruin your day
  11. I was going to relocate the switch to the stem loop and access the switches through the vents in the tank cover but decided to just delete the lights. It might fit in there, I didn’t really try it, just an idea
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