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Everything posted by monster

  1. Yamaha or get a used one. Swap one from a friend to diagnose.
  2. Sorry I didn’t explain why the coil is where I’d start . Had my sons banshee runs great until high rpm sputters missing poping like bad jetting. After half a day of tinkering. Swap good coil from other banshee runs great. The coil was breaking down under high rpm and load. It’s just 2 10mm bolts and a plug. I have a 10 mil serval and I’m running all OEM ignition. Have a Merry Christmas
  3. These toe clips will work with your break arm! I've been cutting the stock ones off and installing these. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. IMS Rapper 660 pegs bolted on with just a spacer on right side and had to cut shifter pivot off left side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Get the fireball +2 arms that are for yfz450 shocks! Then later if you don't like the yfz450 shocks you can sell them for same price as you got the used shocks for and get aftermarket shocks that will fit. This way you have good arms. I have yfz shocks and like them. http://www.fireball-racing.com/arms.htm
  6. The CR pipe from newer bikes fits with no mods had to lengthen muffler tube 4" with a small bend. The LT frame is skinny like CR frame. I don't kick start it when cold any more just get the strap out and pull start it so I don't heart my self! Makes for a bad weekend when you tear calf muscle before bike is started. From what I remember swap was not that bad. I bilt the bike 20 years ago just got it back from friend that never rode it much.
  7. I've got a LT250R with a CR500 in it! The engine is solid mounted so the vibration sucks!!! It's the worst on hard pack dirt roads when at high rpm. I've found at the dunes having a load on the engine seems help with the vibration a lot! Power is good pulls hard like 4 stroke just wont rev out on top. It needs drag port and a CPI pipe and it may hang with my sons 4 mill dune port banshee! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Are you happy with the power? How bad is the vibrations?
  9. To what extent are you referring to? How do you no if it's loose other then the small amount of play in hub splines. If it comes loose you have play in them. I loctite splines on assembly so I don't have this problem ever.
  10. I've had problem with play in the hub to axle splines before. Its impossible to keep locknut tight because of the twisting force on hub from acceleration and deceleration when riding its just more twisting force then the locknut tension can stop. Causing wear and or clearance between locknut and hub or just loosens locknut up. My fix is clean splines with brake clean or what ever you have to get rid of the grease on the splines then I put loctite on splines to fill in play! Caution may need heat gun to disassemble!!!
  11. Best place is in upper hose from head! Coolant flows from lower radiator into water pump to cylinders then out of the hot head to top of radiator cools in radiator back to pump!
  12. May help some one! Rust-Oleum Hammered Black and Silver are great. http://www.walmart.com/ip/36759347?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228025103648&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=42974280512&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=81466261832&veh=sem This is the best rattle can paint I've found sticks great can touch up easy when needed. Silver almost matches stock silver look. If you keep coats light won't get the texture to bad. My bike is painted with it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/gallery/image/7661-utah-little-sahara-sand-dunes/
  13. I've had T3 and not fan at all! Way to much work staying on the pipe for my dune ridding. Swapped for some FMF fatties they're great all around pipe and still rev out. I have some SLP pipes they pull hard down low just don't rev out on top! Haven't had PC or DMC so unable to comment on them. You can get T5 and FMF used for cheep. I like getting used pipes and trying them out if I don't like them I can sell for same price or more so I'm out nothing!
  14. Thanks for the pipe info! This is a bike I built 20 years ago and just got it back! 16 years and It's back in the stables! Has lots of torque was looking to get some more top end for dune riding! http://s387.photobucket.com/user/monstersbaecamhundaf/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3 http://s387.photobucket.com/user/monstersbaecamhundaf/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
  15. I've had my eye on the CR500 CPI pipe for a couple weeks! How is the power band and over rev compared to Pro Circuit type pipe? Does it come with silencer?
  16. Live in UT! I run 10s on all my bikes sand is soft most of the time and they work great!
  17. Mid rang is controlled by the needle. On my 10 mil serval had to get new needles to lean it out in the mid. Carbs ran great with my 4 mil been playing with the jetting for weeks trying to get it perfect on my serval here's a link that helped me. http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/jetting.htm
  18. I recommend sticking with the T5 good all around power for the engine you have and trail riding. I'd take T5 FMF all day long over CPI on the trail even dunes. I fill the CPI and Shearer are great if you have drag port on stock parts or larger displacement. So you still have bottom end power. I'm old so I don't like all the work staying in the power band!!!!
  19. This one looks good http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=28342716&cat=145&lpid=&search=Banshee&ad_cid=8 lots of good parts for the price.
  20. If the crack is in the trans housing from chain whack I've repaired the leak with Toyota FIPG black. Just clean crack and case with brake clean to get all the oil out and off the crack. Then pack the crack from the inside with FIPG with your finger it will come out to the outside of case. Then I smooth a 1/4" thick cover of FIPG over the top of the crack inside the trans. Clean outside off so looks good it will never leak again as long as you don't chain whack it again.
  21. On my dune bikes I like to keep the swing arm as short as possible for traction. I like to set up my bike so it has just enough swing arm to keep the front down on the hole-shot launch by adjusting my body weight then when on the hill the front tires are just skimming the sand with me back on the seat to keep them from dragging in the sand. Most +6 or more swing arm banshees and or other bikes I race at the dunes don't have there bikes set up (or the HP) for the swing arm length. So when they launch the rear tires are just spinning and the front tires have so much pressure from the long swing arm that they are digging in to the sand from take off to the end of the hill slowing the bike down. I love to racing these bikes I can hand them there buts from start to the end on my short dune bike. 4" or less and the stock shock will be happier. I no it is to late! May help some one!!!!
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