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monster

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Everything posted by monster

  1. Found busted reed will the engine just eat it or do I need to tear it down? http://s387.photobucket.com/user/monstersbaecamhundaf/media/Banshee/image.jpg.html
  2. Yes! Smallest part after flange where the expansion chamber starts!
  3. I ride sand and run the frame skid! I like how it lets me slide over the sharp dunes instead of dragging on my frame.
  4. I have some SLP pipes that have a larger and longer chamber then my FMF fatties. There like shears kinda and after reading CAMATV post I got thinking what head pipe size they have so I measured the out side diameter after the flange it was 1 5/8" and the FMF are 1 1/2" just wondering what size the head pipes on the CPI and shear small bores are? http://www.startinglineproducts.com/image.cfm?type=detail&imgID=1901
  5. I think if it was me I'd put some 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and test the compression agin. May have just dried out over the 2 years. If you get good compression get it running the rings will probably free up from the compression, heat, new oil and gas. Retest compressions and do a leak down test to make sure the seal and gaskets are good.
  6. They sell those pumps at most peddle bike shops. Just make sure it works with your air fitting on the shocks.
  7. This is Pinned..... What Is Jetting - A Great How to Article.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23546#entry1209927
  8. Is the axle blaster width? My be a banshee axle stuck in blaster housing for a hydraulic rear brake conversion.
  9. 2003 to 2006 blaster axle will bolt in all splines are the same! The older Blaster axles have a free floating brake rotor for the mechanical brake caliper. Not a bolt in axle!
  10. I prefer NOS it's way better then redbull. The wings seems to slow me down. lol
  11. If you put the temp gauge in the top radiator hose it's close to the engine temp. If its in the lower hose its the cooled of coolant from the rad which will be 20 to 40 degrees cooler depending on air flow and air temp so the gauge will be off what ever the temp drop was at the radiator.
  12. The upper radiator hose from the head is the hot coolant from the engine. The lower radiator hose is the cooled off coolant from the radiator to water pump.
  13. X 2 keep the fatties they are good pipes. I sold my CPIs and stuck with the fatties better all around pipe. All CPI pipes will do for you is make it rev longer with less low end. If you must try them get used pipes and you can sell them for the same price if you don't like them.
  14. When I install pipes. I clean all the pipe connections with brake clean. Then I only put the RTV on the male side so it only squishes out to the outside and not the inside causing a restriction inside the pipe. I like Toyota black FIPG the best it holds up to heat, looks beater then red high temp RTV. Seems like it has urethane strength to it. http://www.oemtoyotascionparts.com/00295-00103
  15. Now that you have got this far into your build. Lets do a little experiment remove the front shocks and connect the tie rods. Move the A Arms up and down. Take note what happens to the toe at the knuckle it goes in and out as you move the arms up and down. The arms and tie rod links need to be the same length so the toe stays the same as the arm go up and down. This is going to be a big problem when you go off a jump. In the air it's going to toe out and then when you land it toes in. Making the bike unstable. Same problem when braking into a corner it toes in. Then gas it out of the corner it toes out. Please take your kit off! I applaud you for building it. What ever you do get some tie rod links that are the length you need. The spacer setup is unsafe. You have a mill but no welder?
  16. Um ok! It was tuned! I love the CPI pipes fit and looks I spent the time tuning my bike. There is a give and take with every thing and a top end pipe will not have more low end torque over a lower end pipe. I'm not willing to give up all my low end for minimal gains on top. ( This was my bike and my set up and results may vary ). Was the tune with the FMF pipes any good before the CPIs ?
  17. I have a 4mil dune port with 35mm carbs, 165lb comp and FMF fatty pipes. I do 70% dune and 30% drag. I like the way my FMF pipes t come on low and hard and rev out good i can come off the pipe on a dune and give it gas and get back on the pipe with out shifting down or slipping the clutch most of the time. I also can ride around with my kids at slow speed and have all torque I need. So i read all the post that say CPI all the way! Great mid /top with over-rev. Like all banshee owners I need some CPI pipes. ( I like how they look and sound ) So I find some for a great price and i pick them up. I go out to the dunes for the weekend with my awesome new pipes and get them all tuned in. Did some drag racing against my friend / competitor seems to have the same top end power as the FMFs just later with more over-rev thats flat. So on the hill drag no improvement against other bike maybe if I geared it for more rpm slight improvement but it was in the meat of the pipe. So lets go hit the dunes to get the full experience of the CPIs they will rev way longer on top but its flat no pull so you end up shifting at the same rpm range as the FMFs. At lower rpm the CPIs have no torque so your slipping clutch to get on the pipe. If on a hill and you get off the pipe clutch and or shifting down. With my FMFs i can roll on the gas and ride a wheelie smooth power with the CPI need to time it. In my don't no crap humble opinion. If you don't have a drag bike and want good all around performance don't get the in frame drag pipes they are what they are DRAG PIPES!!!!! Get the T5s or any other all around pipe.
  18. Sorry http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132925
  19. Yes! Here is a link with lots of port info hope it helps goggle it if you don't understand terms used.
  20. http://m1311.photobucket.com/albums/lowery_3?newest=1 Or just click on newest album at bottom of the page on last link. Looks like an ok trail / dune port. Need photos of transfer ports you also can measure from top of the cylinder to port tops this will also help.
  21. Ok long version lets say you got the supercharger on the bike working carburetor is mounted to the supercharger (So supercharger is sucking through the carburetor) The carburetor is now a valve for the supercharger closed its under vacuum trying to make boost at idle. (Note gas is being compressed and heated bye the supercharger). Getting it to idle wont be a problem but at 3000 RPM and you open the carburetor up you have 10Lbs of boost or more now your 350 cc is like a 700 cc engine a normal pipe is not up to this task. The 10Lbs of boost in the crank case gets amplified when the piston compresses it more. So now the pipe will need a sonic wave in the chamber strong enough to stuff gas back in cylinder. Now it revs to 10,000 rpm and 15lbs boost. I hope your jetting and pipe are in good tune she may melt down at this point. When off boost its going to be a dog because the engine is a 350 cc again and the pipe is tuned for boost or 700cc I don't see how a normal expansion chamber and stinger can handle all the low to high boost with out some kind of valve on the stinger to change the back pressure in the expansion chamber. Turbos make there own back pressure when it spools more boost more back pressure in the pipe. That's my $.02 hope this helps some one.
  22. I understand how 2 strokes work and pipes i was into snowmobiles for years had a turbo sled. So like all motor heads I want more like a supercharger no turbo lag. When I did research into superchargers on 2 strokes the problem was getting the pipe to work with the charger. To get good power you need 12 to 20 psi think of the nightmare tuning that pipe and jetting. Here is a link http://www.snowmobileforum.com/engine-drivetrain/67972-supercharged-2-stroke-sleds.html From what I got out of it is they have a valve on the stinger.
  23. How about a valve on the stinger that senses boost and exhaust PSI to keep back pressure proper in the pipe.
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