lockout clutch problems

[sek2dts]

got a question for you guys, i am having problems with my lockout when i am shifting. the clutch engauges fine with no slipping at all and when i get on it there also no slipping but as soon as i shift and go to get back on it it just doesnt deliver anything like the clutch isnt even engauged but when i ease off the throttle all the way and get back on it then it hooks up and go's. i can put it and 5th gear at low rpms and ride it all the way out with no slipping at all just when i shift it. i can't figure it out, i put stiffer springs in and it didnt work. i am thinking maybe heavier weights on the fingers maybe but i am not sure. has this happened to any of u?

 

setup- 10mm-68mmcub,edc clutch with springs,lock out, side cut gears( i know i need a overide).

[shanYE west]

Might have some other issues goin on in there. If the clutch is new and everything is adjusted properly and oil level is good... whats the condition of the rest of the clutch componets? how old is the pressure plate?

Edited May 11, 2008 by Fouledout421

[locogato11283]

shouldnt matter what springs you have in there. if that loclout is working properly it shouldnt slip. i have a 10mm cub and its never slipped with my lockout.

 

are you sure its just not the powerband kickin in making it feel like its not going anywhere cuz youre spinning the tires? what is the rest of your setup? swingarm, tires, gearing, rider weight..

[sek2dts]

shouldnt matter what springs you have in there. if that loclout is working properly it shouldnt slip. i have a 10mm cub and its never slipped with my lockout.

 

are you sure its just not the powerband kickin in making it feel like its not going anywhere cuz youre spinning the tires? what is the rest of your setup? swingarm, tires, gearing, rider weight..

 

that would be pretty crazy if it is spinning but it doesnt feel like that. +6 swinger, i only ride in the sand so when i test it on the street i use stock rims and tires, stock gearing, 185lbs.

 

 

 

Might have some other issues goin on in there. If the clutch is new and everything is adjusted properly and oil level is good... whats the condition of the rest of the clutch componets? how old is the pressure plate?

 

This post has been edited by Fouledout421: Today, 04:33 PM

 

when i took it apart twice the fibers looked good, no glazing or ecessive heat marks on cluch or pressure plate.

[STINKYDELUXE]

what tires are you running? are you sure some of what you are feeling isn't spinning tires? thats not a little motor you have there :thumbsup:

[_Hex*]

check adjustment, if you have stock get the pancake/clutchsaver bearing kit, check clutchbasket for play in between the basket and basket gear those are all factors in clutch wear

[dajogejr]

Your springs decide how hard it hooks low speed/engine RPMs, the lockout dictates how hard it locks at higher RPMs.

I've used two different type lockups on my 10 mil cub on an OLD clutch...I think you've either got a traction problem or an adjustment problem.

[400catdriver]

I'd try putting OEM plates, spacers and springs back in it and see how it does. I've never had any luck with after market plates at all.

[sek2dts]

i do have the pancake bearing in and just noticed that clutch lever perch adjustment is all the way backed out to the end. the bracket just about lines up perfectly with the arrow on the case. think the pancake bearing needs better adjustment? i am using stock wheels and tires on pavement. this is my first big motor so i am not to experienced, havent ridden on or knew anybody that had one in my area but i have a hard time believing this thing is that powerfull to spin hard enough where it feels like i am in neutral just reving it inbetween gears. there was no play in the basket also. thanks for the replies any idea's u throw at me i am willing to try as i am stumped as to why this is happening.

[dajogejr]

Add an additional steel in the middle somewhere....has always worked for me.

 

Hell yes on stock ties on pavement it can spin that hard. With a 6 over arm, my 250 lb ass and holeshot XCRs on grass I blazed the tires with no lockup and a stock tranny....

I thought it would hook good on long grass with knobbies....I was very, very wrong.

[sek2dts]

Add an additional steel in the middle somewhere....has always worked for me.

 

Hell yes on stock ties on pavement it can spin that hard. With a 6 over arm, my 250 lb ass and holeshot XCRs on grass I blazed the tires with no lockup and a stock tranny....

I thought it would hook good on long grass with knobbies....I was very, very wrong.

 

haha forgive me for being a dumbass what do u mean add an additional steel in the middle somewhere? i give tons of respect to anyone who has a bigger motor setup cause these thinks are like owning a little 9 sec car. parts either work or they break, these motors find the weakest link pretty fast. i just cant wait till i am perfectly dialed in.

Edited May 12, 2008 by sek2dts

[dajogejr]

Unless you're asking which end do you put the spark plug and which end do you put the drain plug....you're not asking a dumb question.

That's what we're here for.

 

I put an extra steel plate in the middle of the pack. In other words, it goes steel, fiber, steel, fiber, etc.

 

I the middle, like after the 3 or 4th steel, I go fiber, steel, steel, fiber, steel.....

 

readjust the pancake bearing/clutch rod arm after you do that. You'll get better pressure and a better grab on the clutch. Extra steel is what a lot of guys use.

 

I hear you on the bigger motor. I don't care if the bolt holes line up, nothing is bolt on...there's always a certain amount of adjustment, tweaking, etc., that has to be done.....

[sek2dts]

Unless you're asking which end do you put the spark plug and which end do you put the drain plug....you're not asking a dumb question.

That's what we're here for.

 

I put an extra steel plate in the middle of the pack. In other words, it goes steel, fiber, steel, fiber, etc.

 

I the middle, like after the 3 or 4th steel, I go fiber, steel, steel, fiber, steel.....

 

readjust the pancake bearing/clutch rod arm after you do that. You'll get better pressure and a better grab on the clutch. Extra steel is what a lot of guys use.

 

I hear you on the bigger motor. I don't care if the bolt holes line up, nothing is bolt on...there's always a certain amount of adjustment, tweaking, etc., that has to be done.....

 

thank u man ill let u know how this works out. i really appreciate the help.

[dajogejr]

My man, I've been there and done that over the last few years, 4 mil cub on gas to my current 10 mil cub on alky...it's always something...promise!

[2001Stroker]

i am using stock wheels and tires on pavement. this is my first big motor so i am not to experienced, havent ridden on or knew anybody that had one in my area but i have a hard time believing this thing is that powerfull to spin hard enough where it feels like i am in neutral just reving it inbetween gears.

Don't have a hard time believing it. My 4mill will shred the tires on the pavement, all the way through 5th gear. I thought my clutch was slipping, also. Then, I let my brother ride it, to see what he thought. When he took off down the street, I could literally see the smoke billowing from the tires when he was ripping on it. That was with my old Holeshots and stock rims. I wouldn't dare try it with my new tires/rims. I'm sure that 10mill wouldn't have a problem doing the same. That's alot of motor, man.