IDLE KIT

[dajogejr]

Yep...they should.

You probably have the lubricant you need, WD40, liquid wrench....any of those work fine.

They sell tap oil, but to be 100% honest, the aluminum on the carbs is so soft, WD will be fine.

 

MAKE SURE you grind the bosses flat first, then drill and tap them. The locknut will have to lay flat, and the boss is at an angle from the factory. Take about 1/8 inch off...you'll be fine.

[T-daddy]

Yep...they should.

You probably have the lubricant you need, WD40, liquid wrench....any of those work fine.

They sell tap oil, but to be 100% honest, the aluminum on the carbs is so soft, WD will be fine.

 

MAKE SURE you grind the bosses flat first, then drill and tap them. The locknut will have to lay flat, and the boss is at an angle from the factory. Take about 1/8 inch off...you'll be fine.

 

 

yep i have wd40 ill use that :cool:

will do thanks

for the tips DAJ

[T-daddy]

yep i have wd40 ill use that :cool:

will do thanks

for the tips DAJ

 

 

what do u use to file down the carb boss

[dajogejr]

An angle die grinder or grinding wheel will work.

[BellicoseBanshee]

what do u use to file down the carb boss

I used a medium and then fine file to do mine... It did not take that long to file down the aluminum boss. I also made a depth gage to ensure the bosses were filed down equally and to ensure the depth was 19mm on each side. Make sure the surface is perpendicular to the hole so the lock nut will contact the whole surface of the idle screw boss.

[T-daddy]

I used a medium and then fine file to do mine... It did not take that long to file down the aluminum boss. I also made a depth gage to ensure the bosses were filed down equally and to ensure the depth was 19mm on each side. Make sure the surface is perpendicular to the hole so the lock nut will contact the whole surface of the idle screw boss.

 

 

i finished the installation of the tors it was pretty damn easy the hardess part was getting the airbox off to get the carbs

 

but i have another issue it has a sort of popping sound coming from the pipes not loud but u can here it

wat causes that could it be bad plug caps or plugs

[FireHead]

but i have another issue it has a sort of popping sound coming from the pipes not loud but u can here it

wat causes that could it be bad plug caps or plugs

You could have an air leak which is causing the lean condition and the popping.

[T-daddy]

You could have an air leak which is causing the lean condition and the popping.

 

could the leak from were the pipe connects to the cylinder cause this

because wen i rev it up smoke comes from a little spot near the pipe oring

do i need no rings and springs

[FireHead]

could the leak from were the pipe connects to the cylinder cause this

because wen i rev it up smoke comes from a little spot near the pipe oring

do i need no rings and springs

No. If you have popping, it's more than likely a misfire or back fire, not an exhaust leak.

[airtite]

Hi Guys

 

I hate to seem lazy but the search doesnt work so well for me (seems all the words I use are 4 letters), does anyone have a link to a post explaining what I need to do this idle kit conversion? I just pulled the tors carb tops off yesterday and I was just going to adjust the idling using the non tors tops, thought thats how the tors tops did it?

 

Thanks

[T-daddy]

No. If you have popping, it's more than likely a misfire or back fire, not an exhaust leak.

 

 

 

and what causes an mis fire or backfire

[gregrob]

Hi Guys

 

I hate to seem lazy but the search doesnt work so well for me (seems all the words I use are 4 letters), does anyone have a link to a post explaining what I need to do this idle kit conversion? I just pulled the tors carb tops off yesterday and I was just going to adjust the idling using the non tors tops, thought thats how the tors tops did it?

 

Thanks

 

 

There's nothing to adjust in the non-tors top. They're simply a cap for the carb. You need to drill and tap the for the idle screw to hold the slide open enough to allow the engine to idle. It is a tapered screw that allows you to adjust the slide for each carb up and down.

 

 

Mine had to go into the left side of the left carb and right side of the right carb. I got the TORS delete kit from Jeff at fast and came with everything.