theshee Posted January 26, 2008 Report Posted January 26, 2008 thats what we are thinking... should be a good test for it. Quote
sheefreak Posted January 26, 2008 Report Posted January 26, 2008 I would say if youre if really not a hard dragger, then you really dont need the override. I dont have one on my cub, and I drag the shit out of it, dont seem too miss it at all. JMO Curious as to wether or not you have ridden a bike w/one? Quote
FireHead Posted January 26, 2008 Report Posted January 26, 2008 i would tend to disagree. there are plenty of dune bikes that pull alot of power that need to run lockups. this makes shifting a pain. And because of it beng a pain the duneable is the remedy for it. Word. Duneables are very reliable as long as they are put together by some of the leading names in the industry. If they are made by some weirdo with a wood lathe and stick welder, they probably aren't going to last long. Additionally, they are not that easy of thing to make and have function well. There is a big differnce between a setup that is well built and one that is not. It took me a very long time to figure out how to make one that did not blow up in one way or another, granted I was starting from scratch and picture I found on the internet. :geek: Quote
rubberneck Posted January 26, 2008 Author Report Posted January 26, 2008 This year will be a good test for a duneable tranny. There is a 1-5 in my bros cheetah hill bike. When we climb at walden you are in and out of the throttle the whole way up the shoots. If it lasts the season at walden i will be sold on them, time will tell. Im not convinced about them, thats why I put a stock tranny in my hill bike, but if my bros lasts, i may reconsider next year. I didnt have one in my 421 cub and didnt really need one, it shifted smooth as can be. I know one guy that doesnt need an overide is Bigred, that dude can shift a bike so damn fast it isnt even funny. Never seen a guy shift a regular tranny like him. Hmmm, now I really dont know what to do. I really like climbing hills too, and love it when you get yourself stuck down in a hole and have to work to get it out. You know what I mean, working around obstacles, up shift down shift, clutching it. I just think that is fun. i dont want to get down in a hole and blow the trans up just for quicker shifts. i dont think I will be making enough power at my current plans to NEED a lockup. I just though the clutchless shifting would be the shit. I am going to start making a shopping list and then shopping around for who i want to do my port work. I want to build this thing myself though. thanks for the opinions guys you rock. Quote
HotCarl Posted January 26, 2008 Report Posted January 26, 2008 Duneables are very reliable as long as they are put together by some of the leading names in the industry. If they are made by some weirdo with a wood lathe and stick welder, they probably aren't going to last long. I guess this counts me out It seems to me that with all the people that dune them you would hear more of them blowing up. most of the time I'll pull the clutch at the top of a hill, but with a lot of smaller hills you let off to crest the hill and then get back on it, I would think that is was defines a dunable transmistion, because I believe that is how a lot of people dune. If the trans blew up doing that it shouldn't be named a dunable trans. Quote
rubberneck Posted January 26, 2008 Author Report Posted January 26, 2008 So if I dont decide to do the override, I want to do as much as i can to make her shift as well as possible. I already have the modded shift star and also a shift pro (not installed yet). I have seen it mentioned on here, I believe it was by bigred about putting bearings on the shift drum. How is this mod done? What bearings are you using. Do I need to machine the drum or the cases or both? I Have a machine shop, so with instructions and the bearing #s could i do this myself. Also what does side cutting the gears do. How is this done. Thanks. Quote
FireHead Posted January 26, 2008 Report Posted January 26, 2008 So if I dont decide to do the override, I want to do as much as i can to make her shift as well as possible. I already have the modded shift star and also a shift pro (not installed yet). I have seen it mentioned on here, I believe it was by bigred about putting bearings on the shift drum. How is this mod done? What bearings are you using. Do I need to machine the drum or the cases or both? I Have a machine shop, so with instructions and the bearing #s could i do this myself. Also what does side cutting the gears do. How is this done. Thanks. It's not bearings on the drum................it's bearings on the fingers of the shift forks, that are the way to go. :thumbsup: Quote
Bansh-eman Posted January 26, 2008 Report Posted January 26, 2008 (edited) actually mark you can put a bearing on the drum. i have one. got it from alba. they buy them from yakkey racing (sp?) Edited January 26, 2008 by Bansh-eman Quote
FireHead Posted January 27, 2008 Report Posted January 27, 2008 actually mark you can put a bearing on the drum. i have one. got it from alba. they buy them from yakkey racing (sp?) Oh yeah, I was thinking of putting one somewhere else on the drum. Sorry for the brain fart. Cascade and a bunch of other folks also sell those bearings. They are a nice thing to put on the first time you wplit your cases. Flaming performance is about right when it some to Alba.................those guys suck. :biggrin: Quote
Bansh-eman Posted January 27, 2008 Report Posted January 27, 2008 Oh yeah, I was thinking of putting one somewhere else on the drum. Sorry for the brain fart. Cascade and a bunch of other folks also sell those bearings. They are a nice thing to put on the first time you wplit your cases. Flaming performance is about right when it some to Alba.................those guys suck. :biggrin: lol i kinda chuckled when i poted that pict and saw that... Quote
rubberneck Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Posted January 27, 2008 It's not bearings on the drum................it's bearings on the fingers of the shift forks, that are the way to go. :thumbsup: Firehead, Please elaborate if you would. Who does this, or is this some magic that you did yourself. I am looking to do everything I can when I go through this thing. Quote
FireHead Posted January 27, 2008 Report Posted January 27, 2008 Firehead, Please elaborate if you would. Who does this, or is this some magic that you did yourself. I am looking to do everything I can when I go through this thing. In the aftermarket realm of Banshee parts I think Dan Hull, K&T, Dave Moore, and possibly a few others are having shift forks with bearings in the fingers ,ade somewhere. An RZ350 fork has a similar feature and they are direct bolt-in parts on a Banshee. The only down side to the RZ350 forks is that the bearings in the fingers are less than stellar (more of a bushing than anything else). However, IMO, they are still better than OEM Banshee forks. As for magic that I have done myself, that last shift fork design I conjured had very nice shielded roller bearing in the fingers and the bearing axle was supported on both sides of the bearing. This design was Banshee inspired, but would not bolt right in to Banshee cases. The design was for a Banshee-esque triple cylinder engine that was mostly one-off in it's design. Given a testing and manufacturing outlet, I would be willing to meld this design into a Banshee application and basically give it away, but I think it might be a product that is too far outside of a normal racers budget. :geek: Quote
kawiking Posted January 27, 2008 Report Posted January 27, 2008 id love to have a override. just to try it out. Quote
bansheefreak Posted January 27, 2008 Report Posted January 27, 2008 id love to have a override. just to try it out. if your getting a cub i would be looking into getting a dunable... their nice.. but i wouldnt suggest flattracking with one been there done that few shift forks later... lots of backloading when you go into corners wot and let off hit the brakes and use motor to help you slow down.. last one to brake in the corner and first one out wins races.. Quote
rubberneck Posted January 27, 2008 Author Report Posted January 27, 2008 if your getting a cub i would be looking into getting a dunable... their nice.. but i wouldnt suggest flattracking with one been there done that few shift forks later... lots of backloading when you go into corners wot and let off hit the brakes and use motor to help you slow down.. last one to brake in the corner and first one out wins races.. Yeah, see this is what I am concerned about. You see, when my buddies and I "Dune," it is more like a race through the hills. LOL We really enjoy hauling ass in and out of the big rollers and I do find myself downshifting hard in the turns just the way you are describing. I need to decide what to do. Since I have now stretched and widened this bike and now will be adding some significant HP, this bike is not really suitable for the dirt trails that I like riding. With that in mind I am considering buying a 450 for the dirt and dedicating my banshee to the sand 100% If i get the 450, I wont be AS concerned with reliablity and will probably do the override for shits and giggles. At least I would have the 450 to play with if I have problems with the banshee. To now I have been hesitant to get too exotic fearing that i would drive 9 hours to my favorite dunes only to have the shee break after a day or 2. If i have the spare bike, I might as well go balls deep into the shee with the goodies. Lots of decisions. thanks for your time guys. Quote
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