civicfrk1 Posted February 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 ok the idle screws werent in , i was mistaken. theyre basically all the way out. but the knob by the thumb throttle , that holds the cable , was screwed all the way out , so it was pullin the cable like crazy.now it holds idle but barely. n if i give it gas quick when idling it dies. its still getting that power stutter at like 1/2 to full. but i was told that im rich at 300. ill try 280. running Castor 927 @ 32:1. its pretty smokey. lol. how many turns out should the air screw be? i did a comp check again and im at 120 each side so that hasnt changed lol. any suggestions appreciated . im happy to have my bike somewhat running again. i still havent had a chance to fully enjoy my new topend Anyone out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atvfreestylekid Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 Trust me when I say this. Ditch that piece of shit tors system. TORS T= Take O= Off R=retarded S=Shit Here is a tors elimination kit It will be much easier to adjust the idle and sync the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civicfrk1 Posted February 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 Trust me when I say this. Ditch that piece of shit tors system. TORS T= Take O= Off R=retarded S=Shit Here is a tors elimination kit It will be much easier to adjust the idle and sync the carbs. its all disconnected right now. the 2 plugs comin from carbs and the one comin from the box. i took off the airbox LID and the actual air filter . and WOW it fucking runs like a raped ape. lol. what should i do? my air screws are out 1 1/2 turns. im going to buy a K&n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atvfreestylekid Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 So what is it doing without the filter and lid? still not run right after 2nd gear? Oh, do not ride this thing without a filter. Your pretty, new topend will go bye, bye. Do you have a fuel filter on the quad? If your fuel line is long enough, take the filter off and see if it helps. It sounds like it's leaning out. Take off the seat and filter and look at the carb slides through the filter opening. there should be a small gap under each slide if the slides are not in backwards. once your looking at the slides, slowly push the throttle lever and see if both carbs slide up at exactly the same time. I do not recomend riding the machine until you figure out what is making it do what it's doing. If you do and it is leaning out, kiss your top end good bye. possibly the crank too since the oil in the fuel lubricates all of the crank/rod bearings too. Let us know what's going on as of now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 Run Castor 40-1. If your getting a bog @ 1/2 throttle raise the needle (Lower the clip) one position and try again. Take the white plastic part of the filter and cut off all the supports so you just have the base piece and so that it looks like the NOSS Billet adapter for the K&N. Drill 2 holes into the flat part of it and through the front of the airbox to permanently mount it (Zip ties or screws) And silicone (RTV works fine) your new imitation billet adapter to the front of the box (how it would normaly attach but pulled tightly against the front of the box). Just make sure there are no leaks. The K&N filter can now clamp on to this plastic piece without buying the Billet adapter plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civicfrk1 Posted February 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 So what is it doing without the filter and lid? still not run right after 2nd gear? Oh, do not ride this thing without a filter. Your pretty, new topend will go bye, bye. Do you have a fuel filter on the quad? If your fuel line is long enough, take the filter off and see if it helps. It sounds like it's leaning out. Take off the seat and filter and look at the carb slides through the filter opening. there should be a small gap under each slide if the slides are not in backwards. once your looking at the slides, slowly push the throttle lever and see if both carbs slide up at exactly the same time. I do not recomend riding the machine until you figure out what is making it do what it's doing. If you do and it is leaning out, kiss your top end good bye. possibly the crank too since the oil in the fuel lubricates all of the crank/rod bearings too. Let us know what's going on as of now. without the filter and lid it runs perfect. yeah im not riding it like this. i just rode it up my paved road for 2 quick runs and put it away after i made sure it ran good. the carbs are basically sync'd , my mechanic sync'd them last time.i gotta raise the idle though because its really really low. will adjusting the air screw make a differnce??? because it was running fine before.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atvfreestylekid Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 It's prolly running lean now. turn the air screw only 1 turn out. Maybe you won't burn it up then. But do not run it much without a filter. But the old filter may have just been dirty and stopped up. Do both sides smoke now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumby6t9 Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 If it "runs great" without the lid and filter then your jetted too rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civicfrk1 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 If it "runs great" without the lid and filter then your jetted too rich. gumby says rich atvfreestylekid says lean. ummmmmmmmm WHAAA?! lol. i think it IS rich. i pulled the plugs out , and theyre nice and WET , pretty oily lol. im going to go down to 280 mains. im at 300 right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumby6t9 Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Yep. Rich. lid off = more air = runs good because your rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civicfrk1 Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Yep. Rich. lid off = more air = runs good because your rich. ok so ill go back to 280 mains. do i leave the air screw at 1.5 turns out??? and as for the idle its REALLY low . holds idle for 3 secs or so but since its so low it just dies out..... if i screw in the idle screws evenly , it shouldnt affect the carb sync , correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosBanshee44 Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 So your bike sounds like running water? :shrug: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05Special Posted February 24, 2008 Report Share Posted February 24, 2008 make sure you put on the little rubber hose between the two carbs.. I forgot to put it on after a build and was scratching my head for hours before I figured it out... It was doing the same exact thing that you are describing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmd0346 Posted February 25, 2008 Report Share Posted February 25, 2008 With the mods listed I would say you are lean. What is your elevation? For referance I ran 400 mains with my setup. They were rich but they worked the best in summer and winter climate. Probably should have been a 380 to be perfect. I cant see a ported Basnhee not reving out on a 300 main. I had a similar problem with mine. Mine turned out to be electrical. I changed out my (damaged) fly wheel/stator and i went away. It would rev out ok in 1st and 2nd but would break up bad after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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